Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have been leasing trucks for years because buying a truck is throwing more money out the window.I just leased a 18 Silverado for 300 a month for 24 months it cost me out of pocket 700 dollars.The sticker price on the truck was 48k so if you would have bought it I am sure you would of ended up in the high 30k range.So in 2 years of driving the truck with the payment plus the 700 out of pocket that is 7900k.If I were to buy it I lost that as soon as I drove off of the lot because it is a used truck.Unless you have roughly 40k laying around to pay cash and are keeping the truck for 20 years there is no reason to buy unless to a lot of miles on it.If you do put a lot of miles on then you don’t get squat when you sell it.Just my opion erveryone has there own.

  • Like 2
Posted

I have not read all the replies, but I did read the original question. 

 

Leasing is a complete waste of money. The idea of leasing was not invented for your benefit. You spend a bunch of money, and in the end you lose your vehicle. If you decide to buy the vehicle in the end, your still WAY over paying if you consider the lease cost + buy out option. 

 

Buy a used vehicle, and save many thousands. Plus you get to keep the rig....

 

 

Posted

Your way over paying I don’t see that anywhere on my contract. There are no extra contract fees the price of the vehicle is the same as when you initially purchased it. 0% Apr hhmmmm don’t seem to be a bad deal to me. So please elaborate how you wayyyyyyyy overpay.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Not looking for a debate. Just replying to a post. 

 

Obviously not everyone will agree, otherwise - leasing would not be an available option. If it was the BEST option available, then EVERYONE would lease. To each their own. For me it doesn't make sense, for you it does. 

 

Do what makes ya happy. That's all that matters. 

Posted

A number of concepts that need to be introduced into the discussion for a more complete evaluation:

 

leasing a vehicle = renting the vehicle

 

is your car ever an asset or merely an expense?

 

residual value.  It’s pretty simple to take 36 lease payments + residual value (cost) and compare it to a comparable finance payment and term and see which looks better.   Make sure to factor in the cost of money if you’re paying the residual.  

 

Money factor (lease interest rate) vs APR

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

IMO if you're driving 12k miles a year or less and the monthly payment with NO money down is at least 20% less than the 72 month buy payment with NO money down then leasing is where it's at... BUT, that 199/24 month lease is NOT the correct payment description it is $3700 first month payment then 23 payments of 199... This IMO is where lessors scam people to be real the lease payments are $354 a month... ($3700/24) + 199 = $354 a month... Still a good deal IMO but, don't put the $$ down... If you wreck the truck in month 2 and it's totaled your insurance CO will simply pay off your remaining lease payments and you're out the $3700 you prepaid on the lease...

 

I like leasing because cars depreciate like a freaking rock with extra rocks tied on them rolling down a steep teflon coated greased slide... At least with a lease you know exactly what depreciation you're paying for.. OH and on top of that depreciation they wear out brakes, tires, shocks etc and you've gotta fix em while shelling out $3-600 a month on a loan payment because they're so damn expensive most people can't afford to pay cash for 'em so you have to get a loan for the better part of a decade just to cruise around in one!

 

I drive for work and work pays my truck payment so I'm running 25-30k a year hence why I got out of leasing and don't really mind the $500 a month car payment because like I said I don't pay it, my employer does plus my oil changes and all my miles when I'm driving for work but, if not for that I would continue to lease... My truck needed all new shocks and front springs at 45k miles, if I had not done the work myself I would have been out $800 for the shop to do it, as it was I dropped $400 on parts.... For a 2-1/2 year old truck... Add that to my yearly expenses and look at how my monthly cost skyrockets for this year..

Edited by Imcrazy
Posted (edited)

I lease all of my wife's vehicles...She's one her fifth one and it works perfectly for us. The key factors are residual value and the cost of money. You have to watch for the cap cost reduction deals for lease deals. If you play your cards right the CCR, which is like a rebate on a lease, is a couple thousand dollars, and the residual value is high, there are times where a lease payment won't get close to the cost of owning the vehicle. Buying out your lease at the end is a bad idea. You have already paid finance charges and taxes for 3 years on the vehicle, now you will be refinancing the residual value for another three years and usually incurring maintenance costs on top of that. You will think financing it for another 3 years and its yours sounds good, but the rate goes up and say your residual was around 50%, do the math on $25,000 over 3 years at current rates....I do finance my trucks, but I buy them right and trade every 2-3 years when the bumper to bumper runs out

 

EDIT: NEVER, EVER, EVER PUT MONEY DOWN ON A LEASE.....ALL YOU ARE DOING IS BUYING DOWN YOUR PAYMENT....

