Owners Pictures of 35" Tires on Stock AT4 or Trail Boss

[Ben Berkenpas]

5 minutes ago, destrada127 said:

No worries. And here is a pic, I swear it looks level

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I dont think mine sits unlevel either but I think another an inch or 2 couldn't hurt!

[asalinasz39]

@destrada127

Great find on that leveling kit! So I looked under my truck to check out my stock cv angles and this is what they look like! How are yours looking after the 1.5” motofab kit?

I also found these other strut spacers: 1” and 1/2” that fit on the 2019 1500. Iam thinking these wouldn’t change geometry much then maybe drop the rear a bit by swapping the rear 2” stock blocks to my old 2017s 1 1/8” blocks that i kept in storage

Currently with my duratracs 275 65 r18 mine sits at 38 1/4” front and 40 3/4” rear. Thats a 2.5” rake





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[destrada127]

I dont think mine sits unlevel either but I think another an inch or 2 couldn't hurt!

That's what she sai... Dammit

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[destrada127]

@destrada127

Great find on that leveling kit! So I looked under my truck to check out my stock cv angles and this is what they look like! How are yours looking after the 1.5” motofab kit?

I also found these other strut spacers: 1” and 1/2” that fit on the 2019 1500. Iam thinking these wouldn’t change geometry much then maybe drop the rear a bit by swapping the rear 2” stock blocks to my old 2017s 1 1/8” blocks that i kept in storage [emoji4]

Currently with my duratracs 275 65 r18 mine sits at 38 1/4” front and 40 3/4” rear. Thats a 2.5” rake





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I don't have the original angle to compare to (from mine) but considering the strut moved outward and up, by all of an inch, I don't think it really affected the geometry. What you are wanting to do with replacing the rear block will definitely level her out but in my opinion, down is not an option lol

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[asalinasz39]

I don't have the original angle to compare to (from mine) but considering the strut moved outward and up, by all of an inch, I don't think it really affected the geometry. What you are wanting to do with replacing the rear block will definitely level her out but in my opinion, down is not an option lol

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Lol yeah I know what you mean! My 2017 had a 2.5” in the front and I had replaced to a 2” block to have a 1” rake which gives as you say the leveled out look. I am just to scared to do a 1.5” since the angles don’t appear to be straight from factory so I thought a 1/2” would be equivalent to a cumulative 2.5” as I had in the 17. Luckily I had 27k miles on the 17 without issues.


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[destrada127]

Lol yeah I know what you mean! My 2017 had a 2.5” in the front and I had replaced to a 2” block to have a 1” rake which gives as you say the leveled out look. I am just to scared to do a 1.5” since the angles don’t appear to be straight from factory so I thought a 1/2” would be equivalent to a cumulative 2.5” as I had in the 17. Luckily I had 27k miles on the 17 without issues.


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A little angle is ok. That is what CV joints are designed to do. If the angle is too nasty, you can always drop the diff a bit

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[Ben Berkenpas]

7 minutes ago, destrada127 said:

A little angle is ok. That is what CV joints are designed to do. If the angle is too nasty, you can always drop the diff a bit

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Our Trailboss/AT4's have different CV shafts than the the regular Silverado/Sierra so the 2" factory lift shouldn't be included in your figuring. Our trucks were built for the extra height. So relax, go up 1 1/2", and enjoy!

[Baja24]

2 hours ago, destrada127 said:

Here are some pics of the leveling kit strut spacer.

Also, the hair dryer myth has been busted. You cannot reform the wheel well liner with a hair dryer. It might be possible with a heat gun, but I'm not rubbing so... maybe later

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Looks good! But go get some longer bolts for your spacer. That looks like the nuts can easily come loose. Not enough thread.

[AJMBLAZER]

40 minutes ago, Ben Berkenpas said:

Our Trailboss/AT4's have different CV shafts than the the regular Silverado/Sierra so the 2" factory lift shouldn't be included in your figuring. Our trucks were built for the extra height. So relax, go up 1 1/2", and enjoy!

  Incorrect. Only the CV shafts are special. The control arms, ball joints, steering components, and all their associated mounts are all the same as regular trucks. So those components will be working at an effective 3.5” lift height. 

[destrada127]

Looks good! But go get some longer bolts for your spacer. That looks like the nuts can easily come loose. Not enough thread.

Thanks I didn't even notice that. I was going to replace them anyway bc while the bolt said 8.8, I don't believe it bc the head was easy to round off the corners, not completely, but enough to smash my knuckles into the lower control arm

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[asalinasz39]

  Incorrect. Only the CV shafts are special. The control arms, ball joints, steering components, and all their associated mounts are all the same as regular trucks. So those components will be working at an effective 3.5” lift height. 

I looked at the ball joints and those look perfectly straight not like on my 17 after the 2.5” leveling kit was added they showed a bit of binding but these are looking quite straight.

I ve looked at tires and so far have the following options.

Mastercraft mxt 295 70 r18 (34.25x12”) 62lbs

Nitto Ridge Grappler 305 65 r18 (33.58”x12.24”) 68.4lbs

K02 305 65 r18 (33.5x12.2”) 62.8lbs

K02 34x12.5 r18 (33.5x12.5”) 63.4 lbs





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[destrada127]

I looked at the ball joints and those look perfectly straight not like on my 17 after the 2.5” leveling kit was added they showed a bit of binding but these are looking quite straight.

I ve looked at tires and so far have the following options.

Mastercraft mxt 295 70 r18 (34.25x12”) 62lbs

Nitto Ridge Grappler 305 65 r18 (33.58”x12.24”) 68.4lbs

K02 305 65 r18 (33.5x12.2”) 62.8lbs

K02 34x12.5 r18 (33.5x12.5”) 63.4 lbs





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The mastercraft will be the cheapest but not the smoothest. The nittos are the softest and will give the best ride but are heavy. The bfg's are expensive but they will last a LONG time. I ran 90k on one set of bfg's. I ran the cheap tires this time bc I'll be lifting it with the bigger wheels and tires by the time the tread is gone on these

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[asalinasz39]

The mastercraft will be the cheapest but not the smoothest. The nittos are the softest and will give the best ride but are heavy. The bfg's are expensive but they will last a LONG time. I ran 90k on one set of bfg's. I ran the cheap tires this time bc I'll be lifting it with the bigger wheels and tires by the time the tread is gone on these

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Yes i agree, I ran BFGoodrich KO on my canyon and they still looked intact after 2 years. I like the KO2s look but the Nittos are far better looking IMO...still have plenty of time to decide as I plan to wear our my duratracs since their not so bad themselves lol


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[z1boss]

10 hours ago, destrada127 said:

The mastercraft will be the cheapest but not the smoothest. The nittos are the softest and will give the best ride but are heavy. The bfg's are expensive but they will last a LONG time. I ran 90k on one set of bfg's. I ran the cheap tires this time bc I'll be lifting it with the bigger wheels and tires by the time the tread is gone on these

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I have about 30k mile on my Mickey Thompson MTZs and they look like brand new still.  15/32 of tread left.  Came with 20/32

[destrada127]

I have about 30k mile on my Mickey Thompson MTZs and they look like brand new still.  15/32 of tread left.  Came with 20/32

That's pretty good. My buddy had Mickey t's and ran them dead in less than 50k but the Mickey's I had on my mustang ran 30k and still look new. It's always going to be pick 2 of 3. Cheap, ride, and life. If they're cheap and ride nice, they won't last. If they're cheap and last, they won't ride nice. Or if they ride nice and last, they won't be cheap

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