Jump to content

autostop eliminator

kent sparrow
 Share

Recommended Posts

Thomcat Senior Enthusiast

Thomcat

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, FDHog said:

Manufacturer should've made it a toggle switch.

Well that's the trick isn't it? Was a momentary switch instead of a toggle placed there on purpose and if so why, to meet technicalities of CAFE requirements or simply because GM wanted to break customers' ba!!s....?

 

S/s is so intrusive onto the guts of the vehicle, it may have been done on purpose to trigger a diagnostic or flexing phase of system components normally flexed on startup to prevent damage from long term disuse. It's not just the hd starter and split solenoid, not just the pressure maintenance systems in the tranny, but other crazy kludges to keep the vehicle in operation/readiness during a stop cycle like the aux. electrical vacuum pump for brake booster, aux electric circulator pump for the coolant, high energy electrical capacitors, DC-DC inverter for maintaining constant voltage to accessories, servos for maintaining oil pressure on the lifters, etc., etc. when engine is in a stop cycle.

 

Absent a written assurance from any gizmo maker that they will make good for paying the cost for repair of any damage attributed by a GM dealer to the gizmo as grounds for invalidating the warranty (whether or not a valid claim). I'll pass on this and give the s/s button the finger when I feel like it.

  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

JacobC1983
JacobC1983

You are really blowing this out of proportion.  I am sure they will refund you if you are really that upset about it.  I never had any issues with mine.  I already replaced mine and sent the "bad" uni

Jessica Lambert
Jessica Lambert

I’m sorry, but in order to maintain our competitive advantage we can’t share the exact details of the changes. Please understand that in spite of extensive testing, undetected issues can exist. The pr

Jessica Lambert
Jessica Lambert

I can give the forum members here a coupon code for 10% off. Anyone can now use coupon code GMTRUCKS at checkout to save 10% on the Autostop Eliminator through June 30.  https://www.autostopeliminator

Posted Images

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
Well that's the trick isn't it? Was a momentary switch instead of a toggle placed there on purpose and if so why, to meet technicalities of CAFE requirements or simply because GM wanted to break customers' ba!!s....?
 
S/s is so intrusive onto the guts of the vehicle, it may have been done on purpose to trigger a diagnostic or flexing phase of system components normally flexed on startup to prevent damage from long term disuse. It's not just the hd starter and split solenoid, not just the pressure maintenance systems in the tranny, but other crazy kludges to keep the vehicle in operation/readiness during a stop cycle like the aux. electrical vacuum pump for brake booster, aux electric circulator pump for the coolant, high energy electrical capacitors, DC-DC inverter for maintaining constant voltage to accessories, servos for maintaining oil pressure on the lifters, etc., etc. when engine is in a stop cycle.
 
Absent a written assurance from any gizmo maker that they will make good for paying the cost for repair of any damage attributed by a GM dealer to the gizmo as grounds for invalidating the warranty (whether or not a valid claim). I'll pass on this and give the s/s button the finger when I feel like it.

I haven’t done much research in to stop-start admittedly. I wouldn’t buy it. You apparently have. So I’ve read that simply putting your vehicle on max ac defeats the process. Wouldn’t that be the same as a switch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
FDHog Enthusiast

FDHog

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, KARNUT said:


I haven’t done much research in to stop-start admittedly. I wouldn’t buy it. You apparently have. So I’ve read that simply putting your vehicle on max ac defeats the process. Wouldn’t that be the same as a switch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not everyone lives in Texas. I'm not running my A/C in January in the Northeast.

You guys do what you want. It's just a switch. 

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
Not everyone lives in Texas. I'm not running my A/C in January in the Northeast.
You guys do what you want. It's just a switch. 

That was the question [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thomcat Senior Enthusiast

Thomcat

Posted
Posted
On 7/29/2019 at 8:48 AM, KARNUT said:


I haven’t done much research in to stop-start admittedly. I wouldn’t buy it. You apparently have. So I’ve read that simply putting your vehicle on max ac defeats the process. Wouldn’t that be the same as a switch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe with a manual HVAC, but the automatic A/C will no longer defeat s/s once interior reaches set temp reaches temperature.

 

Without a switch only positive way that works all the time is to put it in L and use the toggle to go to the max gear. I place in L9 on the Traverse or L8 on the Silvy and it is in full automatic operation without s/s activating. Or if you have a sore finger, wait until vehicle in Drive shifts to top gear and drop from D to L on the fly and you're automatically in L6 or L8 depending upon the tranny.

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
Maybe with a manual HVAC, but the automatic A/C will no longer defeat s/s once interior reaches set temp reaches temperature.
 
Without a switch only positive way that works all the time is to put it in L and use the toggle to go to the max gear. I place in L9 on the Traverse or L8 on the Silvy and it is in full automatic operation without s/s activating. Or if you have a sore finger, wait until vehicle in Drive shifts to top gear and drop from D to L on the fly and you're automatically in L6 or L8 depending upon the tranny.

That’s even better. Before a tune on my 14, that’s what I did to keep the cylinder deactivation off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Cpl_Punishment Senior Enthusiast

Cpl_Punishment

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Thomcat said:

Maybe with a manual HVAC, but the automatic A/C will no longer defeat s/s once interior reaches set temp reaches temperature.

 

Without a switch only positive way that works all the time is to put it in L and use the toggle to go to the max gear. I place in L9 on the Traverse or L8 on the Silvy and it is in full automatic operation without s/s activating. Or if you have a sore finger, wait until vehicle in Drive shifts to top gear and drop from D to L on the fly and you're automatically in L6 or L8 depending upon the tranny.

