Jump to content

2016 Silverado ltz oem led taillights harness

Julio13
 Share

Recommended Posts

DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
Posted
On ‎4‎/‎10‎/‎2018 at 12:16 PM, pgamboa said:

It is 2-part.  If you have a 2016+ Truck, and get 2016+ Tail Lights, you will need the factory tail light harness for the LED Tail Light.  You'll need to swap the harnesses out.  You will end up with Hyperflash.  The gen5diy harness is simply an inline harness that plugs in between the factory harness and the connection under the bed.  

 

The reason you need the factory harnesses is because the new Tail Light only has 1 input connector for the entire assembly and 1 input of the reverse bulb.

Do you happen to know which color wires would need the resistors on the factory LTZ harness? I figure it would be about half the cost to buy an extra LTZ harness set and then tap in with my own resistors versus buying the gen5diy harness that does the same thing with an extension harness...

  • Replies 36
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Julio13
Julio13

I’m getting a great deal on a set of the led ltz taillights but the do not include any wire harness I’m looking to buy the gen5diy harness to make them work but it still requires the original wires co

pgamboa
pgamboa

LTZ Tail Light Harnesses 84233591 - $19.41 84233592 - $22.34 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CKrado
CKrado

Got my LTZ lights installed last night after getting them smoked. Love the looks of these lights compared to the lower model non-LED lights Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted Images

ChevyRoofer Senior Enthusiast

ChevyRoofer

Posted
Posted
Do you happen to know which color wires would need the resistors on the factory LTZ harness? I figure it would be about half the cost to buy an extra LTZ harness set and then tap in with my own resistors versus buying the gen5diy harness that does the same thing with an extension harness...


Don’t know what color off the top of my head, but just do a voltage test when using your blinkers to see which wire is causing the hyper flash.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
Posted

One last question - I'm assuming only one resistor on each side is all that is needed for the LTZ harness/LTZ LED tail lights. I would like to use the VLED resistors. Would 6ohm/25w be adequate? They also have a 3ohm/50w resistor... 

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, DEV1ST8R said:

Do you happen to know which color wires would need the resistors on the factory LTZ harness? I figure it would be about half the cost to buy an extra LTZ harness set and then tap in with my own resistors versus buying the gen5diy harness that does the same thing with an extension harness...

If I recall, green is the turn signal, black is ground.

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, DEV1ST8R said:

One last question - I'm assuming only one resistor on each side is all that is needed for the LTZ harness/LTZ LED tail lights. I would like to use the VLED resistors. Would 6ohm/25w be adequate? They also have a 3ohm/50w resistor... 

For rear tail lights, you'll want a 3 ohm.  I use 3 ohm - 100 watt resistor for my builds.  They've been running strong for over 6 months now.

  • Like 1
DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, pgamboa said:

For rear tail lights, you'll want a 3 ohm.  I use 3 ohm - 100 watt resistor for my builds.  They've been running strong for over 6 months now.

Thank you Sir!

CKrado Enthusiast

CKrado

Posted
Posted

Got my LTZ lights installed last night after getting them smoked. Love the looks of these lights compared to the lower model non-LED lights3942a8b2df5d4d0b9a2efed1179d0785.jpg044a2958edfa36d30f321cc4d199c48c.jpgbaa53f95777bcc812d0efc37158961a5.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
Posted

Is the top square, above the reverse light square, just a reflector? Or does it light up with the brakes?

CKrado Enthusiast

CKrado

Posted
Posted
Is the top square, above the reverse light square, just a reflector? Or does it light up with the brakes?
Just a reflector

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  • 2 months later...
RACERX7775 Enthusiast

RACERX7775

Posted
Posted

If you get the adapters from gen5, opt for the double resistor. It uses 2 resistors per side and splits the load evenly. They get so damn hot if you use only 1 resistor. I just made a mounting plate so that way they dont touch anything.

15333031666113440181002070309295.jpg

20180803_093400.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Abe879 Enthusiast

Abe879

Posted
Posted
For rear tail lights, you'll want a 3 ohm.  I use 3 ohm - 100 watt resistor for my builds.  They've been running strong for over 6 months now.



Hey Phil, are those resistors still working out for you. I have one 3 ohm 50 watt resistor on each taillight and keep switching them out every few months because they overheat and burn out. Is there a higher quality resistor I should use or should I just put on the 3ohm 100 watt resistors?
  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted



Hey Phil, are those resistors still working out for you. I have one 3 ohm 50 watt resistor on each taillight and keep switching them out every few months because they overheat and burn out. Is there a higher quality resistor I should use or should I just put on the 3ohm 100 watt resistors?

Been using 3 ohm - 100 watt for almost 2 years now without issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
DEV1ST8R Enthusiast

DEV1ST8R

Posted
Posted

Take a look at VLEDS resistors. They’re pretty robust and have been working flawlessly in my front and rear signals. They barely even get warm to the touch...

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      You could try a used 1, they used that engine in the Astro vans, Plenty of them in the boneyard. Look for a wrecked or rotted 1 so the chance that it was scrapped for that reason and not a mechanical issue will be greater
    • KARNUT
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • Hoginedgewood
      MPG Surprise

      By Hoginedgewood · Posted

      That computer lies!
    • Tbhats2130
      2018 Silverado Console USB Port Not Working

      By Tbhats2130 · Posted

      My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...