LED light bar inside grill

TXGREEK · February 24, 2020

I hear you, but can the shutters be deleted, I understand they throw a code, can a tuner tune that out? I would prefer to have a large bar in there rather than a single row when/if I move to an active shutter truck one day. Seems like just about the most useless thing they could dream up to put in these trucks. Goes from +30c to -30c here and I have never needed a winter front on a GM gasser, or more air going into the rad in the summer. All my gas trucks stay around 101 degree winter or summer, towing or empty. Seems more of a PITA than a benefit.

I believe their purpose is for less drag, improving mpg’s lol. I would’ve completely deleted mine if the light bar I had installed still didn’t fit. All these are after thoughts to appease the EPA, nothing less and nothing more, just worthless additions.

Sorta like the stupid looking front bumpers on the GMC’s,

look like large USB Ports on the new trucks, vented to help dissipate drag LMAO!
They look like they cause drag not dissipate it.

Sent from Above

TXGREEK · February 24, 2020

They should’ve integrated a curved fog lights, not that Frankenstein design!

Sent from Above

L86 All Terrain · February 24, 2020

Thx TX. More reason to hang on my 2015 I guess. It is paid for after all. Kind of nice not paying $500 a month for a vehicle.

badge171 · February 25, 2020

If the shutter delete is what your after? Why can't you leave the shutter motor, or motors , in place, Also sensor's if any exist.And just remove the flaps . The move-able dam that blocks the air? Seems like this should not throw any codes ???, And give you what your looking for.

TXGREEK · February 27, 2020

If the shutter delete is what your after? Why can't you leave the shutter motor, or motors , in place, Also sensor's if any exist.And just remove the flaps . The move-able dam that blocks the air? Seems like this should not throw any codes ???, And give you what your looking for.

Someone on the forum tried just cutting the shutters and later set off codes. These damn trucks are so computerized just about anything will throw off a code, newer ones are supposed to be a nightmare. Personally, I’ve thought about completely removing them as I live in Texas and it does get hot here and my engine doesn’t need obstruction from receiving air. Again, I believe it’s supposed to be a mpg thing, less wind drag.

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badge171 · February 27, 2020

I'm for sure no computer wiz , but if there is a sensor telling the computer the air flow is interrupted. If the Dams are removed, And this throws a code. There has to be a high performance application out there that programs for full air flow.

Jon king · June 12, 2020

On 11/26/2018 at 12:24 PM, Ryan2017Z71 said:

Thanks, I am happy with it. I added nylon spacer between the brackets. I got the spacers from Lowes; the picture with the white bags are the spacers and longer bolts I purchased. The spacers were white, so I spray painted them black. I did have to trim a small section of the shutters to allow for the bolts to fit (picture 2). I also removed the shroud from the grille. I tried trimming it to allow it to fit around the brackets but realized it was only held in place by six clips. I also had to add a second hole in the Rough Country bracket that mounts to inside of the frame. The active shutters has an alignment pin that interfered with the bracket. I did have to cut out the vertical sections in the grille to let the light bar fit.

There is one section of the grille that is up against one of the bolt heads and I thought about trimming the grille more, but I was able to get it to fit.

Hope this helps and let me know if you have more questions. I'll be glad to help out.

Was wondering what the size of the brackets to mount on the grille, already have a led bar and I can’t find where to just buy the brackets

slj2008 · June 12, 2020

On 2/22/2020 at 4:49 PM, huntr1117 said:

I got tired of waiting on Rough Country. I don't even think they're going to come out with a kit for trucks with active shutters. I ended up installing the same lightbar that another member put on his gmc. It fits with the active shutters, puts out a lot of light, and isn't even noticable behind the grill. I did have to drill a couple of holes in the mounting bracket that came with the bar to lower it some, but that was it.

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ANY PROBLEM with the sensor behind your light bar ???

huntr1117 · June 12, 2020

ANY PROBLEM with the sensor behind your light bar ???

No problems at all. Shutters open and close without any issues.

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slj2008 · June 12, 2020

3 hours ago, huntr1117 said:

No problems at all. Shutters open and close without any issues.

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Thank You - Did you used a new GM headlight (with extra button ) , or just add a switch . Do you have the headlight switch .

huntr1117 · June 13, 2020

Thank You - Did you used a new GM headlight (with extra button ) , or just add a switch . Do you have the headlight switch .

I went with the GM switch that has the offroad switch with it. Used it with the harness from pgamboa.

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slj2008 · June 13, 2020

10 hours ago, huntr1117 said:

I went with the GM switch that has the offroad switch with it. Used it with the harness from pgamboa.

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Thank You

slj2008 · June 15, 2020

On 6/12/2020 at 7:50 PM, huntr1117 said:

I went with the GM switch that has the offroad switch with it. Used it with the harness from pgamboa.

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Are you happy with the light output - Night Driving ? with a single row ?? Thank You

huntr1117 · June 16, 2020

Are you happy with the light output - Night Driving ? with a single row ?? Thank You

I'm happy with the light output of the single row. It throws light further than my high beams. I have it on the same switch as my a-pillar lights so when they're all on at the same time there is a lot of light.

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slj2008 · June 16, 2020

7 hours ago, huntr1117 said:

I'm happy with the light output of the single row. It throws light further than my high beams. I have it on the same switch as my a-pillar lights so when they're all on at the same time there is a lot of light.

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Thank you