Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
It's earlier in the thread.  He's trying to make room for a light bar behind the grille.
I go off road quite a bit and having the light bar behind the grill would be great. I don't want to install it on top of the windshield due to someone easily being able to steal it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Posted
7 hours ago, Armo325 said:

It's earlier in the thread.  He's trying to make room for a light bar behind the grille.

Sorry, I missed that. Thanks. 

  • Like 1
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 10 months later...
Posted (edited)
On 5/27/2018 at 9:10 AM, Armo325 said:

It's earlier in the thread.  He's trying to make room for a light bar behind the grille.

It can be done if you buy led light bars that aren’t deep. I have a 30” and a 20” installed.

4A0E9F75-E83C-482D-897C-F979D8DDB3B6.jpeg

F7DCCA57-B96E-4629-B808-801FF8C18830.jpeg

Edited by jaxsilverfox
  • Like 1
Posted
On 1/29/2018 at 4:10 PM, DenaliLegend said:

Has anyone had a problem with this, replacing the grille? I just purchased a new grille and want to install but now worried I might run into a problem. Here is the grill 

27023762_1736023849753315_2514904338691965312_o.jpg

Where did you get that emblem?!  I have been looking for this exact emblem for my trucks grill!!

Posted
9 hours ago, jaxsilverfox said:

It can be done if you buy led light bars that aren’t deep. I have a 30” and a 20” installed.

4A0E9F75-E83C-482D-897C-F979D8DDB3B6.jpeg

F7DCCA57-B96E-4629-B808-801FF8C18830.jpeg

What's the throw like on that top bar? I have a Diode Dynamics 6 inch bar where you have that one and it basically doubles the headlight output on high beams. I'd like to fit something wider in there though.

  • 5 months later...
Posted
On 5/1/2019 at 4:17 AM, jaxsilverfox said:

It can be done if you buy led light bars that aren’t deep. I have a 30” and a 20” installed.

4A0E9F75-E83C-482D-897C-F979D8DDB3B6.jpeg

F7DCCA57-B96E-4629-B808-801FF8C18830.jpeg

What brand are these light bars?

Posted

Not sure the brand. These are great for the flood portion and seem to light up everything in front of the truck. I’ll get some shots when I’m in the mountains end of month.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I have a 2019 high country and i am looking for a delete kit as well for the grill shutters. Any one out there making kits yet or know how to Rid of there shutters thanks.

  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 6/26/2018 at 6:15 AM, Jmiranda said:

Anyone know if there is a fuse for the shutters? Or where it connects?. Maybe removing the harness completely might do the trick.

Im not too sure about a fuse, but I can tell you removing the whole harness won’t help either lol, I tried that threw 2 codes 1 for poor shudder performance the other for the ambient temperature sensor. I removed the motor for the shudders and mounted it under the radiator support, and found another place to put the ambient sensor, but it’s still throwing a code

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/29/2018 at 1:17 PM, lapoolboy said:

I am on a mission to figure out how to remove the active grill shutter system from my truck without having to live with a CEL so I can install the RC 30" light bar behind the grill.

 

I have a Diablo i3 and can easily clear the code and reset the light, but it will just keep coming back.

 

I've read posts of folks hacking up the assembly and stowing away the motor with the stops glued to it?  This sounds too backwoods and unreliable for me.  There has to be another way.  Is this system controlled via the BCM?  If so, perhaps Chris White can hack the BCM to forget it had the shutters?  

 

The light bar sits at the very bottom of the shutter assembly.  I know the bottom two shutters can be removed easily, but guys are saying the bar still won't fit.  I assume it is the "center spine" hump running vertically in the middle of the assembly where the motor is located that is interfering with the bar?  Can just the lowermost portion of this hump be cut out to make room for the bar?

 

Let's brainstorm together and make this happen!

 

 

 

 

were you ever able to find a solution to this? I have a 2017 gmc sierra and I'm having the same problem I want a light bar but I don't wanna have to completely delete the shutters

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Is there any way to get rid of the CEL that comes on when you take this stupid thing off the truck? Canceling the code just makes it pop up again as soon as I turn the truck on

Posted
13 minutes ago, mcr217 said:

Is there any way to get rid of the CEL that comes on when you take this stupid thing off the truck? Canceling the code just makes it pop up again as soon as I turn the truck on

You need to keep the motor plugged in and rig it to still make the swing, no way around it. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Trucks 3 yrs old and got hit with CEL which was shutter defective. Actually had birds building nest in front of them 2 yrs in a round so now new system put in and more cats in neighborhood coz all the dead birds ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
    • when it's greyed out that is it's way of telling you that it's downloading the patch in the background. Eventually it will be fully downloaded and then it will prompt you at ignition shut down to run the update. I highly recommend doing the update once you get home and can run it a few times. I've had several issues with updates not going the first time around and I had to retry the update multiple times in my driveway before it was successful.   Some updates are huge and take awhile to download. You can help it by connecting to your home WiFi and keep the truck on service mode for the ignition and keep it alive for awhile on a battery charger too. There are specs it needs to be in for updating such as a full enough battery charge, no running ignition, etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...