Sport Bar Lighting, Wiring & Switching

[Bear1688]

I have a Go Rhino sport bar in transit,  I believe I will be purchasing (5) Q Series LED pod lights from Rigid Industries. I'd love to see how others have ran their conductors for power, fuses, disconnects,  and cab / interior switch setups. Any and all pictures , and information are greatly appreciated. Youtube and forum searches have been mostly a bust. Interested in what lights you all are running?

 

2016 Silverado Z71 LT Crew Cab

Edited March 4, 2019 by Bear1688

[cr250Silverado]

These aren’t specific to your instal, but are general aux light installs.

 

This seems to be a popular option on this site; 

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/214990-oem-off-road-light-switch-install/

 

I found this one  and it appears to bypass the BCM, and likely the problems some of those with pre 16’ had; 

https://offhighwayequipment.com/silverado-sierra/silverado-sierra-1500-2500-3500-2014-2018-auxiliary-light-switch-kit-single-channel-with-fog-lights/

[Crazyjoker77]

I've added tons of lights to my truck.  Started with adding 2 12" combo beam light bars on the GM sports bar.  These lights are absolute cannons.  Each light pulls 72W

 

 

 

I was super impressed with the lights but there was a big shadow in front of the truck because the cab gets in the way.  So I added the rough country bull bar that has there 20" single row LED bar integrated.  This single light bar is flood optic and draws 90W worth of power.

 

 

 

This now provides a solid wall of light in front of the truck but still decided to add a pair of ditch lights for more side lighting.  This was a very cheap mod.  I got the pair of lights for 25$ and the hood mount brackets where 12$ for the pair.  Each light pod pulls 12W of power but has a very unique optic that makes a very wide beam of light.

 

 

 

Had some leftover leds laying around so I put them in the wheel wells.

 

All the exterior lights are wired up to the factory upfitter switch.  Mounted the relays to the firewall behind the battery.  all the wiring is in plastic conduit and follows the factory harnesses.  I made one of the aux switches work as a master switch that turns on all the lights with the high beams.

 

Also threw some RGB leds under the dash and rear seats.  The controller for the lights are pull power from the driverside fuse panel and the colour/brightness are controlled with a RF remote.  

 

 

[Bear1688]

8 hours ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

I've added tons of lights to my truck.  Started with adding 2 12" combo beam light bars on the GM sports bar.  These lights are absolute cannons.  Each light pulls 72W

 

 

 

I was super impressed with the lights but there was a big shadow in front of the truck because the cab gets in the way.  So I added the rough country bull bar that has there 20" single row LED bar integrated.  This single light bar is flood optic and draws 90W worth of power.

 

 

 

This now provides a solid wall of light in front of the truck but still decided to add a pair of ditch lights for more side lighting.  This was a very cheap mod.  I got the pair of lights for 25$ and the hood mount brackets where 12$ for the pair.  Each light pod pulls 12W of power but has a very unique optic that makes a very wide beam of light.

 

 

 

Had some leftover leds laying around so I put them in the wheel wells.

 

All the exterior lights are wired up to the factory upfitter switch.  Mounted the relays to the firewall behind the battery.  all the wiring is in plastic conduit and follows the factory harnesses.  I made one of the aux switches work as a master switch that turns on all the lights with the high beams.

 

Also threw some RGB leds under the dash and rear seats.  The controller for the lights are pull power from the driverside fuse panel and the colour/brightness are controlled with a RF remote.  

 

 

I did not even think about the factory "upfitter switch" location where the Traction Control switch is. I'd been contemplating housing them in the center console by the 12volt plug and usb devices. Do you mind referencing where you managed to locate those "Aux" labeled auxiliary switches? Did you run loom through your bed rails continuous , under the body with existing harness,  then up to the firewall, or is there something more rigid to protect the conductors? Beautiful build , appreciate the photos and input. 

[Bear1688]

10 hours ago, cr250Silverado said:

These aren’t specific to your instal, but are general aux light installs.

 

This seems to be a popular option on this site; 

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/214990-oem-off-road-light-switch-install/

 

I found this one  and it appears to bypass the BCM, and likely the problems some of those with pre 16’ had; 

https://offhighwayequipment.com/silverado-sierra/silverado-sierra-1500-2500-3500-2014-2018-auxiliary-light-switch-kit-single-channel-with-fog-lights/

Awesome option,  I'm going to research pricing on that switch. May run that as a master override / relay for all added exterior lighting,  then run Aux paddle switches like Crazyjoker77 for each location/ style to be individually controlled. Both are much more aesthetically pleasing than my initial thoughts. Thank you very much.

[Bear1688]

Does anyone have specific names or links that could be provided to either switch options mentioned above? If I locate them I will also post them here for future. New to this forum, do they often archive here? Do all threads remain in place or do they get cleared often? 

 

 

Realized the OEM next to fog offroad light, dial switch part information is in the video at the start of the thread. 

