Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
6 minutes ago, asalinasz39 said:

All this 35s on at4s look great! I just got my AT4 with 5.3L V8 3.23 gears...my 17 z71 had 3.42 and ran 33x12.50 no problems. Iam assuming 33s would be the biggest tire size i can go with safely on the at4 or you guys think 34” or 35” would be okay on the tranny?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm running the 35s but I have the 6.2 with the 10spd and 3.23s. I noticed a very mild difference. I would suggest running the 34/35 on the stock gearing and if you feel or notice a difference in acceleration or fuel mileage (take into account your speedometer/ odometer will be off, 60mph speedometer = 63mph actual) then change the gearing.

Posted (edited)
43 minutes ago, destrada127 said:

I'm running the 35s but I have the 6.2 with the 10spd and 3.23s. I noticed a very mild difference. I would suggest running the 34/35 on the stock gearing and if you feel or notice a difference in acceleration or fuel mileage (take into account your speedometer/ odometer will be off, 60mph speedometer = 63mph actual) then change the gearing.

I’m impressed you’ve gotten the 35s to work. When I test drove an AT4 and took it to 4 wheel parts they came out with a tape measure, had me turn the wheels back and forth, and were concerned about anything over 34” tall and 275 wide 

 

your truck is stock, no level, right? Any other insights into how it worked? Did you remove the bracket at the back of the wheel well? What sort of mud flap trimming, etc. what kind of tires are those?

 

Really  appreciate you taking time to post everything you’ve posted. 

Edited by ShortMag
Posted
I’m impressed you’ve gotten the 35s to work. When I test drove an AT4 and took it to 4 wheel parts they came out with a tape measure, had me turn the wheels back and forth, and were concerned about anything over 34” tall and 275 wide 
 
your truck is stock, no level, right? Any other insights into how it worked? Did you remove the bracket at the back of the wheel well? What sort of mud flap trimming, etc. what kind of tires are those?
 
Really  appreciate you taking time to post everything you’ve posted. 
I previously worked at 4 wheel parts and they swore I wouldn't fit 37s with just a leveling kit on my 04 f150. I did it by keeping the stock wheels that were only 7.5" wide. They won't steer you wrong, they just want to convert their asses. So they know for sure a 34 will fit so they'll stick to that. I did manage to squeeze these 35s on here and I have no rub, but I also ordered the moto fab leveling kit (that should be here today) just for the look. Also these 35s are accelera MT01 and don't measure out to a true 35 and they are way skinnier than nitto and toyo (they're also half the price, but that's just until I have the $ for the bumper, lift wheels and tires I actually want). I'll get some pics up when it stops raining here in FLd64638e9fbb8731d4c6945c2c93796ff.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
I'm running the 35s but I have the 6.2 with the 10spd and 3.23s. I noticed a very mild difference. I would suggest running the 34/35 on the stock gearing and if you feel or notice a difference in acceleration or fuel mileage (take into account your speedometer/ odometer will be off, 60mph speedometer = 63mph actual) then change the gearing.


I looked into my current stock duratracs 275 65 R18 which the good years specs says 32.1 x11 so ill prob go to 295x65r18 (33.1”x11.8”)when these wear out cuz I wouldn’t want to re-gear unless by then somebody has ran some bigger than 33s with no issues on 5.3 and 3.23 gears


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, asalinasz39 said:

 


I looked into my current stock duratracs 275 65 R18 which the good years specs says 32.1 x11 so ill prob go to 295x65r18 (33.1”x11.8”)when these wear out cuz I wouldn’t want to re-gear unless by then somebody has ran some bigger than 33s with no issues on 5.3 and 3.23 gears


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

You will not notice much of a difference going to a 34 or 35 tire.  Im running 33.5x12.5 on my Trail Boss and gearing is not an issue.  I personally wouldn't re-gear unless I was running 37s or higher.

Edited by z1boss
  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks! Yeah i was hoping 34s would be okay.

Here is my buddies AT4 5.3L with 33x12.5r18 toyo MT that the dealership installed before sell...factory actual tire specs (33”x12.7”) and no rubbing according to him. They are 74lbs each tire though so his averaging 13mpg.
My duratracs only weigh 49lbs.

713f64bcc1b9222270b3b43c41cc2bae.jpg7aa4a7d146f4ad215aa27735ed1bf899.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 4
Posted
9 hours ago, asalinasz39 said:

Thanks! Yeah i was hoping 34s would be okay.

Here is my buddies AT4 5.3L with 33x12.5r18 toyo MT that the dealership installed before sell...factory actual tire specs (33”x12.7”) and no rubbing according to him. They are 74lbs each tire though so his averaging 13mpg.
My duratracs only weigh 49lbs.

