Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Who has what company for an aftermarket brake kit installed? Pro's and Con's to the kit?

 

I am going to add better braking to my truck, and I'm looking for info that myself, and others can use in the future, so please add as detailed of information as you can.

 

For me, I have tuned the truck, went to a slightly heavier tire/rim combo, plus I tow, and at times, I will have my sons KTM on the front hitch, and my 570 in the bed. So, all of these reasons are in need of better braking...

Posted

Baer makes a kit uses oem caliper with a bracket for slightly larger rotor. its like 700 per axle

Posted

I'll be getting the GM Brembo kit.  Part number 84263234.  It's expensive but I've seen them on ebay for around $1600.  6 piston calipers and 16'' rotors.   

Posted

That kit is only for the front ibelive.  That would bug me.  Im doing wilwoods

Posted
6 hours ago, Nasty said:

That kit is only for the front ibelive.  That would bug me.  Im doing wilwoods

The higher the center of gravity the more you bias you need to the front. Pretty darn high on our trucks.

 

Rears would be pretty important while towing/hauling though.

Posted
54 minutes ago, truckguy82 said:

The higher the center of gravity the more you bias you need to the front. Pretty darn high on our trucks.

 

Rears would be pretty important while towing/hauling though.

Agreed. Im Just saying if i only seen the kit on the front that would bug me not having it look all the same.  

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I have the 6 piston Wilwood 14.25" fronts.  Stock rears.   I wanted to keep 18" wheels to have larger sidewalls than the 20" wheels have with 33" diameter tires. 16" brakes won't clear  18s.

 

Also, my thought is that the pedal pressure requirement is pretty high on our trucks for hard braking.  If you're serious about an upgrade, look into putting a Hydra-boost system on it like the HD trucks.  That would require adding a pump, since our trucks don't have a powersteering pump.  My approach would be to just buy all the HD brackets, pump, hoses, booster, master cylinder, etc..

 

Edited by Spurshot
Posted
37 minutes ago, Spurshot said:

I have the 6 piston Wilwood 14.25" fronts.  Stock rears.   I wanted to keep 18" wheels to have larger sidewalls than the 20" wheels have with 33" diameter tires. 16" brakes won't clear  18s.

 

Also, my thought is that the pedal pressure requirement is pretty high on our trucks for hard braking.  If you're serious about an upgrade, look into putting a Hydra-boost system on it like the HD trucks.  That would require adding a pump, since our trucks don't have a powersteering pump.  My approach would be to just buy all the HD brackets, pump, hoses, booster, master cylinder, etc..

 

Wilwood makes 2 kits. 20" or larger and 18 or larger.    But twisted metal works is coming out with a kit for 15" or larger rears which i eill need because im running 15s in the near future out back

Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, 6.2Midnight said:

I see that part number is only the front. Do you have the rear part number as well?

 

16.1" rotors is all you need trust me, rears won't do as much as you think anyways adds huge cost to the vehicle. Wilwood kit is about the same price as GM, Id run factory GM 16.1" 6 piston brakes over aftermarket any day. I run OEM on my CTS-V works just fine and I get parts easy. Amazon is running 20% off right now on some GM consumables, picked up filters, brake pads etc... for vehicles. 

 

Brembo is a highly trusted brand,  they are on just about every high performance vehicle you can name, Wilwood comes in as aftermarket class brakes. I myself and even loads of others retro fit Brembo brakes on vehicles more than Wilwoods.

 

you need a 20"+ spare wheel and tire as well, people always forget to upgrade spare when they do brakes.  Save yourself a headache buy the GM and get a 20" spare wheel and tire. its expensive b/c its worth it. geez you should see what Mercedes Benz charges for the exact same Brembo brakes.

 

Now that the 2019's are out, the fronts have fix piston front calipers, might what to look into those for a budget build with parts availability for a long time. 

Edited by 05SIERRAMAN
Posted

The GM Brembo kit is a massive, quality upgrade.  I looked on ebay and can't find them anywhere close to $1600 (partial kits and used parts was all I could find), for that they'd be a steal and I'd definitely go that way. 

 

The Eradispeed upgrade is probably the best bang for the buck.  It comes out to about $500 more per axle than simply replacing your rotors with new OEM.  The added size of the front 15" rotors (and directional cooling vanes) will provide a real improvement in performance (though nothing like the Brembo kit) for relatively little.   It's a good option to have.

