Jump to content

Factory 5th wheel prep package

HEPHAESTUS

By HEPHAESTUS
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

HEPHAESTUS Enthusiast

HEPHAESTUS

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi, guys.  New 2017 2500 l5P owner here.  I've driven diesels my entire life but mostly Cummins.  Traded my Ram 3500 recently due to being tired of dealing with all the issues surrounding everything but the Cummins engine.  My Chevy did not come with the factory 5th wheel prep package.  I am trying to re-use my auto-slide hitch from previous truck in this truck and trying to figure out the best way to install it.  I also tow gooseneck trailers so I need that as well.

 

My Ram had the factory prep package and I prefer the square-shank B&W turnover hitch so I easily installed that in the Ram as well.  I used both regularly and it was a setup that I liked.  What I don't like is having permanently installed rails in my bed.

 

1. Is it possible to add the factory prep package?  If so, what parts do I need?  I can't seem to find them anywhere.

 

2. As another option, I've found this:

 

https://www.etrailer.com/p-RP30868.html

 

It basically gives me a factory prep package, but the 4 holes are factory Ford dimensions, not Chevy.  So basically all the hitches meant for the factory Ford package would fit it.  But the only GN that works with it is this one:

 

https://www.etrailer.com/p-RP30158.html

 

Which I don't particularly love.

 

3. I also found this, but it says it doesn't work with slider hitches:

 

https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck-and-Fifth-Wheel-Adapters/Curt/16310.html

 

4. I'm wondering if there are any other options to avoid rails in the bed that I'm missing?

 

Lastly, I did search before posting.  I agree, it seems like this topic has probably been covered a million times already.  Maybe I'm using the wrong spellings or terms or something but nothing is popping up.  Feel free to link me to relative topics if you know of them.

Edited by HEPHAESTUS
greatmizzou Enthusiast

greatmizzou

Posted
Posted

You should probably find a good trailer/truck shop that specializes in towing.  I’d avoid those big box camping world stores for advice.   Look for a truck/semi customizing shop that has a couple  of fifth wheels and RVs outside 

Davidj101 Enthusiast

Davidj101

Posted
Posted

The factory prep package can't be added aftermarket. At least not that I can ascertain. 

 

Which hitch do you currently have? 

 

I have a gooseneck rail adapter for the Curt EZ-Lockr and it worked well with the Curt roller and A16. 

I don't use it anymore because I changed the hitch to an Andersen Ultimate aluminum hitch. 

 

If you're set on the turnover ball I'd suggest installing that in your truck and using the rail adapter you linked above. 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

GM accessories has a 5th wheel package that is aftermarket style, rather than using the factory prep system. 

Don't think they offer the factory version as a 'kit'. 

 

A good parts department person at a dealer should be able to help you order the parts needed to do it yourself. 

Seems like it would be a big project to 'home'.

 

I think if I really wanted the system I'd find or order a truck with it on.

 

 

 

HEPHAESTUS Enthusiast

HEPHAESTUS

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
On 2/17/2019 at 10:06 AM, greatmizzou said:

You should probably find a good trailer/truck shop that specializes in towing.  I’d avoid those big box camping world stores for advice.   Look for a truck/semi customizing shop that has a couple  of fifth wheels and RVs outside 

 

24 minutes ago, redwngr said:

I think if I really wanted the system I'd find or order a truck with it on.

 

 

 

 

Man, you guys are so insightful.   I'm rushing to the dealership to trade my truck in now!  I don't know why I didn't think of just buying a brand new truck to get a trailer hitch!!!   The solution was so simple!

 

51 minutes ago, Davidj101 said:

The factory prep package can't be added aftermarket. At least not that I can ascertain. 

 

Which hitch do you currently have? 

 

I have a gooseneck rail adapter for the Curt EZ-Lockr and it worked well with the Curt roller and A16. 

I don't use it anymore because I changed the hitch to an Andersen Ultimate aluminum hitch. 

 

If you're set on the turnover ball I'd suggest installing that in your truck and using the rail adapter you linked above. 

 

Yes, I've learned that the factory prep package is welded on the frame from the factory, hence the reason it can not be added after the fact.  No big deal though.  There's multiple ways to skin a cat.  The rail adapter to fit the turnover ball is not to be used with slider hitches.  (I have a Demco 21k Auto-Slide.)

 

Don't worry ya'll, I think I have it figured out.  

Edited by HEPHAESTUS
  • Like 1
  • Confused 1
HEPHAESTUS Enthusiast

HEPHAESTUS

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

https://www.gmc.com/gmc-life/trucks/sierra-fifth-wheel-prep-package

 

That's where I read it's welded.

