Transmission Fluid Advice

[Ozer]

Dang, wish i had seen this before. I did the flush at GM dealer at 88k miles, i bought the truck at 82k and didnt know if it was ever done.

Fast forward to 125k and i had the shudders and basically the TC went, i ended up getting tho whole trans rebuilt with upgrades not at dealer. $2700 cash vs $5000 dealer price for another

'New" GM trans.

 

Hard to prove the flush caused the issue so they probably do it to get future trans service jobs, scammers!! 

[1SLOW1500]

This was available to me when I did my trans but was told by sources it isn't the fluid that is killing these trans. And mine is different parts and set up different anyways.
Same is true with engine oil there is a better oil gm and 3rd party contractors in performance and engine testing use. But gm hasn't officially switched to that for public.
Time tells all tales.....

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[royalkangaroo]

1 hour ago, sk said:

Just FYI -- GM now calls for an updated fluid.  I don't remember all the specifics but it's supposed to help with the "shift jerkiness" of these transmissions.  The TSB just came out a few weeks ago.  Supposedly the bottles are similar but the dealers were given detailed info on which fluid to use and how to get rid of any remaining inventory of the previous fluid.

 

Here is the info:

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=11127

Looks like it only applies to the 8 speed transmissions.

[Black02Silverado]

At 50k a pan drop and filter/fluid change will work well.  As stated, get a pan with a drain plug and then at each oil change change out the fluid in the transmission as well for the next 4 to 5 changes.  It will keep the fluid fresh and it is easy to do since you will have a drain plug. 

 

I was going to get a stock pan and put a plug in it myself.  I know a guy that can Tig weld. So it will be a nice clean and sealed weld.

[truckguy82]

I know it sounds tedious, but it was really super easy. It’s for sure slightly less labor than getting under the truck and draining.

 

suck it out of the dipstick with a handpump, then add it back in. I’m my memory serves me it was like 4-4.5 quarts each time.

 

you just need the handpump off amazon

[Grumpy Bear]

The top line off the thermostat is the pump outlet on the 6L80E. The side with the "C" clip.  Flip the pill to bypass the thermostatic feature. The cooler holds near nothing. If it bothers you, blow it out with air. This thermostat DOES NOT HAVE a minimum flow bypass. The V-6 has a thermostat. Did I miss anything? Oh, yea......listen to Black02Silverado

54 minutes ago, Black02Silverado said:

At 50k a pan drop and filter/fluid change will work well.  As stated, get a pan with a drain plug and then at each oil change, change out the fluid in the transmission as well for the next 4 to 5 changes.  It will keep the fluid fresh and it is easy to do since you will have a drain plug. 

 

The system holds between 12 and 13 quarts. The factory pan drop replaces 6 quarts. The factory replacement PML pan also replaces 6 quarts. The DEEP PML pan holds 8 quarts. 6 changes of the 6 quart pans will replace 99.75% of the OEM fluid charge. 4 will get you 98.17%. 

[royalkangaroo]

The top line off the thermostat is the pump outlet on the 6L80E. The side with the "C" clip.  Flip the pill to bypass the thermostatic feature. The cooler holds near nothing. If it bothers you, blow it out with air. This thermostat DOES NOT HAVE a minimum flow bypass. The V-6 has a thermostat. Did I miss anything? Oh, yea......listen to Black02Silverado
The system holds between 12 and 13 quarts. The factory pan drop replaces 6 quarts. The factory replacement PML pan also replaces 6 quarts. The DEEP PML pan holds 8 quarts. 6 changes of the 6 quart pans will replace 99.75% of the OEM fluid charge. 4 will get you 98.17%. 

You have the PML pan, correct? Is there any fitment issues when installing the PML pan vs the factory one? It almost looks like the narrow section of the pan that sits above the exhaust is slightly thicker than the factory one, at least in the picture they show. Their site states you may need to drop the exhaust to install, not sure if they mean at the headers or not.




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[Grumpy Bear]

1 hour ago, royalkangaroo said:

 

 

You have the PML pan, correct? Is there any fitment issues when installing the PML pan vs the factory one? It almost looks like the narrow section of the pan that sits above the exhaust is slightly thicker than the factory one, at least in the picture they show. Their site states you may need to drop the exhaust to install, not sure if they mean at the headers or not.




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Yes, PML. No issues. Very straight forward. Removing the pipe would be easier but Jason managed without doing so. Yes it is thicker at the flange and no, it isn't a problem. You can reuse the gasket. Comes with longer hardware. Mine is the one on the far left. I bought a raw cast and used BBQ paint. Over a year ago and still looks show. 