Posted
18 minutes ago, 05SIERRAMAN said:

Now that the 2019's are out, the fronts have fix piston front calipers, might what to look into those for a budget build with parts availability for a long time. 

Yeah, I'm hoping they kept the same offset and bolt spacing for the new 4-piston calipers.  So much better than sliding calipers....    Those calipers and the Eradispeed upgraded rotors might make for a really good setup that could be put together cheaply once 2019 replacement calipers are available.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • We understand that intermittent AC concerns are inconvenient, @tjonesdfw, especially since they often do not show themselves when we want or need them to. We would like the opportunity to learn more about your experience with your Sierra and explore the best path of assistance moving forward. To begin, please visit: https://s.gmc.com/support-request  and fill out the support request form with all pertinent details. This form helps our team gather the right information and ensures your request is routed appropriately.
    • We want you to have full confidence in your Silverado, @ceeemcgeee. Safety is our utmost priority, and we understand your concern after this experience. We would like to provide an added layer of assistance between you and your dealer as we pursue the resolutions of your transmission concerns. When you have a moment, we would like to learn more about your experience so we may explore the best path of assistance moving forward. Please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the support request form with all pertinent details. This form helps our team gather the right information and ensures your request is routed appropriately.
    • Disclosure: BlueV8 is a Supporting Vendor and sells plug-in AFM/DFM disablers.   Before you spend a dime with us — or with anyone — try the AFM disabler GM already built into your truck. It's the shifter, and it's free. ⏱ The 10-second version 🚫 Skip the M5 method if: Most of your miles are highway — M5 locks out 6th gear, so you cruise at higher RPM and burn more fuel You already know you'll forget — it only works if you do it every single drive Your lifters are already ticking — nothing that switches AFM off repairs existing damage You already run a tune or disabler — this would be doing the same job twice ✅ Worth trying if: You want AFM off today, for exactly $0 You want to test-drive V8-only life before buying anything Your driving is mostly town and short trips, where 6th gear barely matters Your truck is leased or under warranty and you won't touch the ECM — this is zero hardware, zero software 💡 The whole trick, in one paragraph Owners across GM forums keep reporting the same pattern: put the transmission in manual / range-select mode, pick M5 or lower, and AFM never activates — the truck stays in V8 the whole drive. Bump it up to M6 and V4 mode comes right back. Two of the cleaner threads on it are here and here. GM has never documented this behavior, so file it under "strong owner consensus," not gospel. The good news: it takes exactly one drive to verify on your own truck. Steps below. What "free" actually costs Effort, every drive. It's a routine, not a setting. Shift to M, tap up to 5, every time you get in. There is no set-and-forget here. 6th gear. When GM shipped trucks with AFM/DFM switched off during the 2021 chip shortage, its own estimate of the penalty was about 1 MPG — and those trucks kept every gear. In M5 you're also giving up overdrive, so expect the highway hit to be bigger than that. Patience. One Tahoe owner ran the L5 routine for two months, then got tired of it and bought a plug-in disabler — he had an extended warranty, so flashing a tune was off the table. That's not a knock on the method. That's just what month two feels like.   I put together the full instructions, limitations, and links to the original owner discussions here: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/how-to-disable-afm-for-free-the-m5-method
    • Disclosure: BlueV8 is a Supporting Vendor and we sell AFM/DFM disablers. We wrote this because not every GM owner actually needs one. In some cases, regular maintenance, towing use, an existing tune, or simply using M5 makes another device unnecessary.   ⏱ The 10-second version 🚫 Skip it if… You keep the oil full and change it every ~5,000 miles. Your risk is already low. You're happy shifting into M5 every drive. That disables AFM for free. Your truck tows heavy most days. AFM barely runs under load. You already run a tune or delete kit. Done is done. It's already ticking or misfiring. You need a mechanic, not a plug-in. ✅ Worth it if… You bought it used and the oil history is a mystery. Checking the dipstick is… not your hobby. (No judgment.) You're a long-term keeper with lots of easy highway miles — exactly when AFM runs most. The V4 drone and shudder drive you nuts. You're under warranty, so a tune is off the table.   The full article includes the supporting GM bulletins and owner reports: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler
    • It`s magnetic so it`s not main or rod bearings. I would pop off a valve cover or 2 and take a good look at the rocker arms. See if you can see if any needle bearings are coming apart.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...