GM - 23458495 (2016 Red backlight)

GM - 84168423 (2017 Blue backlight)

Edited March 4, 2019 by Bear1688

[cr250Silverado]

45 minutes ago, Bear1688 said:

Awesome option,  I'm going to research pricing on that switch. May run that as a master override / relay for all added exterior lighting,  then run Aux paddle switches like Crazyjoker77 for each location/ style to be individually controlled. Both are much more aesthetically pleasing than my initial thoughts. Thank you very much.

A suggestion: if you wire the OEM switch to the BCM there is a time period you must wait (5 or so secs) between turning lights on to turning the lights off, but if you go with the extra console option in the 2nd post I *think* it will be immediate. The good with the BCM option is it will light up the off road lights activated light on the dash (next to high beams). I plan on wiring to BCM and using the wire to power multiple relays for multiple forward lights. You can also place those lights on individual switches which only power on when the BCM light switch is activated, just extra wiring/switches. I found this custom 3 switch panel, it’s engraved for nitro but I’m sure there is a way to change it; 

https://www.nitrousexpress.com/15789-2014-up-silverado-custom-switch-panel.html

[cr250Silverado]

Watch this video for the OEM switch info.

 

https://youtu.be/4fESc7THdsQ

 

Big thanks to Tinkering Fox for making this extremely informative video about buying the correct OEM switch and installing it!

 

I bought the custom wiring harness from Pgamboa, $35. 

 

 

[Crazyjoker77]

9 hours ago, Bear1688 said:

I did not even think about the factory "upfitter switch" location where the Traction Control switch is. I'd been contemplating housing them in the center console by the 12volt plug and usb devices. Do you mind referencing where you managed to locate those "Aux" labeled auxiliary switches? Did you run loom through your bed rails continuous , under the body with existing harness,  then up to the firewall, or is there something more rigid to protect the conductors? Beautiful build , appreciate the photos and input. 

 

 

part number for the switch that I used is 23145158 and was 61.69cad.

 

If you want a full factory upfitter switch setup its going to have to buy a lot more parts than just the switch.  Basically all new harnesses and a under hood fuse box as most of the trucks don't have the right one.  Its simple enough to get the switches to work with some standard automotive relays though which is the route I took. 

 

The factory wires don't go into the frame rails they're just beside them on the drivers side.  So i just followed them and zip tied along the way.  The factory uses that plastic split loom so that's all I used.  

 

To get through the firewall I again went through the same place the factory did which is on the drivers side and has a big rubber boot.  Take the harness tape off and shove a coat hanger alongside the factory loom.  Then inside I unbolted the 3 bolts on the big black junction in the drivers side food well and flop it off to the side to give me some room to tape the wires to the end of the coat hanger.

[Bear1688]

13 hours ago, cr250Silverado said:

A suggestion: if you wire the OEM switch to the BCM there is a time period you must wait (5 or so secs) between turning lights on to turning the lights off, but if you go with the extra console option in the 2nd post I *think* it will be immediate. The good with the BCM option is it will light up the off road lights activated light on the dash (next to high beams). I plan on wiring to BCM and using the wire to power multiple relays for multiple forward lights. You can also place those lights on individual switches which only power on when the BCM light switch is activated, just extra wiring/switches. I found this custom 3 switch panel, it’s engraved for nitro but I’m sure there is a way to change it; 

https://www.nitrousexpress.com/15789-2014-up-silverado-custom-switch-panel.html

I like that NX option as well, I do have the towing / brake assist options in that location on mine sadly. I agree that the OEM through BCM switch (even with the wait duration) is the most aesthetically pleasing.  I thoroughly enjoy that is has a dash indicator as well. Im most likely going that route to get everything (5 pod lights) started and run by just that switch,  until I locate those AUX paddle switches and have them control the differing sets (2 outer pods being Diffused controlled together,  and 3 inner being Floods tied together). I'd love to set a couple slim diffused rear facing hanging under the sport bar , on either side of the third brake light, as better scene / reverse/ cargo lights not controlled by the oem master, but on an auxiliary. Time and money will tell, same goes for how this Go Rhino bar is configured. Thank you

[Bear1688]

13 hours ago, cr250Silverado said:

Watch this video for the OEM switch info.

 

https://youtu.be/4fESc7THdsQ

 

Big thanks to Tinkering Fox for making this extremely informative video about buying the correct OEM switch and installing it!

 

I bought the custom wiring harness from Pgamboa, $35. 

 

 

I'm very new here and have seen Pgamboa's name many times already,  particularly in the LTZ headlight and taillight areas. Seems like an awesome individual. I'm an electrician by trade, but honestly love supporting those that make a great product,  are outstanding to the community,  and make my life and installation easier. Lol

[Bear1688]

4 hours ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

 

 

part number for the switch that I used is 23145158 and was 61.69cad.

