Replacement UCA's vs Stamped Steel

[reardiff]

I realize there's a million different posts / opinions on this already and not trying to beat a dead horse, but simply looking for consensus on if replacement UCA's are actually needed or not to add a level vs keeping the stock stamped steel UCA's. My understanding is any truck built after 4/1/16 has stamped steel arms. I have a 2017 with stamped steel, and ready to put on a mild level kit (no more than 2 inch).  I realize you can put this on using stock steel UCA's and it will work as many on here have done this already, however my question what are the real benefits of replacement UCA's vs the stock stamped steel (longer ball joint life, less chance of rubbing, less chance of ball joint failure, etc..)?   If there's real benefit then I'll likely cough up the extra few hundred buck for a new set up UCA's, but if not then why bother?  

 

Per the ReadyLIFT website, they claim GM has stated that no leveling or lift kids should be installed on new model 1500 trucks with the stamped steel UCA's. Is this true or is this simply their claim for marketing?  

"ReadyLIFT now offers a great solution for 2016.5-UP GM 1500 truck owners who want to level trucks with stamped steel suspension. In 2016.5 GM went to a stamped steel upper control arm that is not suited for use with leveling or lift kits. The factory stamped steel control arm has no ball joint support or locking ring to secure the ball joint. GM has stated that no leveling or lift kits should be installed on new model GM 1500 trucks."  

 

Curious to hear the real benefits of replacements  Also, for what it's worth ReadyLIFT 67-3500 UCA's are $291 on Amazon, vs over $400 everywhere else. 

[Hillwood]

I realize there's a million different posts / opinions on this already and not trying to beat a dead horse, but simply looking for consensus on if replacement UCA's are actually needed or not to add a level vs keeping the stock stamped steel UCA's. My understanding is any truck built after 4/1/16 has stamped steel arms. I have a 2017 with stamped steel, and ready to put on a mild level kit (no more than 2 inch).  I realize you can put this on using stock steel UCA's and it will work as many on here have done this already, however my question what are the real benefits of replacement UCA's vs the stock stamped steel (longer ball joint life, less chance of rubbing, less chance of ball joint failure, etc..)?   If there's real benefit then I'll likely cough up the extra few hundred buck for a new set up UCA's, but if not then why bother?  
 
Per the ReadyLIFT website, they claim GM has stated that no leveling or lift kids should be installed on new model 1500 trucks with the stamped steel UCA's. Is this true or is this simply their claim for marketing?  
"ReadyLIFT now offers a great solution for 2016.5-UP GM 1500 truck owners who want to level trucks with stamped steel suspension. In 2016.5 GM went to a stamped steel upper control arm that is not suited for use with leveling or lift kits. The factory stamped steel control arm has no ball joint support or locking ring to secure the ball joint. GM has stated that no leveling or lift kits should be installed on new model GM 1500 trucks."  
 
Curious to hear the real benefits of replacements  Also, for what it's worth ReadyLIFT 67-3500 UCA's are $291 on Amazon, vs over $400 everywhere else. 

As long as you stay at 2 inches you will be fine... no worries..
Make sure you have an alignment done and re aim your headlights!

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[Hillwood]

Ready lift wants to sell their products... Ofcourse they are going to say that!

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[silveradosid]

do 1.5 lift alignment and adjust headlight no worries

[kylant]

ball joint popping out may be a concern. I put Readylifts on for piece of mind. I am swapping them to Cognito. My tire rubs the leading edge, I feel the cognito will clear. 

My Readylifts will be for sale for a good deal shortly 

[crushNchowda]

I've had bilstein 5100's @ top setting + 2.25" rear blocks + 33" tires for 40k miles NO ISSUE other than a bad front wheel bearing which I cant say one way or another the lift contributed to. I do know the bilstein leveling shocks supposedly mitigate the stresses/angles on the front suspension components, so that may be worth looking into instead of a couple of POS plastic or metal puck spacers...........food for thought. Eibach also makes a similar leveling system w/ adjustable shocks & their kit can come w/ replacement front springs too which would also help avoid any issues w/ bushings/ball joints.

[reardiff]

5 hours ago, silveradosid said:

do 1.5 lift alignment and adjust headlight no worries

This is actually what I was planning, 1.5 level and  a set of 275/60/20 KO2's and calling it a day. Nothing to extensive.  I certainly don't want to cheap out and do something half a$$ed but also don't really want to shell out extra money if there's really no need.

 

Appreciate the comments, so it sounds like unless you go with a larger level (over 2 inches) and/or a larger/wider tire the stock UCA's should work.  

 

 

[ray2005]

This is actually what I was planning, 1.5 level and  a set of 275/60/20 KO2's and calling it a day. Nothing to extensive.  I certainly don't want to cheap out and do something half a$$ed but also don't really want to shell out extra money if there's really no need.
 
Appreciate the comments, so it sounds like unless you go with a larger level (over 2 inches) and/or a larger/wider tire the stock UCA's should work.  
 
 

I had a 1.5" level with the stamped control arms and did rub the control arms slightly. I didn't have it aligned right away because I was getting new tires. After alignment it was very minor at full lock.

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[reardiff]

What size tire did you have?  I'm hoping that since I'm not going any wider rubbing would be less of a concern, but I swear there's rub marks on it as it sits now bone stock too. . 

[ray2005]

I had stock then 275/60r20, both rubbed the same. After alignment it wasn't anything I'd worry about.

I ended up getting a deal on control arms so went to a 2.5" lift and rubbed until I got it aligned.

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[ray2005]

ball joint popping out may be a concern. I put Readylifts on for piece of mind. I am swapping them to Cognito. My tire rubs the leading edge, I feel the cognito will clear. 
My Readylifts will be for sale for a good deal shortly 

What size tires are you running and are you on stock wheels?

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[kylant]

58 minutes ago, ray2005 said:

What size tires are you running and are you on stock wheels?

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my stock wheels were 22x8 with +24(6)? offset. stock tires were 285/45-22.

my new wheels are 18x9 with +18 offset (wheel further away from suspension), tires are 285/65-18.

[ray2005]

Which ones rub the control arm or both?

my stock wheels were 22x8 with +24(6)? offset. stock tires were 285/45-22.
my new wheels are 18x9 with +18 offset (wheel further away from suspension), tires are 285/65-18.

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[kylant]

1 minute ago, ray2005 said:

Which ones rub the control arm or both?

 

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I have the Readylift UCA. the stock tires just barely rubbed at full lock. I got the steering stops from a Zone leveling kit and welded them onto the factory steering stop on the lower control arms. after that, there was no rubbing. there was about 1/4" clearance between the tire and arm.

I figured with the new wheels, less offset, and same width tire, the set-up would clear just fine. But the new tire is clearly wider. It is actually the sidewall that is rubbing. the guy at the tire shop said as the sidewall profile gets taller, the tire will bulge out. That is exactly what is happening. and it is only at full lock.

[damnthetorpedoes]

I have a Rough Country 2" with stamped UCA's. Never rubbed with stock tires and doesn't rub with 275 60 20 KO2's. On stock 20" wheels.