Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The only thing that shakes on my 5.3L / 8spd RST Z71 after 5200 miles is the ground when I cold start it. 


VRRRRROOOOM! 

 

Great truck. 

  • Like 3
Posted

Crap shoot.

Good luck.

I would also stay away from rims over 18 inches.

:)

Posted
13 minutes ago, econometrics said:

The only thing that shakes on my 5.3L / 8spd RST Z71 after 5200 miles is the ground when I cold start it. 


VRRRRROOOOM! 

 

Great truck. 

Mine too after the road force balance. Must be the exhaust damper that roars on start......put a 2-3/4 to 4' extension tip on the tailpipe and it roars louder!

DSCN0605.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted
On 8/29/2019 at 10:48 AM, jordanl010 said:

got my truck on Wednesday last week. Driving around town, no vibration issues but whenever going between 60-70 mph on the highway, feels like a speed strip. No sounds or anything but vibrates like a speed strip. Dealer has the truck as of yesterday and they are supposed to be putting new tires on. They think there's a hard spot on the tires. (they already re-balanced and road force balance). Not necessarily the classic shake of the silverado but just posting this in case anyone else has this issue

Had the same problem with mine... After a tire rotate and rebalance didn't work the dealer found what the issue really was.  The driveshaft had a dent!  They replaced the driveshaft at no cost since the damage came from the factory.  Hope you can find your gremlin!

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, TBL569 said:

Had the same problem with mine... After a tire rotate and rebalance didn't work the dealer found what the issue really was.  The driveshaft had a dent!  They replaced the driveshaft at no cost since the damage came from the factory.  Hope you can find your gremlin!

Fingers crossed! I'll bring that up to them when I go for the ride along Wednesday :)

  • 3 months later...
Posted

2019 Sierra SLT.  I have the vibration / resonance occurring randomly from the back 1/2 of the truck at about 65mph and 1400 rpm while going up a slight incline in 2WD.  I have the same vibration when I slowly backup up a slight incline (driveway).  The vibration will go away if given less throttle or more.  After looking underneath the truck, I suspect it is one of the two stamped metal heat shields near muffler / fuel tank.  I will be taking it in to dealership soon to demonstrate what I can do to repeat the resonance.  The vibration sound is not related to the truck performance, because this truck rides perfectly otherwise.

Posted

mine has smooth as silk....been waiting to do anything because it rides so good, cept for body roll...

 

I did have Toyota that had shake at 60mph and never got remedied.....tried everything even new rear axles, it did have bigger rims and tires so.....

  • 1 month later...
Posted

PROBLEM SOLVED - The resonance / vibration sounds comes from two metal shields located between the exhaust pipes and spare tire.  In certain road and speed circumstances, they vibrate (similarly to what a tuning fork does).  GMC has not come up with a solution yet, but will reply back here when a solution is provided.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

2019 Denali Ultimate with 22" wheels 600 miles is a shaker. Had in today and they road forced all the tires and it is improved but still shakes. One tire (RR) could not be brought into road force spec.  They wanted me to drive it a few days but I can already tell it is going to be a problem. Hoping they will order me a replacement tire when I call them next week. (fat chance of it magically getting better on its own LOL) 

401457667_2019RoadForcebalancepaperwork2-21-20.thumb.jpg.f165e23a7d3a89729806a0a75c2d19df.jpg

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Any info would be helpful .  Bought this new 2020 3.0 liter duramax to replace my tundra vibration at 65-plus .  I do have 18” wheels with falken wild peaks on it but it has had a shake that felt like unbalanced tires even with the stock tires.  I have had to the dealership several times they have visually inspected and don’t see a problem just paid them to road balance with little change.  They put it in some test deal “pico” and that’s where they determined it was balance issue .  I just drove back home 100 miles and nearly same vibration especially while going up slight incline .  Not sure where to look for answers.  They did say they didn’t see any dents or weights missing on driveline .  I’m lost but not super excited about spending that much money for a crappy vibrating ride .. 

  • 3 months later...
Posted

i have a 2020 silverado , since new and i only have 3800 miles on it now, it has had this intermitting vibration , it happens between 58 and 64 mph, feels like your driving on the rumble strip , mostly does it in 6th gear, looks like i`m not the first one to notice this .

Posted

My wifes 18’ Sierra Denali had the shake and rumble at 300 miles when new. I researched the Tech service bulletins and found one regarding Trans fluid. We took back to dealer they did the flush and fill procedure and truck has been great since the flush and re-fill.

Turns out they got a bad batch of trans fluid.. I was skeptical but it actually fixed it.

Don’t wait get it flushed before the trans grenades.

Posted (edited)

2018 Sierra 1500 Denali w/ 6.2L, 6-speed, 4x4, 22 inch rims.  Shake happens around 58 mph thru about 65 mph.  Not happy.

Edited by DH Denali
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
2018 Sierra 1500 Denali w/ 6.2L, 6-speed, 4x4, 22 inch rims.  Shake happens around 58 mph thru about 65 mph.  Not happy.

There is a tech service bulletin on this.. get the trans fluid flush / fill procedure done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 585 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...