 

If you want a full factory upfitter switch setup its going to have to buy a lot more parts than just the switch.  Basically all new harnesses and a under hood fuse box as most of the trucks don't have the right one.  Its simple enough to get the switches to work with some standard automotive relays though which is the route I took. 

 

The factory wires don't go into the frame rails they're just beside them on the drivers side.  So i just followed them and zip tied along the way.  The factory uses that plastic split loom so that's all I used.  

 

To get through the firewall I again went through the same place the factory did which is on the drivers side and has a big rubber boot.  Take the harness tape off and shove a coat hanger alongside the factory loom.  Then inside I unbolted the 3 bolts on the big black junction in the drivers side food well and flop it off to the side to give me some room to tape the wires to the end of the coat hanger.

Perfect,  great information. It's been a busy weekend and week already and I haven't had a chance to get under it yet to view my route. As for the bed / sport bar area, are most running between cab and bed? Without getting underneath (and very recently purchasing my vehicle,  not being very familiar,  and never working with trucks but small coupes) I was thinking I may have to run all the way to the rear of the bed, come up where the tail light harness ends, then run up under the bed railing back to the sport bar to keep it concealed,  not exposed to physical damage. 

 

On a dumb side note, are you aware of anyone drilling drain holes in the bed , close to the cab? I park on a steep driveway and it often pools water. 

[Crazyjoker77]

1 hour ago, Bear1688 said:

Perfect,  great information. It's been a busy weekend and week already and I haven't had a chance to get under it yet to view my route. As for the bed / sport bar area, are most running between cab and bed? Without getting underneath (and very recently purchasing my vehicle,  not being very familiar,  and never working with trucks but small coupes) I was thinking I may have to run all the way to the rear of the bed, come up where the tail light harness ends, then run up under the bed railing back to the sport bar to keep it concealed,  not exposed to physical damage. 

 

On a dumb side note, are you aware of anyone drilling drain holes in the bed , close to the cab? I park on a steep driveway and it often pools water. 

 

Again I followed the factory harness (went to my integrated 3rd brake light in the sports bar).  The factory harness goes through the front left stake hole and comes out under the truck.  I pulled the wire from the lights down into the sports bar then through the stake hole to the underside of the truck then followed the factory harness to the engine bay.   It was a bit of a pain feeding the wire down the stake hole as there are lots of lips and the gas filler tube in the way.  Probably would of went easier if I did jack the truck up or had a second set of hands to help fish it down.  It would be even more difficult trying to get the wires from the underside up to the stake hole.

 

 

I've got the factory spray in bed-liner so I don't really care if the water pools.

[Bear1688]

8 hours ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

 

Again I followed the factory harness (went to my integrated 3rd brake light in the sports bar).  The factory harness goes through the front left stake hole and comes out under the truck.  I pulled the wire from the lights down into the sports bar then through the stake hole to the underside of the truck then followed the factory harness to the engine bay.   It was a bit of a pain feeding the wire down the stake hole as there are lots of lips and the gas filler tube in the way.  Probably would of went easier if I did jack the truck up or had a second set of hands to help fish it down.  It would be even more difficult trying to get the wires from the underside up to the stake hole.

 

 

I've got the factory spray in bed-liner so I don't really care if the water pools.

Got it, again more awesome information. Now I just need to order some loom , and the oem switch. With ath in mind, van set everything in motion once everything arrives. Thank you everyone for all the very useful knowledge. 

[Crankycolnago]

On 3/3/2019 at 9:04 PM, Crazyjoker77 said:

I've added tons of lights to my truck.  Started with adding 2 12" combo beam light bars on the GM sports bar.  These lights are absolute cannons.  Each light pulls 72W

 

 

 

I was super impressed with the lights but there was a big shadow in front of the truck because the cab gets in the way.  So I added the rough country bull bar that has there 20" single row LED bar integrated.  This single light bar is flood optic and draws 90W worth of power.

 

 

 

This now provides a solid wall of light in front of the truck but still decided to add a pair of ditch lights for more side lighting.  This was a very cheap mod.  I got the pair of lights for 25$ and the hood mount brackets where 12$ for the pair.  Each light pod pulls 12W of power but has a very unique optic that makes a very wide beam of light.

 

 

 

Had some leftover leds laying around so I put them in the wheel wells.

 

All the exterior lights are wired up to the factory upfitter switch.  Mounted the relays to the firewall behind the battery.  all the wiring is in plastic conduit and follows the factory harnesses.  I made one of the aux switches work as a master switch that turns on all the lights with the high beams.

 

Also threw some RGB leds under the dash and rear seats.  The controller for the lights are pull power from the driverside fuse panel and the colour/brightness are controlled with a RF remote.  

 

 

What lights did you use for the interior ? I was thinking of doing something like that conected to the dash lights so it can dim and also put a switch in between for when I want them off altogether .