Stupid question but you don't have to use automatic HVAC, do you? I absolutely hate that "feature" in my car. 

Edited by Cpl_Punishment
Fuelie Enthusiast

Fuelie

Posted
Posted

I see Range has released their AS eliminator, it sure would be nicer to just unplug if your truck goes in for service.

Tom

NHAT4 Enthusiast

NHAT4

Posted
Posted

Selling my new unused Autostop eliminator   shipped for $70  PM me,  paypal only...

Thomcat Senior Enthusiast

Thomcat

Posted
Posted
On 7/31/2019 at 10:34 AM, Cpl_Punishment said:

Stupid question but you don't have to use automatic HVAC, do you? I absolutely hate that "feature" in my car. 

Didn't buy a blown out RST so I could play with a manual HVAC, mine works just fine - besides keeps the wife off my a$$ - she can keep her vents blowing warmer while I go Eskimo.

Cpl_Punishment Senior Enthusiast

Cpl_Punishment

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Thomcat said:

Didn't buy a blown out RST so I could play with a manual HVAC, mine works just fine - besides keeps the wife off my a$$ - she can keep her vents blowing warmer while I go Eskimo.

Maybe it's a problem with my car but no matter which vents I have blowing, it will switch to the floor vents when I accidentally hit the auto button. I want my face cold, not my feet. 

 

I assume you can still have two zones going even with manual air conditioning. 

Thomcat Senior Enthusiast

Thomcat

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Cpl_Punishment said:

Maybe it's a problem with my car but no matter which vents I have blowing, it will switch to the floor vents when I accidentally hit the auto button. I want my face cold, not my feet. 

 

I assume you can still have two zones going even with manual air conditioning. 

Just doesn't sound normal. On AUTO when calling for A/C with the cabin temp higher 80% of flow comes from the upper vents with 20% on the floor; when on Heat and cabin temperature lower 70% floor, 20% upper vents and 10% defroster vents; when set A/C or Heat is at cabin temperature the fan slows to a crawl at from all vents. One or more vents will work in Manual depending upon which button(s) are pushed. Three zone Traverse and Two zone Malibu automatic HVACs work the same way.

 

You may still have two zones on Manual but they are both pushing air at the same velocity, AUTO bleeds air from multiple doors depending upon zone.. When set temps differ and passenger temp, e.g.70 deg cabin is satisfied, passenger air flow settles to a crawl while drivers set to 60 deg continues to blow at full force out of driver's vents.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 weeks later...
rosepaule Enthusiast

rosepaule

Posted
Posted
On 6/15/2019 at 11:44 AM, Jessica Lambert said:

Thanks! Here is a link that contains printable instructions AND an installation video. https://www.autostopeliminator.com/installation-19-gm-silverado-sierra.html  It took under 13 minutes when we did it for the video. We show every step.

 

Various customers have told us it took them anywhere between 15 minutes to an hour when doing it themselves. On average, we hear 25-30 minutes from most people watching the video as they install the product. Some customers have left relevant information in their product reviews here: https://www.autostopeliminator.com/store/p12/silverado-sierra-ae004.html

 

Please check it out and let us know if you have any questions. You can also email us at [email protected] or contact us through our contact page on the website.

Jessica, your instructions that are posted dont account for those with the Bose system which has the subwoofer in the center console. Do you have instructions for those yet?

Limelight Enthusiast

Limelight

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, rosepaule said:

Jessica, your instructions that are posted dont account for those with the Bose system which has the subwoofer in the center console. Do you have instructions for those yet?

I have the Bose. The instructions worked just fine. 

I love my ASE. 

rosepaule Enthusiast

rosepaule

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, Limelight said:

I have the Bose. The instructions worked just fine. 

I love my ASE. 

Yup.  I got it with the help of Travis Lambert. I had to go hulk smash on the center console, that thing that really clipped in there

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • GAMark
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By GAMark · Posted

      Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • Erfar
      Oil Change

      By Erfar · Posted

      have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • KARNUT
      OCI, not when but why?

      By KARNUT · Posted

      That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Engine Wear and ISO 4406   1.) Cold Starts. 2.) High Particle Count. 3.) Low operating temperature viscosity and high low temperature cranking viscosity. 4.) Depleted AW, Friction and Acid packages.  5.) High engine load.    https://me.caltexlubricants.com/en_me/home/learning/from-chevron/heavy-duty-diesel-vehicles-and-equipment/The-Importance-of-Clean-Engine-Oil-and-Its-Impact-on-Equipment-and-Business-Performance.html   High particle counts have five sources. 1.) They are manufactured within the engine. Both wear debris and amalgamation of degradation products and combustion driven soot (worse in GDI). 2.) They are ingested via intake air. Ever hear the best oil filter is a good air filter? 3.) They are entrained in the fuel. 4.) This one is insidious. They are introduced in 'fresh oil'. 5.) They are introduced during the oil change.   ISO 4406 is the test that measures and quantifies the combine effects of all of the above particle related issues. You can mitigate your way into multiples of engine life by being attentive to them all.    https://www.hyprofiltration.com/blog/is-new-oil-clean   (from the link above)    [Quote] What Is the Recommended ISO 4406 Cleanliness Code for New Oil?   A good upper limit for new oil cleanliness is 16/14/11 (ISO 4406). Typical new oil usually has ISO codes of 19/17/15 or worse, which is far too dirty for sensitive components. This can be a major cause of degradation and premature failure. [Close quote].     Source of graph: Machinery Lubrication (GM Study)  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...