Jump to content

Painted fender flares

Jmac572

By Jmac572
in Modifications, Wheels & Tires

 Share

Recommended Posts

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
On 8/21/2021 at 5:52 AM, DarkSky20 said:

Here’s mine in Dark Sky metallic. Found them for sale on eBay from a gm dealer. Easy diy install, save your money. Denali models should have come this way from the factory 

F28751EB-823D-43CB-B1E9-76787D5EB671.jpeg

That is a great looking truck!

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

gothp28
gothp28

Hear is mine in black. I like them! Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

TxTruckMan
TxTruckMan

Well, I found a good deal on these so I pulled the trigger.  They fit with the larger splash guards no problem.  I think they look pretty good.  They make the wheel wells look smaller and the stock ti

Jmac572
Jmac572

I just got them installed and they came out great. It was actually super easy but I broke about 1/4 of the old clips when removing them from the truck. The new ones come set up with all new clips. For

Posted Images

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted
On 8/22/2021 at 9:27 AM, DarkSky20 said:

As I’ve stated and it’s painfully clear in my pic, these are the stock wheel well moldings paint matched. Ask someone with fender flares

It's painfully clear you don't get the fact that you can't remove salt from behind the flare once installed. That's my point.

  • 1 month later...
TxTruckMan Senior Enthusiast

TxTruckMan

Posted
Posted

Anybody got pictures of a white AT4 with the painted wheel well liners?

 

And does anybody know if these can be installed with the larger GM splash guards?

TxTruckMan Senior Enthusiast

TxTruckMan

Posted
Posted

Trying again.

 

The GMC build site says that the painted fender flares and the larger GMC splash guards cannot be installed together.  Anybody know why or if this is correct?


Thanks.

TxTruckMan Senior Enthusiast

TxTruckMan

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well, I found a good deal on these so I pulled the trigger.  They fit with the larger splash guards no problem.  I think they look pretty good.  They make the wheel wells look smaller and the stock tires look bigger.

 

BEFORE:

 

AT4-2 medium.jpg

 

AFTER:

 

AT4-5 medium.jpg

AT4-6 medium.jpg

Edited by TxTruckMan
  • Like 3
TNTSierra Senior Enthusiast

TNTSierra

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, TxTruckMan said:

Well, I found a good deal on these so I pulled the trigger.  They fit with the larger splash guards no problem.  I think they look pretty good.  They make the wheel wells look smaller and the stock tires look bigger.

 

BEFORE:

 

AT4-2 medium.jpg

 

AFTER:

 

AT4-5 medium.jpg

AT4-6 medium.jpg

Looks really good. You going to paint the mud guards to match now?  I think all white would look great but will they hold up in the winter, depending on where you live of course. 

TxTruckMan Senior Enthusiast

TxTruckMan

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, TNTSilverado said:

Looks really good. You going to paint the mud guards to match now?  I think all white would look great but will they hold up in the winter, depending on where you live of course. 

Thanks. No. Not gonna paint the splash guards. That would be too hard to keep clean. 

Nasen Soileau Enthusiast

Nasen Soileau

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, TxTruckMan said:

Well, I found a good deal on these so I pulled the trigger.  They fit with the larger splash guards no problem.  I think they look pretty good.  They make the wheel wells look smaller and the stock tires look bigger.

 

BEFORE:

 

AT4-2 medium.jpg

 

AFTER:

 

AT4-5 medium.jpg

AT4-6 medium.jpg

Looks so much better. Don’t know why they don’t come this way from the factory. 
 

where did you find this good deal? I’m ready to pull the trigger as well. 

TxTruckMan Senior Enthusiast

TxTruckMan

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Nasen Soileau said:

Looks so much better. Don’t know why they don’t come this way from the factory. 
 

where did you find this good deal? I’m ready to pull the trigger as well. 

eBay. $500 shipped. 
 

I agree. Especially for Denali and color matched trims. I can see having the gray plastic on lower trims. Maybe gray fits for the off road perception?  But it definitely looks cleaner and better color matched. 

Edited by TxTruckMan
Nasen Soileau Enthusiast

Nasen Soileau

Posted
Posted
Just now, TxTruckMan said:

eBay. $500 shipped. 

Thanks. I looked around eBay with the GM part number and didn’t find any. That would be the best price so far. Mind sharing a lil more?

TxTruckMan Senior Enthusiast

TxTruckMan

Posted
Posted

There haven’t been a lot. They come and go. I just save a search with alerts for the part number i needed. This deal came up and I snatched it. I’ll post a link to the seller. 

Nasen Soileau Enthusiast

Nasen Soileau

Posted
Posted
Just now, TxTruckMan said:

Let’s see if this works. 
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/84269333-Front-and-Rear-fender-Flare-Set-Summit-White-/353684594856?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Awesome. Thank you. I’ve never used the alert feature on eBay before. Been a member since ‘99!

  • Like 1
Delson0 Enthusiast

Delson0

Posted
Posted
On 10/10/2021 at 6:58 PM, TxTruckMan said:

Let’s see if this works. 
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/84269333-Front-and-Rear-fender-Flare-Set-Summit-White-/353684594856?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0


these match your paint pretty well? Came painted from the factory in a GM box? 
thinking about finally buying them too as it’s cheaper than what I’ve found when looking.

Thanks

brisk00 Enthusiast

brisk00

Posted
Posted

I wonder if they will ever release these in Satin Steel.  I'd rather do that than take them somewhere to get painted. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...