713f64bcc1b9222270b3b43c41cc2bae.jpg7aa4a7d146f4ad215aa27735ed1bf899.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Look darn good but man that’s a heavy tire. Looks like 285/70/18 tires run about 60 lbs

Posted
On 2/10/2019 at 12:37 PM, destrada127 said:

I previously worked at 4 wheel parts and they swore I wouldn't fit 37s with just a leveling kit on my 04 f150. I did it by keeping the stock wheels that were only 7.5" wide. They won't steer you wrong, they just want to convert their asses. So they know for sure a 34 will fit so they'll stick to that. I did manage to squeeze these 35s on here and I have no rub, but I also ordered the moto fab leveling kit (that should be here today) just for the look. Also these 35s are accelera MT01 and don't measure out to a true 35 and they are way skinnier than nitto and toyo (they're also half the price, but that's just until I have the $ for the bumper, lift wheels and tires I actually want). I'll get some pics up when it stops raining here in FLd64638e9fbb8731d4c6945c2c93796ff.jpg

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

You’re truck looks great but is it safe to say that even though the manufacturer calls that a 35x12.5 tire it’s really more comparable to something smaller? (34x11.5 maybe?)

 

dealer ordered an AT4 that I spec’d and is giving me first dibs on it when it comes in (Did not now how long it would take or exact pricing though). 

Posted
You’re truck looks great but is it safe to say that even though the manufacturer calls that a 35x12.5 tire it’s really more comparable to something smaller? (34x11.5 maybe?)
 
dealer ordered an AT4 that I spec’d and is giving me first dibs on it when it comes in (Did not now how long it would take or exact pricing though). 
Yes nobody runs exactly what they claim. My 37 bfg's were 38s but my 37 pro comps were 36. I didn't know these were going to be that small but I got them for a steal so I can't complain

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted
On ‎2‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 7:30 PM, Payton34 said:

 

The OP is looking for "Stock" trucks with larger tires.

This Instagram post states 3.5" Wicked Customs Suspension Lift......

Posted
The OP is looking for "Stock" trucks with larger tires.
This Instagram post states 3.5" Wicked Customs Suspension Lift......
Mine is stock height at the moment and I'm running 35s (according to tire size printed on sidewall) on stock wheels. The tire runs a little smaller but there is enough room to run a true 35

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted
3 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

The OP is looking for "Stock" trucks with larger tires.

This Instagram post states 3.5" Wicked Customs Suspension Lift......

Never heard of a bumper spacer kit until I just read up on them a little. If I understand them right they provide more clearance in front of the tire. But in my experience the constraint on bigger tires is the rear of the front wheel wells?

Posted

That would be correct.

2 hours ago, ShortMag said:

Never heard of a bumper spacer kit until I just read up on them a little. If I understand them right they provide more clearance in front of the tire. But in my experience the constraint on bigger tires is the rear of the front wheel wells?

 

Posted
Nice to know a 12.5 wide works on factory 18s. Anyone know if the at4 and trailboss 18" wheel are the same offset?
I have the factory 20x9s but the 18s should still be fine

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,804
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    LCH14
    Newest Member
    LCH14
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,647 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'd change the fluid and start there.   198F is nothing for the 8L90.  They typically operate 180-200F stock.  
    • Looking for help!   2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 5.3l 4x4 8l90 61k miles - truck is in Arizona, was over 110 outside on Monday when this whole situation transpired. Never had any major issues with transmission until this point:   Truck sat outside my construction office for approx 1 hour idling before I realized, ran around the job site wrapping some things up for the day and then left. Went to get food and sat in the drive through for approx 30 minutes idling. As soon as I pull out of the drive through and onto the main road, rear tires lock up and feels like transmission fell out of the truck. Shifted to park, shut the truck off and tried again, same thing happened. Was able to reverse into parking lot (truck slammed into reverse). Let the truck sit turned off for 10 minutes before trying again, but it continued to happen. Towed truck back to my house. Highest the trans temps reached was 198.   Friday, after work I start looking into the situation. Truck sat in my driveway untouched all week. Truck is now driving like normal, transmission doesn’t get over 185 degrees when trying to heat it up. Got up to 60 multiples times with no issues, no issues accelerating, only down shifted hard into first one time at 185 degrees. Does anyone have any insight? Never through a code or a check engine light. Truck has never been used to tow either. No transmission services at this point.
    • Atlas won.   I know better, but I did it anyway. I took a compressed air line with a chuck and rubber tip and jammed it in the open EGR port. The port was clear as far as I could see, and as far as I could poke with a flexible wire, but that doesn't mean it's not clogged.   Compressed air blew back at me along with a cloud of black. Oops. I didn't have the rubber tip seated in there all the way. Jammed it up in there some more and squeezed the chuck. PSI was set to 120. Poof! It blew back at me again. Third time...pfffffttssssssspffffffsssfffffff, face full of carbon, and then, kind of a thud..and the air stopped spraying back at me. It was now exiting the exhaust with a low shhhhhh sound as it flowed through the pipe. Something broke free. I pressurized the port again, and air flowed.   Made my day.   Long story short on this problem, it's fixed. Something was really blocking the EGR passages down low, and compressed air blew it apart. I don't recommend this as who knows what debris was sent where. But it's allowed me to move forward, mentally, and onto the next problems I need to get this little S-Blazer going down the road properly again.  
    • Your truck lowered, looks good. I'm happy with the stance on this. I may need the extra ground clearance given my location/situation.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...