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Ordered my Zone 4.5 Lift


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I didn’t quite finish today. I had a lot to do at work and was only able to work a couple hours on it. Hope fully tomorrow. I did drop 2 rims off to get mounted this afternoon to check for clearance, although I didn’t quite make it that far.196dd62477374b8d05a1ab70c44ab483.jpg


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I am really pleased with the outcome. I have to find one of my Center caps in the morning that the tire guy left off, but otherwise it went pretty smooth.

I only have 15 miles on it but it drives pretty good, with only minimal tire noise. It still has the power down low and it holds gears better than I thought it would. It does not have the launch power it had before, and it doesn’t have quite what it had before when you step on while rolling, but I wouldn’t have it without the lift.

The install was not too bad, I just kept having to stop every few minutes and take calls or run to town for work, so it took a little longer than I would have liked. My brother and I installed it and it isn’t bad at all. We referenced the videos on YouTube from Realtruck and Havoc(the lift is a Zone design) and it was pretty straight forward.

The only complaints if I had any would be that I think they should add a short piece of hose/mend it, t the kit for the front diff vent, and the UCA ball joint but is hard to get to(I tried to find an 18 mm stubby but that is tough, so we took a O2 sensor 18 and chip sawed it to make a stubby...so maybe include it.

One of the worst parts was all of the wiring connectors, and the brake line brackets that are crimped on the lines.


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The 35x11.50x20 Ridge Grapplers are close, but don’t rub anywhere in the fenders or more importantly, on the stamped steel UCA(neither the front side nor the tip at the wheel side of the ball joint). It is close at the ball joint, but there is a 1/4 inch at the worst angle with the wheel locked to one side. The tires measure out a little shorter than I expected when mounted, and are approx 33.75” tall front and back. I love the width even if I could fit a 12.50 wide tire without a wheel spacer(which I have none front or rear), I still would go with this width as it shows a more square profile.


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dd0c1dffb0db80c6f8b9b76fdd851219.jpgde0082c257f69b0e9694d3971748fdb8.jpg

Before and after

 

The wife’s first comment was, “It looks like a monster truck!”

 

It sits about even with my Tundra with a 2.5” leveling kit and 285/65R18s. I parked beside a 17 model Duramax with 295/60R20 at the Mexican restaurant tonight and it is about even with it. It feels slightly taller than my LML Duramax 14 model, but I had 285/60R20 duratracs on it.

 

 

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The back is half an inch higher than the front. I love the whole setup. No rubbing even in reverse. I haven’t taken it off-road to check to see if flexing will rub but I doubt it will.


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I did quite the amount of research on kits before deciding on this one, and I would like to thank many of you who helped me either directly, or through your posts.

My brother and I installed this kit, and as I said before, isn’t too bad to do as long as you have time, tools, and 4 hands! I would like to share a few things that I learned through the installation process that may help others in a decision.

I wanted to run the factory wheels. Not because of money, but just because I really like them. The +27 offset(or 6.01) had me worried because the kit says it needs 5.75 bs to clear the wheel/tire combo. Throw in the stamped steel UCA and you have very tight tolerances. I can tell you my setup with 11.50 wide tires cleats but not by more than .25”, but they don’t touch. I found several installs with factory 22s with stamped steel UCA and they were running 12.50 wide tires with no trouble, which I couldn’t figure out, but now I have. A 22 pushes the tire bulge away from the contact point, which is how they can do it.

I saw a couple trucks running stock 20 wheels and 12.50s on stamped steel and decided to sneak a peak, and found that they had taken a grinder to the nub on the UCA(scary), and another was running .25” spacers on the front(still with a little grinding.

I didn’t want to grind away the fidelity of my suspension, nor run a spacer on my front wheels, especially a non hub centric one.

I ordered (my tire shop)295/60R20 tires and these 35/11.50/20 to compare them, and the 295s are about half an inch shorter and about .25” wider, and 5 lbs a tire lighter(16/32 rather than 18/32 on the non metric).

I hope this may at least help the next poor OCD person like myself find peace. Thanks.


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  • 1 year later...
Did you add rear spacers to this ?


Not In those photos but a week later I did add 2” BORA spacers to match the front width increase from the lift. Here was some current photos, week prior to be totaled out.

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  • 5 months later...
On ‎12‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 7:46 PM, AgDoctor said:

I did quite the amount of research on kits before deciding on this one, and I would like to thank many of you who helped me either directly, or through your posts.

My brother and I installed this kit, and as I said before, isn’t too bad to do as long as you have time, tools, and 4 hands! I would like to share a few things that I learned through the installation process that may help others in a decision.

I wanted to run the factory wheels. Not because of money, but just because I really like them. The +27 offset(or 6.01) had me worried because the kit says it needs 5.75 bs to clear the wheel/tire combo. Throw in the stamped steel UCA and you have very tight tolerances. I can tell you my setup with 11.50 wide tires cleats but not by more than .25”, but they don’t touch. I found several installs with factory 22s with stamped steel UCA and they were running 12.50 wide tires with no trouble, which I couldn’t figure out, but now I have. A 22 pushes the tire bulge away from the contact point, which is how they can do it.

I saw a couple trucks running stock 20 wheels and 12.50s on stamped steel and decided to sneak a peak, and found that they had taken a grinder to the nub on the UCA(scary), and another was running .25” spacers on the front(still with a little grinding.

I didn’t want to grind away the fidelity of my suspension, nor run a spacer on my front wheels, especially a non hub centric one.

I ordered (my tire shop)295/60R20 tires and these 35/11.50/20 to compare them, and the 295s are about half an inch shorter and about .25” wider, and 5 lbs a tire lighter(16/32 rather than 18/32 on the non metric).

I hope this may at least help the next poor OCD person like myself find peace. Thanks.


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This is awesome information. Im totally OCD.  Having my Zone 4.5" lift put on this week (well already done, but still at the shop).  Tires go on tomorrow.  Toyo MT 35x12.5r22

 

I feel like I did enough research to know they will fit, but I guess we will find out tomorrow.  The shop even called me and said, "the instruction said max tire is 33 inch." lol

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