Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

People  !!! Front gear ratio change is not available for 2021 Silverado 1500 4X4.  So do not change rear ratio because you cannot change the front !!!. I learned the hard way after having my rear end done to 4:56 . We have contacted many axle rear end shops and they say " NOT AVAILABLE"  NOBODY KNOWS WHEN GEAR SET WILL BE AVAILABLE.. . My rear end is already geared to 4:56 so I am stuck driving truck with out front drive line while waiting for someone to manufacture front 4:56 gear ratio... My tires are 36"

Posted
Just now, Alfred Padula said:

People  !!! Front gear ratio change is not available for 2021 Silverado 1500 4X4.  So do not change rear ratio because you cannot change the front !!!. I learned the hard way after having my rear end done to 4:56 . We have contacted many axle rear end shops and they say " NOT AVAILABLE"  NOBODY KNOWS WHEN GEAR SET WILL BE AVAILABLE.. . My rear end is already geared to 4:56 so I am stuck driving truck with out front drive line while waiting for someone to manufacture front 4:56 gear ratio... My tires are 36"

Any help would be greatly appreciated !!!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I'm on the same boat, I've been looking at re-gearing since I'm running 37", no luck finding front gears or lockers, any one has any solutions for this new stile Silverado, I have a trail boss edition

Posted

Rayo, there is no front gearing available as of yet. Rear gears are available but when my 4x4 shop  installed them and a Hypertech  speedo calibrator for the 4:56 rear gears my truck computer would not accept this change. there is no fix as of yet....I drive my truck in Tow/Haul mode all the time which really helps out but this is not a permanent fix.

Posted (edited)

I believe with the front its not a simple ring/pinion swap you have to replace the whole diff. I don't know if the front diff is different on T1's or not, but with the k2's you can go up to 3.73.

 

For some reason I'm thinking the 3.0 diesel has 3.73s, so you should be able to. 

Edited by M1ck3y
Posted
1 hour ago, M1ck3y said:

I believe with the front its not a simple ring/pinion swap you have to replace the whole diff. I don't know if the front diff is different on T1's or not, but with the k2's you can go up to 3.73.

 

For some reason I'm thinking the 3.0 diesel has 3.73s, so you should be able to. 

Take a look at your front diff.  About ten years ago GM went from the split diff style front IFS diffs they had been using to a more conventional (looks like a rear diff with a removable cover) diff.  I believe the ring gear changed then as well.

 

Starting in 2019, after the AAM Co rear axle vibration issue the 14-18 trucks suffered from, GM has started making their own axles again as well as using some AAM Co axles.  That's where the change is.

 

These axles can be regeared just like any other axle.  The aftermarket just hasn't started making gears for the front yet.  The rear axles are pretty much the same internally since 2014.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
32 minutes ago, AJMBLAZER said:

Take a look at your front diff.  About ten years ago GM went from the split diff style front IFS diffs they had been using to a more conventional (looks like a rear diff with a removable cover) diff.  I believe the ring gear changed then as well.

 

Starting in 2019, after the AAM Co rear axle vibration issue the 14-18 trucks suffered from, GM has started making their own axles again as well as using some AAM Co axles.  That's where the change is.

 

These axles can be regeared just like any other axle.  The aftermarket just hasn't started making gears for the front yet.  The rear axles are pretty much the same internally since 2014.

 

Good info, thanks. So your saying the T1's use the same front diff as the k2's?

Posted

I can't confirm that.  I do think that they must have changed something internally on the AAM Co made front axles since it seems like the ring and pinion from the 14-18 trucks won't work.

 

The new GM front axles are not supported by the aftermarket yet.

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted

I know this is an old post but since GM offers the 3.0 Duramax with 3.73's and someone like me who has a 6.2 with 3.42's and has gone up to 35's, going to 3.73's would make up for the tire size difference. (weight and wind resistance is a different story) but at least when towing my 10,000lb toy hauler I'd be slightly better off than where I am today. I'd rather go all the way to a 4.10 but with 3.73's my speedo would be extremely close and I could ditch the Hypertech inline corrector. Thoughts?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, jpfanner said:

I know this is an old post but since GM offers the 3.0 Duramax with 3.73's and someone like me who has a 6.2 with 3.42's and has gone up to 35's, going to 3.73's would make up for the tire size difference. (weight and wind resistance is a different story) but at least when towing my 10,000lb toy hauler I'd be slightly better off than where I am today. I'd rather go all the way to a 4.10 but with 3.73's my speedo would be extremely close and I could ditch the Hypertech inline corrector. Thoughts?

 

I'm in basically the same boat.  See this post in a different thread: 

 I'm actually in slightly worse shape, since my AT4 has factory 3.23 gearing.  I'm at (effectively) a 3.08 gear right now with 35" tires and the stock 3.23's.  The 6.2L and 10-speed trans DO make up for a lot, but 3.73's would get me pretty close to (effectively) stock 3.42 gearing, which is the same thing you're after (and should be perfect for my needs).

While I'm pretty sure rear axle ring/pinion sets are available aftermarket (my rear axle is an SU7; an AAM axle.  SU8 is the GM rear axle)... the big questions revolve around the front axle.  

Rumor has it that GM may be welding (or otherwise permanently attaching) the ring gear to the carrier in the front axles on these trucks.  If that's true (and I've heard it from more than one source) then that may be part of the reason the aftermarket doesn't seem to have any ring/pinion sets available (yet, anyway).

Now I'm not opposed to purchasing a whole front carrier (w/ring) and pinion directly from GM in 3.73 if that's the only way to do it right now, but that brings additional questions into play.  GM is using two different front axles on these trucks.  The SU5 (what I have) is a GM front axle.   And there's also an SU4, an AAM front axle.

