Jump to content

Diff lock


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello every one , I know that GM has an automatic diff lock , how can I know if my car ( 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT z71 ) is equipped with it or not , my other car is f150 which has an actual button to activate the diff lock .

Thanks

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

if your truck was equipped with one from the factory, look in your lower glove box door, you will see a listing of all the Regular Production options your equipped with

 

your looking for the Code "G80"

 

if you see G80 listed then you have a automatic locking rear differential

Posted

As mentioned look for the G80 code in the glovebox but if someone added a locker after the truck was built you could either jack up the rear end and put it in gear with traction control and stabilitrak disabled and see if when you speed up a little both wheels will lock and unlock to try and keep them at the same speed. Another method is to have the rear end jacked up and spin one tire by hand as fast as you can and then suddenly stop it and try to turn it backwards. If you have a locker when you go to spin the tire the opposite direction from what you started at you will hear a loud clunk and the wheel on the other side that you were not spinning will begin to change motion immediately once it locks up.

Posted

Call the dealer, and give them your VIN#. They should be able to tell you if you have a locking diff. They can use that number to access the build sheet for the vehicle. If you contact GM directly, they will email you a copy of the build sheet. 

Posted
30 minutes ago, khaledsamy36 said:

Thank you all , yes it has the G80 .
Being automatic diff lock ( from your experience ) is it as effective as the manual one in F150 ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Better! Dont have to think about it, it just kicks in automatically.  I think its something like when the difference between the two wheels is 200rpm, I can't remember exactly, itll lock it up.  Get in the dirt and try it out!  :)

Posted
Better! Dont have to think about it, it just kicks in automatically.  I think its something like when the difference between the two wheels is 200rpm, I can't remember exactly, itll lock it up.  Get in the dirt and try it out!  [emoji4]

I will , thank you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I think it's when the opposite wheel reaches more the 10mph, then they both are locked together and spin at the same rate.

Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, btj_z71 said:

Better! Dont have to think about it, it just kicks in automatically.  I think its something like when the difference between the two wheels is 200rpm, I can't remember exactly, itll lock it up.  Get in the dirt and try it out!  :)

Correct, the one wheel needs a 200rpm difference before it locks up, and it wants to unlock as soon as you let off the gas. I find on ice or snow it sounds and feels really bad when it is locking/unlocking if you are spinning a tire. It will sounds and feel clunky, where the old Posi-tracks did not. I am really surprised people are breaking these things from improper use, but Eaton is easily one of the best driveline component manufacturers on the planet. If you spun a tire at 200rpm and reached down for the diff lock switch in a manual diff lock truck, you would blow your diff apart. I have 6-way diff locks in my class 8's, all on air switches. Personally, I would much prefer if I could control when the diff was locked vs. open but I totally see why GM does it this way for unexperienced end users. Otherwise people would have the front and rear locked up in the summer and try to go through a drive thru, then bitch at GM for using poor quality components.. :dunno:

Posted

Are the G80 units made by Eaton? 

 

I installed an Eaton Detroit TrueTrac in my '02 Silverado and it worked GREAT!

I LOVED that diff! No more 1 wheel spin on rainy days or especially pulling out of a parking lot onto a busy road when concrete wasn't completely dry or clean. TrueTrac is a work of pure art in my book!

Posted

The G80 is an eaton unit.  Same silly design since 1973 and they just keep plugging along with it.  Maybe they can apply "fifty years of the gov bomb" on the trucks for 2023 lol.

 

The Trutrac is a helical gear driven limited slip designed for road racing.  I use one in the front of my 1990 Jimmy because it allows you to turn corners like an open diff.  Doesn't do much in a straight line but it's better than an open carrier.  

Posted

I disagree...  I never had an issue straight line, both tires always spun together. And coming from my open diff, I promise I noticed haha. 

It would turn with no clicks or pops or issues at all, but as soon as you punched it, both tires would spin together. (Truck had no traction control system)

Only issue was how easy it was for the truck to get sideways in the rain versus just sitting there with the RR tire just spinning. But I was that idiot who slung the ass end of the truck around every corner when it was raining just because it was so easy to do with the TrueTrac. I'm a TrueTrac fan for sure!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • sorry to bump an old thread, im a bit clueless with this stuff, would these fit a 2019+ Silverado? https://wiperpro.com.au/products/chevrolet-silverado-wiper-blades mainly wondering if the beam shape stays planted at highway speed, thats what seems to let the factory ones down imo
    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...