Jump to content

Transmission Fluid Advice


Recommended Posts

Posted

There’s a lot of options for trans fluid. Any new DEXRON VI fluid will be an improvement over used fluid. There are also fluids out there that aren’t certified/licensed as DEXRON VI but are more than capable of great performance in our transmissions. I have the 6L80 also and I used Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient ATF. I bought four gallons since I also changed my transfer case fluid (do that too if you haven’t already) and wanted to have extra on hand.

I didn’t do any reprogramming of my trans after the fluid change, but I did disconnect my battery negative for other reasons which may have forced the trans control module to relearn it’s settings. Either way, over 1,000 miles and the trans couldn’t be happier. Shifts great, stays cool and is still nice and quiet.

It’s a lot of work but well worth it for the longevity of the truck.

  • Replies 147
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I pulled all I could pull out the dipstick tube at 70k miles, to avoid taking a bath in trans fluid. Dropped the pan and changed the filter. Cleaned the magnet and replaced the filter. I have since pulled 4 quarts every 15k miles out the dipstick tube. The fluid looks much better now. I am at 109k miles and I hope for another 4 or 5 years out of the truck.


5b11d8e4cc676_TransmissionFluid1.thumb.jpg.8117b15c2ecf52420957d3378d09a963.jpg5b11d90fd9a76_TransmissionFluid3.thumb.jpg.9fb7a49694dca96e1a66e6692ad4301c.jpg

Posted

I have been using Valvoline MaxLife ATF in my Sierra. I have been using a suction pump with a hose down the dipstick tube to extract the fluid. I can usually get between 3-4 quarts. I'll do this 3 times usually a week apart. I did the first one around 60,000 miles. Did it again around 100,000 then did a pan drop and new filter around 130,000. Now at 153,000 with no transmission issues. Plan to do another 3x drain/fill this fall.

Posted
18 hours ago, Eddie 70 said:

I pulled all I could pull out the dipstick tube at 70k miles, to avoid taking a bath in trans fluid. Dropped the pan and changed the filter. Cleaned the magnet and replaced the filter. I have since pulled 4 quarts every 15k miles out the dipstick tube. The fluid looks much better now. I am at 109k miles and I hope for another 4 or 5 years out of the truck.


5b11d8e4cc676_TransmissionFluid1.thumb.jpg.8117b15c2ecf52420957d3378d09a963.jpg5b11d90fd9a76_TransmissionFluid3.thumb.jpg.9fb7a49694dca96e1a66e6692ad4301c.jpg

Nice.

 

I think I found that pump on amazon. Does the hose that comes with it fit down the dipstick tube or did you have to use something else?

Posted
18 hours ago, Eddie 70 said:

I am at 109k miles and I hope for another 4 or 5 years out of the truck.

Curious Eddie. How many miles do you feel is a 'normal' life span for a vehicle? 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Curious Eddie. How many miles do you feel is a 'normal' life span for a vehicle? 

 Grumpy:

 

How many miles would you say is lifespan for these trucks if properly maintained? I’m at 95k miles with my 2014 GMC and have decided to keep it “till the wheels fall off”. With the number of small problems that it has had, I just don’t know if that will be at 100k or 250k miles. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, paumat said:

How much can you get out through the dipstick tube?  4 of the 13 quarts?

I get 4.5 quarts out of my 2012 6 speed . 6l80

6 quarts with a pan drop and filter change.

I use Castrol Transmax fluid if you're interested.

:)

Posted

Here’s what I did on my ‘16 at 72k (and do on my entire fleet): pulled the pan, drilled a hole with a stepped bit in the pan, and took a cut off wheel and castled a nut. I then welded it castle-side down to the inside of the pan (so fluid could completely drain and not leave a 1/4” of fluid/debris remaining behind). I had a spare Colorado drain plug that I cut the end off that would extend past the welded nut, that has rubber gasket. The first pan drop at ~72k took a while due to the improvement, but the two subsequent drain/fills after ~500 miles each took 15 minutes. After than, ill drain/fill every year. The trans had NONE of the issues my ‘17 did, but after the drains, it drives amazing, to the point where I’d doubt there was ever an issue anywhere with any 6 speed.

 

On my last fill, I added a bottle of Lubeguard Red. I’ve always used it in my transmissions, including my ‘04 F150 who had its first fluid change at 150k miles, and it cleaned up any TC shudder or odd shifts every time. If that doesn’t work, they make a bottle specifically for the TC shudder these trucks can exhibit. If the dealer comes up short, spend $15 for a bottle and make the problem go away. 