Edited by 2017Darkness
1
  • Like 1
Posted

Too old to waste money leasing.  Bought my 2015  cash, and never looked back.  Plan on keeping it 20 years.....or until I die.  Still driving my 1998 silverado, and my 2007  Duramax.  Dont forget to factor in full coverage insurance on those new trucks.  Sorta" bumps up your payment.    Like someone said earlier,,,,,Car companys dont lease for your benefit...They are there to make money.  Keep you commin'  back,, Guaranteed annual income.  Keep the money flowing.   Young people today should buy a good used vehicle ,,   preferably off someone they know..  Change the fluids on a regular basis.  Learn how to work on your vehicle.  brakes are so easy  to maintain  as are other things.  You can Google how to fix things on just about any vehicle.   Thats what Ive done all my life,  and im  so far ahead of the game  moneywise.......well you get the idea.

Posted
7 minutes ago, Malibu SS said:

Too old to waste money leasing.  Bought my 2015  cash, and never looked back.  Plan on keeping it 20 years.....or until I die.  Still driving my 1998 silverado, and my 2007  Duramax.  Dont forget to factor in full coverage insurance on those new trucks.  Sorta" bumps up your payment.    Like someone said earlier,,,,,Car companys dont lease for your benefit...They are there to make money.  Keep you commin'  back,, Guaranteed annual income.  Keep the money flowing.   Young people today should buy a good used vehicle ,,   preferably off someone they know..  Change the fluids on a regular basis.  Learn how to work on your vehicle.  brakes are so easy  to maintain  as are other things.  You can Google how to fix things on just about any vehicle.   Thats what Ive done all my life,  and im  so far ahead of the game  moneywise.......well you get the idea.

Agree 100%.

Only you don't have to be old to enjoy the savings.

The other thing I will add is to buy used and save more money.

 

:)

Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Malibu SS said:

Too old to waste money leasing.  Bought my 2015  cash, and never looked back.  Plan on keeping it 20 years.....or until I die.  Still driving my 1998 silverado, and my 2007  Duramax.  Dont forget to factor in full coverage insurance on those new trucks.  Sorta" bumps up your payment.    Like someone said earlier,,,,,Car companys dont lease for your benefit...They are there to make money.  Keep you commin'  back,, Guaranteed annual income.  Keep the money flowing.   Young people today should buy a good used vehicle ,,   preferably off someone they know..  Change the fluids on a regular basis.  Learn how to work on your vehicle.  brakes are so easy  to maintain  as are other things.  You can Google how to fix things on just about any vehicle.   Thats what Ive done all my life,  and im  so far ahead of the game  moneywise.......well you get the idea.

No offense but, you're not considering all the facts...I've leased about 10 vehicles for my wife and myself and to date I've probably saved about 25k over buying the same cars but, I am a very good shopper... Just on the current vehicle my wife is in I saved $5600 over buying... Lease payment for 3 years is $235 x 36 mos = $8600,  buying that same car over 36 mos =730x36 = $26280 - the trade in value of the car once it's paid off in month 37 ($26280 -$12000) is a cost of $14,280 - the lease payments made = $5600 saved over 2 years.. Saying that the full coverage adds to the cost is a false argument, if you're buying a $25k vehicle and not fully insuring it you truly do not understand money one bit.... Giving up your cash when interest rates are 0% or very low cost financing options are available doesn't make sense, you should leverage your cash in other areas of your financial plans...

Edited by Imcrazy
  • Like 3
Posted

Your talking 2 or 3 years....Im talking 20 .   How much money  and how many cars are you going to lease in  20 years?  My cars are paid off in 2 to 3 years....The rest is just maintanance.  When my trucks hit 5 years,  its just liability and glass breakage.  You think that you are saving money,  and you are really spending money.  Sorta like, you cant see the forest for the trees.  By the way,  Ive never had an extended warranty in my life.  So far ,, no need for it.  But you dont know my history,  or what I have done in my life. You keep talking about 0% financing,  well I never finance.  I just drive em.   These last 3 will be my last.  Most people cant, or wont do what I have done with my vehicles.  Thats OK.  You just keep leasing,  Ill just keep driving.  Well see who comes out ahead.

Posted (edited)
On 9/1/2018 at 9:27 PM, Malibu SS said:

Your talking 2 or 3 years....Im talking 20 .   How much money  and how many cars are you going to lease in  20 years?  My cars are paid off in 2 to 3 years....The rest is just maintanance.  When my trucks hit 5 years,  its just liability and glass breakage.  You think that you are saving money,  and you are really spending money.  Sorta like, you cant see the forest for the trees.  By the way,  Ive never had an extended warranty in my life.  So far ,, no need for it.  But you dont know my history,  or what I have done in my life. You keep talking about 0% financing,  well I never finance.  I just drive em.   These last 3 will be my last.  Most people cant, or wont do what I have done with my vehicles.  Thats OK.  You just keep leasing,  Ill just keep driving.  Well see who comes out ahead.

