Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone removed these?

Want to do something custom...b996852223eb4ea928f72c2cc1651a54.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Specifically what I want to know, are these basically 3 pieces stuck together?
6.2L plate stuck to the black plastic piece stuck to the grey bezel and that all is clipped to the fender or is it all one piece that cannot be separated?

Posted

I think they’re a single unit.

I had looked at spares to get for a custom project but they were a little pricey and didn’t want to blow $250.00 for a “guess”.

Posted
11 hours ago, brianc636 said:

I think they’re a single unit.

I had looked at spares to get for a custom project but they were a little pricey and didn’t want to blow $250.00 for a “guess”.

Theyre $120 from your dealer or $80 from gm parts direct. I ordered an extra set and sent them off for modeling for custom badges. I didnt even open the box though so i cant answer the original question

 

Posted

Before I ever saw a 2019 I read they were vents with something up front that opens at speed still have not figured out what they talking about but the engine does run cooler than my 2014.

Posted

I was bored today so I removed the wheel, inner wheel well and reached up there with pliers to release the clips to remove the vent badge. It's non functional and unless you use a dremel to cut away the plastic welds, the 3 pieces isn't coming apart.

Posted
I was really hoping it was taped on and didn’t have holes in the fenders.
Yep, holes 88fad2f21084193ec90b6c91d48e8abf.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
4 hours ago, brianc636 said:

Well....that really sucks....

Yep. My idea for custom badges went out the window. I wanted to keep the bezel and remove the black piece to have a new badge made and insert it back into the bezel piece.
I don't want to have to buy a new one if I can't get them apart the way I need to.
Just by looking at it I'm not convinced all the tabs will stay on the backing once one takes a dremel to all the plastic welds to try to separate the pieces.

Posted

What if you try and remove the sticker portion from the black part? I was thinking if that would come off easy, I’d have new badges with AT4 made that look factory.

Posted

I tried getting under it with the edge of a razor knife and the way the black piece is molded around the edge where the 6.2L plate sits in there (recessed) I wasn't having any luck getting behind it and didn't want to mar up the black, so I gave up

Posted

You could likely get someone like Emblem Pros to make you a custom badge. Do the plain jane trucks just have a plain black cover? Other than that you would have to cut it out of the fender, weld in a metal piece, do body work and repaint. I think myself I would just leave it alone. imo

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Did anyone ever have any emblems made? I'd like to cover up the "5.3L V8" and just have it say GMC or something.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...