 

It took ~6 qts + 10 oz LG red of Castrol Transmax the last time. I do love the Redline stuff, it’s all I use in my X3. 

Posted
6 hours ago, RE1 said:

 Grumpy:

 

How many miles would you say is lifespan for these trucks if properly maintained? I’m at 95k miles with my 2014 GMC and have decided to keep it “till the wheels fall off”. With the number of small problems that it has had, I just don’t know if that will be at 100k or 250k miles. 

Maybe I should take a poll for this question.

 

If properly maintained means allot of different things to different people doesn't it? Defined buy my version of properly maintained a very VERY long time. Defined by GM's idea of properly maintained....yea....that's a crap shoot. They are not unhappy with selling you a truck every 3 to 5 years. And that's the problem. I explained it to another forum member in a PM that this relationship we have with manufactures is much like playing checkers. 

 

Manufactures like to play their checker (Design and manufacture it) then tell you what move to make with your checker (how to maintain it). You good with that? I use to be when they actually cared. No so much anymore....

 

Give you a real world example. Stihl 2 cycle products. Blowers, trimmers etc. If you own one you've been told that, 'because of todays fuels you must run Stihl Moto fuel for trouble free service". This a partially true statement. You must run their TYPE of fuel but it isn't because the gas in the US is bad and that is important. Gasoline is a chemically defined fluid that is Federally Regulated in this country. BUT....US fuel by and large contains Ethanol. Ethanol does NOT make gas 'gum up'. Ethanol is a solvent that attacks very specific materials. Not a secret is it? Stihl deliberately decided to use those specific alcohol sensitive materials to build the carburetor diaphragms from. This CREATES a problem. They then CREATE the cure. Canned Alcohol free fuel in a 50:1 premix and sell it at a 1,000% mark up CREATING a revenue stream of unholy proportion. 

 

$32 a gallon!!!

 

Briggs & Stratton has a series of carburetors on 4 cycle machines that ALSO utilizes a diaphragm (the part that fails in Stihl equipment) that will last decades in ethanol based fuels. Just made of a different material. Brigs & Stratton is now on a "never have to change your oil" kick. ? 

Posted
9 hours ago, RE1 said:

Nice.

 

I think I found that pump on amazon. Does the hose that comes with it fit down the dipstick tube or did you have to use something else?

The tube that comes with the pump is silicone type material and will stick to the sides of the tube before you ever got it down far enough to pull fluid. I bought some of the tubing similar to the type that is the hard line going to your refrigerator except in a larger diameter that just fits snugly inside the pump tubing. The tubing I bought is stiff and can be pushed to the bottom of the pan without much resistance.

Posted
9 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Curious Eddie. How many miles do you feel is a 'normal' life span for a vehicle? 

I normally don't keep vehicles very long. Normal life for me has been about 3 years, over my working years. I am getting closer to what I want to be my retirement age to be and another 4 or 5 years should get me there. I have probably had 20+ vehicles. (Way too many and a lot of lost money, but I enjoyed every vehicle)

In May of 2018, I bought a little Honda to make the 41 mile, each way commute to work. At the time, May 25th 2018, my truck had 104,646 on it. As of July 12th 2019, my truck 108,804. This is coming from my aCar app that I use to track mileage. If those numbers keep up, the truck should make it pretty easily to retirement. The little Honda has been getting 42+MPG and cost $4000. It might pay for itself.

Posted
19 minutes ago, Eddie 70 said:

The tube that comes with the pump is silicone type material and will stick to the sides of the tube before you ever got it down far enough to pull fluid. I bought some of the tubing similar to the type that is the hard line going to your refrigerator except in a larger diameter that just fits snugly inside the pump tubing. The tubing I bought is stiff and can be pushed to the bottom of the pan without much resistance.

Awesome man. Thanks. 

Posted
The tube that comes with the pump is silicone type material and will stick to the sides of the tube before you ever got it down far enough to pull fluid. I bought some of the tubing similar to the type that is the hard line going to your refrigerator except in a larger diameter that just fits snugly inside the pump tubing. The tubing I bought is stiff and can be pushed to the bottom of the pan without much resistance.


What size/material tubing are you guys using?

I have the AMSOIL hand pump to pump fluid from quart and gallon bottles. Would this work with a long section of tubing down the transmission fill tube?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...