 

So, if the 3.73 front ratio is only available with the 3.0L Duramax diesel, which front axle are they putting in those trucks?... and/or... are the internals (ring/pinion/carrier) interchangeable between the AAM and GM axle?  Because if ALL of the Duramax diesel 3.73 geared 4x4 trucks have AAM axles... and the internals are not interchangeable... then even trying to buy 3.73 front gearing direct from GM won't work for me (and my GM front axle).       

 

Just food for thought.  If you come up with a workable solution, please do come back and post it here (I'll do the same).

Edited by barr8888
Posted

The front gears are not “welded to” the front carrier. That’s been disproven many times. There’s pictures around here to prove it. 

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, AJMBLAZER said:

The front gears are not “welded to” the front carrier. That’s been disproven many times. There’s pictures around here to prove it. 

 

It's not my intent to spread misinformation... I'm only citing what I've personally been told by a GM dealership parts person... and have also read elsewhere. 

I acknowledge that it doesn't sound like something that makes any sense to me.  I don't see how the hardness of the ring gear itself could be maintained if any attempt was made to weld it, for one.

 I haven't taken the cover off my front axle to verify anything personally yet.  But finding reliable information and/or parts to change the front axle ratio has been much more of a challenge than I was expecting, so far.

Edited by barr8888
Posted

What happens if you re-gear the rear but not the front?

  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Byrds8 said:

What happens if you re-gear the rear but not the front?

You can’t use 4x4. The tires would be turning at different speeds front and back and as soon as they grabbed traction something would break. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Two interesting tidbits of information which are NOT related were just released.   One, regarding the possible thrust bearing issues / engine failures with the 3.0. Demonworks just did a segment in which they believe they may have found "a" or "the" cause of thrust bearing failures: A missing thrust bearing. If the engine doesn't have all its thrust bearings from the factory, the missing bearing can cause extra play which ends up destroying a nearby thrust bearing which then sends metal through the engine.       Of other importance, Lake Speed Jr released some interest information regarding oil weight selection for the 3.0. Comparisons of:   AcDelco 0w20 Dexos D Mobil 1 ESP x2 0w20 Dexos D Mobil 1 ESP x2 0w30 Mobil 1 ESP x4 0w40. Mobil Delvac 5w40   Spoiler alert: The Mobils are PAO Ester -base and the ACDelco is a Group III base. Mobil shows lower wear in their tests for similar weights. Additive packages between 20-30-40 weight ESP's appear to be the same, but only 0w20 is Dexos D licensed. Wear is even more reduced with 30 and 40 weight ESP although all perform very well and resist shear and provide very similar viscosities within temperature operating ranges in the 3.0.   There are even more surprises, so just go watch it.    
    • Hello Guys I'm new to the form,         I just put a 7-inch Rough Country lift on my 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 with the 5.3 and I also put a Borla exhaust on it. But I noticed when I'm in park or in neutral and then I rev my truck up really quick there is a bad click noise and I think it's coming from the motor somewhere. Anyways I got a video of it I will attach below I was just wondering if you guys think its rod knock or lifter tick or something like that because I know the AFM kind of made the lifters weak on these trucks.       Thanks!!!!! RIP - Chevy 5.3 IMG_6043.mov    
    • We’ll have to agree to disagree. I didn’t experience or know anyone who had a decent car after 100K miles in the 60s through the 80s that were daily commuter vehicles. Unless they were collector vehicles. Of course things cost more due to inflation. But we also make more money. The biggest money drains these days are things people think they need today versus what we require back in the day. Like cell phones and internet as examples. Another example is where you live. Cost of living varies from state to state. I would need twice the money to live in NJ vs Texas in retirement. The car you recently purchased was less than my first car with inflation at 3000$ in 1973. I didn’t have air, electric windows, cruise etc. Purchasing power is equivalent, you just have to do the research. 
    • Sierra HD Pro:   - If you want a power driver's seat on the Pro, you can't get it.  You have to go to SLE.   - Factory remote start?  Can't get it on any of the Sierra Pro trim (1500 or HD).  You have to go SLE.     - 7 inch radio has limitations for replacement if you wanted to upgrade the screen, etc.    - Steering wheel radio controls?  Nope.  Can you add them?  Yes.  NOT CHEAP.  Requires a new instrument cluster, steering wheel and wiring harness mod kit.     - Fog lights?  Nope.  And no factory path to install them.    Sierra HD SLE:   - IMO, the larger radio screen is a much better interface.   - Fog lights?  You can get them.  Steering wheel controls?  Has them.  Remote start?  Yep.  Power driver seat?  Available.       Silverado WT:   - Same as the Pro above however you CAN get factory remote start installed at the dealer for the WT Chevy.     Silverado Custom:   - Comes with 20" wheels only.  Can you swap later?  Sure.  But.  Truck is calibrated for the stock 20s (34" tire) and no path to properly recalibrate.     - Power seat?  Yes.   - Steering wheel controls?  Same as the Pro above.  No but can be done and not cheap.     Silverado LT:   - Same as the SLE.  You can get or it comes with many features you can't do on the lower trims.       I'd say its all going to come down to what you NEED and what you WANT to have that you'd benefit from.  For me, things like power seat is a must (I hate the WT/Pro seating position), so I'd have to go Custom, LT or SLE right out of the gate.  Steering wheel controls?  Should be standard in 2026 across the board IMO, so again, puts me to LT or SLE.  
    • I have a 1500 but the Custom trim. I bought it solely for the simplicity meaning less electronics. I also love the old school gauges. The only thing that I like about the LT better than my Custom is the front grill. Otherwise, absolutely no regrets choosing this trim. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...