Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi FiatDale,

 

OK, I've been following your thread but am now just a tad confused.

If I read you right, in order to do this addition you need the following parts:

1- Lamp With Camera

2- Complete spoiler

3- Front Coax

 

Any other parts?

 

Questions:

Is the coax a simple 2 conductor wire with a shield and inner conductor?

Is it possible to cut off the GMC connectors and make your own cable with BNC connectors?

For the insight of those who want to emulate your project, may I ask you to post individual photos of the components with their part numbers and approximate prices?

This looks like it ends up being a rather expensive project.

 

Thanks, Steve

Posted

You need the mirror too.

But yes, I'm hoping the guy posts a full post with pics and all part numbers.

In all honestly, it would be best to create a new post with all of those in it.

Also saw that spoiler part online last night for less than $200, but I'm not buying anything until I can see how easy or hard it is.

Posted

The spoiler is definitely not $200. Used on eBay with camera are around $300. List from GM is $430. If you found or that cheap, chances are it’s a 3rd brake light without camera. As I believe GM has fixed them so they don’t leak anymore, so that’s something you’ll risk with a used one. GM isn’t going to warranty it if it didn’t come on the truck new. You need the mirror, coax cable and spoiler with camera.


Rearview Camera:
3rd Brake w/ Cam: 84487008
Rearview mirror screen: 13532977
Coax cable: 84335461

It’s a simple coax, but without the connectors you are not going to make your own dot rely on splicing, I don’t care what kind of wiring guru you are, do it right. Especially when the cable only costs $30.

Posted

Ah my bad. That’s JUST the lamp. Not spoiler. The deal is the harness on just the light is not long enough to extend into the cab, it needs the extension which is tied into the 3rd brake light harness which brings it inside. The coax going from the mirror to camera is not long enough to reach just the plug on the camera / lamp, it needs that extension which is NOT sold separately, only with the complete spoiler assembly

Posted
2 hours ago, fightingmajor said:

You need the mirror too.

But yes, I'm hoping the guy posts a full post with pics and all part numbers.

In all honestly, it would be best to create a new post with all of those in it.

Also saw that spoiler part online last night for less than $200, but I'm not buying anything until I can see how easy or hard it is.

Fighting Major ..... I'm with you.

I'd like to see a parts description with part numbers and prices all in one place.

As for having to buy the entire spoiler .... there must be a work around.

What I'm hearing is that you first need to buy the light and camera assembly, then a new spoiler only for the cable.

$300 for the spoiler with a cable sounds absurd when I know I can make a cable. Connectors are just that ... only connectors.

Cutting off proprietary connectors and swapping them to BNC is no big deal.

Both male and female inline connectors are readily available for under $2 each. a short length of RG194 coax is under a $1

 

Steve

Posted

I don’t think either of you read what I’ve typed. Here is what you need:

Spoiler assembly with camera (black) 84515287
Mirror 13532977
Coax cable 84335461

You do NOT need to buy the PN I ACCIDENTALLY put for the camera, that PN was for just the lamp/camera assembly. It does not have the additional length harness to reach inside the cabin. This piece being on the roof and not wanting to slice thru the grommet and throw some cheap silicone on it in fear of leaks, I would suggest getting the spoiler assembly PN above WHICH COMES WITH THE LAMP AND CAMERA & ADDITIONAL LENGTH HARNESS. Maybe you’ll even get lucky and the clips will be tighter than before so it won’t do the spoiler pop we all experience.

You guys are making this way more difficult than it is. It’s 3 parts. Yes they’re pricey. Yes it’s cheaper to buy these options when built new. You want to save $20 by making your own coax cable and splicing off ends go right ahead. The lead off of the mirror is about 1”. Try not to screw that up on a $500+ mirror. If you’re already spending close to $800, what’s another $20 to make it as factory as possible with a pre terminated cable.

  • Like 7
Posted

Thanks for clarifying and sounding like a pompous ass in the process.  Possibly had you just posted the parts and process you wouldn't get questions.  Please don't let us peasants take up your time king rearview mirror installer. Sorry for questioning your mistyped part numbers. I'm sure your servant will receive many lashes for the error on their part.

Posted

K it works. Zero programming needed plug and play. When I have time to compile everything I’ll do a whole write up. Get your parts on order.

9f4bc7f2a6082aefd093d9caf8216e88.jpg

00aabd5d4aed1879129f30641a188188.jpg

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thank you FiatDale for making this happen! I for one greatly appreciate your time and money spent to figure this out. I’m also following your thread in the HUD display, I may have to choose only one to do for now though do to the cost of each. Tough choice! 

thank ya!!!!

 

Posted

Outstanding! I have a local salvage yard that has a couple 19s, hopefully I’ll get lucky tomorrow and score some parts for both projects!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

First off thank you FiatDale for the update and part numbers I’m ready to order and can’t wait to retrofit my 19 LTZ. Also following your HUD thread and want to do add that as well down the line but was wondering how hard is it to remove the spoiler? Did it involve removing inside headliner completely? Thanks again for all the info 

Edited by NICK19LTZ
Posted

I’ll do a write up, but it’s tricky to not screw up the headliner by putting a crease in it. Also, I use air tools which made things 10x easier because some of the 10mm are hard to get to with the headliner in your way.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 507 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...