Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I put the Elite E2-X on my 2016 Silverado about two months ago.  Catches quite a bit, especially right now in these cold months.  I bought the upgraded braided hose and don't have any noise or collapsing issues that some have had with their setups. I also purchased some extra OEM PCV lines from GM in order to have OEM connectors that snap on/off the connections on the engine. I have a clean side separator, but did not install it and from what I've read, is not really necessary on these trucks unless you are pulling alot or putting your engine under a full throttle.

 

Some pics of my install:

 

image.png.fbc348f30adadaa926cfc92f623d0e76.pngimage.pngimage.pngimage.pngimage.pngimage.png

Posted
12 minutes ago, bkesting said:

I put the Elite E2-X on my 2016 Silverado about two months ago.  Catches quite a bit, especially right now in these cold months.  I bought the upgraded braided hose and don't have any noise or collapsing issues that some have had with their setups. I also purchased some extra OEM PCV lines from GM in order to have OEM connectors that snap on/off the connections on the engine. I have a clean side separator, but did not install it and from what I've read, is not really necessary on these trucks unless you are pulling alot or putting your engine under a full throttle.

 

Some pics of my install:

image.png

Nice install!  So 2 things:

1. did the bracket for the can come with the can itself, and did it mount using holes you had to tap?

2. Is that silver doohickey a 1-way valve ?

Posted
1 hour ago, kevinfranklin said:

Nice install!  So 2 things:

1. did the bracket for the can come with the can itself, and did it mount using holes you had to tap?

2. Is that silver doohickey a 1-way valve ?

The bracket that holds the can came with it. I mounted the bracket to the brake booster (take off the nut holding the brake booster, slide bracket over bolt, replace nut). 

 

Yes, the silver doohickey is a one-way check valve.  I bought the kit that included the valve and the clean side separator. Like I and others have said, you really don't need to install the CSS, and you really don't need the check-valve for these trucks, but I have it and decided to install it anyway now while I was doing everything else.  I may install the CSS later since I own it, or I will try to sell it.  IIRC, the entire setup from Elite Engineering with shipping and the upgraded braided hose cost me right at $400.

Posted

Do you have adequate space under the can to access the drain and put something under it to collect the garbage coming out of it?  How does it affect access to the dipstick?

Posted

That moroso would work great one a 6.0 3/4 ton, but the LT series in the 1/2 ton would need  a lot of additional plumbing.

Posted
3 hours ago, Mike GMC said:

That would mean that the catch can somehow is removing oil from the engine that was not already on it's way to the intake, or you engine has worn in a bit has a bit more blow by than it used to.  I don't see how the catch can could possibly suck oil out of the engine, so I'm guessing he latter.

So you're saying my catch can isn't catch about half a quart of oil per 5k miles?  Because thats about how much I dump out in that time frame.  Generally I'll dump it twice between oil changes.  I have no doubt these, or any, engine burns some oil, but I think most is being taken by the CC.

Posted
9 minutes ago, DirtyMarcus said:

So you're saying my catch can isn't catch about half a quart of oil per 5k miles?  Because thats about how much I dump out in that time frame.  Generally I'll dump it twice between oil changes.  I have no doubt these, or any, engine burns some oil, but I think most is being taken by the CC.

Some of that in the catch can is water.

Are you saying you dump a half quart out of your catch can, check your oil level and it's a half quart low?

 

:)

Posted

Oil consumed by engines goes to one or more of the following places:

1.  Past the rings and valve guides and burned.

2.  Through the intake from pcv systems and burned.

3.  Out through openings and onto the vehicle or ground.

 

If your engine is very healthy and well sealed, most will come from the pcv.  As time goes on, a higher and higher percentage will come from the rings and guides due to wear.

Posted

My Moroso pulls a good amount of ugly juice out of mine. 

Mounting was easy, but I hated to loose the space over the unused battery box. 

Posted
3 hours ago, Mike GMC said:

Do you have adequate space under the can to access the drain and put something under it to collect the garbage coming out of it?  How does it affect access to the dipstick?

It looks cramped in the picture but there is no problem with dipstick access or draining. I have a nozzle threaded to the bottom of the can and drain into a regular water/pop bottle with ease. I'll try to post pics of that tomorrow

Posted (edited)

  I am very happy with the E2-X on my 2016. I made use of all the factory quick connectors to the manifold. I did need to search for an adapter to get the CSS to connect to the intake tube (CAI specific). I find this mounting point easy to get a bottle or cup under the drain valve and I never get more than a few ounces maybe 6 at the most out of it.

gallery_168290_4616_2399596.jpg 

 

Edited by vfm2010
Posted

I wonder if the can would fit there with the stock intake?  Would the supplied hoses be long enough to go around that massive intake silencer?

Posted

I got the UPR and it fits\looks OEM with a nice set of hoses with quick connects. Got the pro model and it catches enough to drain twice between oil changes. On the drain put a poly tube and run it down attach it near the front somewhere, Slide a drain pan under and open the valve. Doesn't get much easier than to drain.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,732
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    user087
    Newest Member
    user087
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 716 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Here's a starter kit:    CC Jensen, a Danish oil testing Concern gives us the following guidelines:   ISO 14/12/10 Very Clean Oil ISO 16/14/11 Clean Oil ISO 17/15/12 Lightly Contaminated ISO 19/17/14 New Oil ISO 22/20/17 Very Contaminated and not suitable for any service.   In addition CC Jensen gives a table showing how engine life is increased by cleaning up the oil. For example cleaning the oil from 19/17/14 to 13/11/8 will extend motor life by a factor of 6X.   But even cleaning it two “Life Extension Classes” will double motor life. So perhaps giving those classes would be useful:   21/19/16 20/18/15 19/17/14 18/16/13 17/15/12 16/14/11 15/13/10 14/12/9 13/11/8   *************************************   https://testoil.com/program-management/setting-iso-cleanliness-targets/   Third paragraph from the bottom will give a starting point.    Your next question should be, okay 10um at what Beta ratio and the answer is in the graph Beta 75.   Then the next question is what is your chosen filters profile? (Purolator PL series below) The red dot is Beta 75. This was the information I obtained from MANN a few years ago. So the best filters, Purolator One, AMSOIL EA, FRAM Ultra, Royal Purple, Bosch Premium should get a doubling engine life over filters like Purolator L, any service filter from any quick lube, WIX, NAPA, STP, Mobil 1, Purolator BOSS.    And as noted by CC Jensen a 2-5 micron @ Beta 200 bypass system has the capability of a six fold improvement. AMSOIL has such a system as does Donaldson.       Now having said all that testing is the touchstone. Test the oil NEW and test it with your chosen filter. Then test over milage. Do the work, get the result. But understand this in NOT absolute BECAUSE this is one factor in isolation.   Example:    A valve spring supplier can state that with cam X and a valve train of Y grams the valves will not float to 7K rpm. is that true if the builder choose a system 20 grams over limit? Common sense must be used and limits understood. 
    • This doesn't look like a GM truck. Not needed on a HD truck
    • It varies a ton around me. Some places are still at $5.00 or higher and others are way down into the $4's.   Offroad diesel was $4.02 at the one station I passed today.
    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...