Yeah, given the miles I put on my vehicles in 20 years my wife's car would have 300k miles on it, my truck would have 500k miles on it... Given that my wife not mechanically inclined at all, I like to have her in a new car, I couldn't see having her running around in something with 100k miles on it that is 10 years old, her safety is way more important to me than milking a car till the wheels fall off... I look at vehicles from a different perspective than you do clearly...

 

Maintenance adds up and IF you have to pay someone to do it for you because you don't have the time, tools or facility to do the work it becomes very expensive quickly...


Paying cash for a car is one of the most short sighted financial decisions you could make... Whenever 0% financing is available on a car, tractor, etc smart money is to take it unless you're giving up dollars off the purchase price to do so..

 

I can see the forest just fine, I just choose to have my forest include all my financial / life decisions not just my car purchases... I like to eliminate my liability for a vehicle by entering into a lease that guarantees the amount of depreciation I will pay.. I prefer to buy things that appreciate or hold their value, cars just sink like a rock and are nothing but an expense... Now this all assumes that I can continue to get super cheap leases, it helps having an 750- 800 credit score and enough cash in the bank to pay the lease up front (not that I ever would pay a lease up front) If lease price climb and I can buy a 1-2 year old car with 12-20k miles on the clock for $50-60 a month more on a 72 month loan than I could lease the new equivalent for then I might be able to justify the liability of owning another car... I don't mind owning / borrowing money to 'buy' my truck because my employer basically covers my car payment and I am running around in 'my' truck on their dime so if I have to sink $500-$1000 a year in maintenance cost into it, it's easier to stomach...

 

Not sure why you'd think it's financially sound to not have full coverage on a $30,000 piece of gear that you're putting on public roads where you have almost no control over the fact that some drunk or distracted driver could cause an accident that would destroy the value you have in the vehicle?? Maybe you have a few million bucks in the bank and you're in a totally different league than I am..

 

Doubt there is much of a point of seeing who 'comes out ahead' because really, that is such a subjective thing, we're probably both coming out a head in our own needs / situation... If you like keeping cars for a very long time and you're able to work on 'em and make 'em last for a low cost then great for you, I just prefer to treat cars as use items and replace them frequently..

Edited by Imcrazy
Posted

It really depends on the individuals taste and circumstances. I’m a car nut it’s part of my being. Lucky for me I was in a business partnership my every two-three year purchases were a write off. My wife goes 5-10 years or more and never sees 100K miles on a vehicle. We still have 3 of her last 5. A car that doesn’t get driven lots of miles can easily last a long time. I own a truck that’s a 92 Chevy and would drive it anywhere. So all rules apply and there’s no wrong answer. To some people their ride is everything, to some it’s just a tool.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Here’s some leasing advice:

If you lease, never, ever put money down.

 

The lease company is the Loss Payee in the event of a payout.

 

If you total the car, you will not get a penny of your down payment back.

It all goes to the lease company.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,948
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    zibzer2
    Newest Member
    zibzer2
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 739 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
    • 2023 GMC 3500 HD, SLE, 6.6L Gas, 4x4, 6 Spd Options:  SLE Convenience Package; Driver Alert Package 1; Spray on Bedliner; X31 Off Road Package; TRAILERING MIRRORS, HEATED POWER -ADJUSTABLE, AUTO DIMMING, WITH TURN INDICATORS WHEELHOUSE LINERS, REAR INC. REAR AXLE - 3.73 RATIO INC. GVWR, 11,350 LBS. (5148 KG) INC. FRONT AND REAR PARK ASSIST, INC. ULTRASONIC     I have been launching my new boat and noticed some things related to the parking brake.. I usually set the parking brake (habit) when on flat ground for typical driving.    When backed down on the launch ramp to launch the boat and I place gear selector into Park, the parking brake activates automatically. My second nature is to set parking brake manually and noticed I was turing the parking brake off.  The parking brake appears to be setting itself automatically.   I looked all over my owner's manual and only found references to being on an incline and manually setting parking brake, or at times parking brake will be auto engaged, but nothing specific to my situation.    When is the parking brake automatically engaged?  Under what specific circumstances?  Can the auto set parameters be changed?     I like the auto set feature.  It would be nice if always engaged when shifted into Park and released when shifted out of Park (like my wifes 2025 RAV4).   Thanks!    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...