[flyingfool]

On 8/6/2019 at 8:04 AM, 1SLOW1500 said:

51k and original fluid. Oh boy
No question at all pan drop. Filter and fluid. But wait there is more....remove inspect the magnet and clean it then run all extra fuild out. You never get it all with the converter and all the stock lines and coolers. Now replace magnet an filter reinstall pan and fill. But do the fuild reset and a trans relearn.
I do not believe in the flush. Unless there has been a magnet clean off and lower mileage flushes.
Dealer doesn't much care they assume you will just get out of and warranty before trans goes.


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How do i do a trans re-learn and a fluid reset after the filter change?

[1SLOW1500]

good question and hard to answer as there is many ways to do it. with my software I can just push the button and it resets it. But there is also a manual way. also where are many other "how to" for getting all the fluid in all the little parts of the trans. and these trucks are sensitive to over fill. even with the overfill reservoir. And if overfilled it is hard on the converter pump and input seal. so you may see fluid drip out of the inspection holes on bottom of the bell housing.  

http://etereman.com/blog/transmission-care/resetting-shift-adapts-is-it-necessary-after-installing-a-rebuilt-transmission

[sk]

23 hours ago, M-Wheeler said:

Ummm...same stuff as I just posted above.

Yeah I think we were posting at the same time 

 

22 hours ago, royalkangaroo said:

Looks like it only applies to the 8 speed transmissions.

The TSB says that but some people with 6 speeds have gotten the dealer to swap the fluid and have seen improvements.

[M-Wheeler]

Mine is a 6 speed and I see a tremendous improvement in upshift firmness, no downshift clunking and no more "flares". Have 12,500 miles on this swap, no issues. 

 

Although I did a flush and fill , I plan on continuing to replace 1/3 (4qts) at each 5K oil change for a bit just for piece of mind. My oil extractor removes exactly 4qts through the fill dipstick.

[300 Blackout]

I just brought my 2015 Sierra to the dealer for an oil change.  I was going to have them do a pan drop and filter change for the transmission for routine maintenance.  (51k miles, original owner). However when I got there they said they’ll typically only do a flush, and really it’s overkill for my truck in it’s current state.
 
After a little discussion, they said they could do a pan drop and filter change but it would be $400+ for labor and parts vs $179 for the flush.  
 
I’m hesitant about a flush, but I was told it will cause no issues.  Seems that a pan drop and filter change on these trucks is the typical service recommendation though.  I’ve thought about doing it myself, but it looks like a real PITA, especially with the filter seal.
 
I was also quoted $150 for a pan drop / filter change by a local AAMCO transmission shop. 
 
Should I just get a flush from the dealership or do it myself?  Or have another shop service it?

Absolutely drop the pan, clean the magnet and change the filter. Don’t worry about changing the filter seal if you don’t have a seal puller. Just change the filter with the old seal in place. Yeah, it’s not perfect but it’s better than leaving the old filter in place and not dropping the pan. Make sure you pre-lube the o-rings before seating the new filter.

If you are methodical and plan for 2-3 hours, you’ll be happy you did it. Make sure plan on having extra fluid to “waste” in order to flush the converter via the cooler lines. Well worth it. Here’s my pan and fluid after 75k. The magnet was coated in shavings also.

[flyingfool]

9 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

good question and hard to answer as there is many ways to do it. with my software I can just push the button and it resets it. But there is also a manual way. also where are many other "how to" for getting all the fluid in all the little parts of the trans. and these trucks are sensitive to over fill. even with the overfill reservoir. And if overfilled it is hard on the converter pump and input seal. so you may see fluid drip out of the inspection holes on bottom of the bell housing.  

http://etereman.com/blog/transmission-care/resetting-shift-adapts-is-it-necessary-after-installing-a-rebuilt-transmission

thanks, but man that is involved.. i'll have to stop by the dealer or find someone with the tool

[royalkangaroo]

Mine is a 6 speed and I see a tremendous improvement in upshift firmness, no downshift clunking and no more "flares". Have 12,500 miles on this swap, no issues. 
 
Although I did a flush and fill , I plan on continuing to replace 1/3 (4qts) at each 5K oil change for a bit just for piece of mind. My oil extractor removes exactly 4qts through the fill dipstick.

This is with the Mobil 1 LV ATF HP?


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