 

It's hard to read your link right now on my phone but some of the pics in that thread appear to me to actually be the Reese elite hitch.  I'll look closer when I'm near a computer in a bit.

 

Edit:  On a computer now.  After reading that thread it does appear to bolt-in.  And I looked at my frame and see the threaded holes clearly meant for it.  Off that gmc.com would state that it is welded.

Edited by HEPHAESTUS
HEPHAESTUS Enthusiast

HEPHAESTUS

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Here is the main hitch for a short bed as far as I can tell:

 

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-f-hitch-84164445

 

But when I pull it up here it says its discontinued:

 

https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-hitch-asm-box-mounted-trlr-84164445.html

 

Link to diagram with part numbers, but apparently the above has superseded the hitch number in the diagram:

 

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/attachments/2011-2016-non-powertrain/889793d1479687661-2016-factory-5th-wheel-hitch-prep-imageandparts_1479687706553.pdf

 

I've already ordered the Reese version for my truck.  The 4 pucks will be Ford dimensions but I don't really care about that.  In fact, it kind of works out better for my specific hitch because Demco makes a smaller, more efficient adapter to the Ford / Reese system than they do the GM.  Here's my eTrailer order that should be here tomorrow:

 

https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck/Reese/RP30158-68.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Custom_Fit_Vehicle_Wiring/Bargman/50-97-410.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories_and_Parts/Demco/DM6033.html

Edited by HEPHAESTUS
MrChips Enthusiast

MrChips

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 2/21/2019 at 8:03 PM, HEPHAESTUS said:

Here is the main hitch for a short bed as far as I can tell:

 

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-f-hitch-84164445

 

But when I pull it up here it says its discontinued:

 

https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/parts/gm-hitch-asm-box-mounted-trlr-84164445.html

 

Link to diagram with part numbers, but apparently the above has superseded the hitch number in the diagram:

 

https://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/attachments/2011-2016-non-powertrain/889793d1479687661-2016-factory-5th-wheel-hitch-prep-imageandparts_1479687706553.pdf

 

I've already ordered the Reese version for my truck.  The 4 pucks will be Ford dimensions but I don't really care about that.  In fact, it kind of works out better for my specific hitch because Demco makes a smaller, more efficient adapter to the Ford / Reese system than they do the GM.  Here's my eTrailer order that should be here tomorrow:

 

https://www.etrailer.com/Gooseneck/Reese/RP30158-68.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Custom_Fit_Vehicle_Wiring/Bargman/50-97-410.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories_and_Parts/Demco/DM6033.html

I installed the factory hitch in my 2018 a year ago and I can tell you that it bolts to the frame. I looked at several new trucks sitting on car lots that came from the factory with the hitch installed and they are identical to what I put on my truck. The install actually was fairly simple, the toughest thing for me was getting past the fact of cutting holes in the bed floor of my brand new truck. GM makes drilling the holes a little bit simpler by putting dimples where the holes go, the first picture is of the slug that came from the hole saw and you can see the dimple indention around the center pilot hole.

After I cut the holes in the bed I painted the edges with some black bed liner to keep it from rusting.

Next thing is I had to remove 8 bolts that hold the box to the frame and then lift the box up about 7" to allow enough clearance to slide the hitch into place.

There's a factory heat shield that has to be removed and it's held in with 4 bolts, the new hitch has a heat shield that fastens to it but it has to be ordered separate.

After sliding the hitch into place it gets fastened into place with (4) bolts on each side, the frame comes with pre-threaded holes in the frame so you don't need nuts.

I just hand tightened the bolts on the hitch and then lowered the bed back down on the frame so I could make sure it lined up with the cut outs in the bed. Once I checked the alignment I torqued the bolts tight.

GM doesn't supply any installation instructions which sucks but I did find a post on another forum from a guy who had made up a step by step process which really helped. I will see if I can find a link to that post and I will share it, here's some pictures of my install. It wouldn't allow me to download anymore than 4 pictures at a time so I will add some more shortly...

 

 

slug.jpg

drill.jpg

paint.jpg

truck.jpg

Edited by MrChips
  • 1 month later...
Gmman Enthusiast

Gmman

Posted
Posted

What size hole saw did you use and did you cut them from the bottom or the top?

MrChips Enthusiast

MrChips

Posted
Posted
On 4/1/2019 at 6:43 AM, Gmman said:

What size hole saw did you use and did you cut them from the bottom or the top?

I will look when I get home tonight to see what size of hole saws I used, I cut them from the top. If you look closely at the bed floor you will see 5 small indented dimples, they are in the exact location where the holes need to be cut. The pilot drill bit on the hole will center up on the dimple nicely. I will let you know what size of hole saws I used later.

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
  • 8 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...