Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just curious if anyone has used the bed power outlet? It does not operate when the truck is turned off. I am thinking about getting the rear tent and that outlet would be nice if it was functional when the truck is off.  So what Is it’s utility since it does not have its own battery source? Thx

Posted

I feel the exact same way, bought it because the idea of camping in the back of the truck was appealing then I discovered the plug doesn't even work when it's off, not even if I use the keyless to start the engine either.

Posted

maybe either check the owners manual or phone the dealer and find out if it can easily be changed over to getting always on power.  I recall that in the past, there was some power outlet (might have been just a 12V) that had an easy method for switching between key-on power and always-on power.

 

Actually, there probably isn't a way to do it, unless there is a switch in the outlet to notice when something is plugged in, to turn on the inverter.  If the inverter were always on, it would drain the battery.  You probably will have to re-wire the inverter to get power with the key off, with a remote switch near the outlet for convenience to turn the inverter on and off, maybe with a timer so you don't kill your battery in the middle of nowhere leaving it on.

Posted

12V is always-on. Says so in my manual. Now, I could use the keyless ignition to start the engine but I'd have to be inside the truck to push the brake.

Posted

Pretty sure it will operate when the engine is OFF, but the ignition is on. (e.g. when you push the button but do not start it.) 

 

Posted

On my F-150, the remote start didn't activate the 110V plugs.. major disappointment there.

 

It didn't work with my Silverado either. It looks like it has to be in the on position or with engine running.

Posted
9 minutes ago, O Town Denali said:

Truck must be running

 

And not by remote start which I verified. It would be great if I could, start it up, start a coffee machine, turn it off.. well, I know it can't go over 400W though. I thought I could do that to quick charge a phone but that seems to be out. Would be convenient though.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

So basically, the bed power outlet is only realistically useful if I need to charge something in the bed while driving.  Kind of a pointless option I guess.....

Posted

Well that's a real bummer to find out.   There has to be a way to bypass that. 

Posted

Yall are so negative! What about the option to "blend up some smoothies while you're waiting for the game to start"?! ?

 

Basically, GM's bed outlet is the same as Honda Ridgeline's. So if you're wondering what you can actually do with it, here you go... 

 

 

Posted

I'd use a 12V cigarette lighter do-hickey for charging a phone, as they are cheap, and most trucks have an always-on plug.  And it'll likely be more efficient as well, as there less conversions (12V to about 5V vs 12VDC to 110VAC to 5VDC).

Posted
5 hours ago, econometrics said:

Yall are so negative! What about the option to "blend up some smoothies while you're waiting for the game to start"?! ?

 

Basically, GM's bed outlet is the same as Honda Ridgeline's. So if you're wondering what you can actually do with it, here you go... 

 

 

The dude in that video is such a dork. Lmao

 

sorry couldn’t resist.  CARRY ON!

  • Haha 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 372 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...