Jump to content

Changing from halogen to LED headlights on LT, Custom, or WT trims

SkidooSteve12

By SkidooSteve12
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris Haley New Member

Chris Haley

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, TrkLegend said:

This is what I ordered, or what I took from his post. But I could be wrong. The description says it works for HD models as well.

 

https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/19-20-silverado-plug-play-harnesses/products/19-20-silverado-led-headlight-harness

Yep, that’s the one.  Seems like Chevy uses the same wiring harness for both the 1500 and HD models.   

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

amxguy1970
amxguy1970

Don't do that, do it right if you are going to do it. You are going to blind the heck out of on coming traffic like that, you can see in the video it is like riding around with your brights on and you

Chris Haley
Chris Haley

So I just finished replacing the halogen headlights on my 2500 Custom with the LTZ/High Country OEM LED assembly.   I found a set on eBay, and then purchased a plug-and-play harness adapter from Gen5d

jpgcrna
jpgcrna

Give it some time and expect to spend some money. I see 3 options being the available in the future.   1. Morimoto will probably make some aftermarket LED housings that are direct swap and p

Posted Images

  • 4 weeks later...
ladin New Member

ladin

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone, I installed my LED headlights on my 2020 Silverado HD Custom, I purchased my headlights from a guy outside ebay but he was offering the headlights on ebay originally, I order the harness from  gen5diy here is the link to order the harness https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/19-20-silverado-plug-play-harnesses/products/19-20-silverado-led-headlight-harness the only problem I found is that when you turn the signals does not turn off the day time running LED's like in the LTZ or the High Country ( but I think is not the relay is probably the configuration of the truck because it was not made for the Led's) But other than that they work great, I'm very happy with this upgrade to my truck.

 

How to do the install: I found a video from the guys at Frontier Truck Gear for how to remove the grill  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcHwBJZDTWI I did the installation in about an hour with the help of my brother

 

 

make sure to attach the relays to the body of the truck.

 

 

thumbnail_IMG_5250.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_5236.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_5230.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_5223.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_5222.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Ryan Malmsteen New Member

Ryan Malmsteen

Posted
Posted

Sorry to revive an old thread, but the dealer that told you the plugs would need to be changed is incorrect. Both halogen and led use the same connector. There is no difference between body harnesses for the RPO’s for LED or Halogen. 

  • Like 1
Stand By Enthusiast

Stand By

Posted
Posted
On 4/24/2020 at 1:54 AM, ladin said:

Hi everyone, I installed my LED headlights on my 2020 Silverado HD Custom, I purchased my headlights from a guy outside ebay but he was offering the headlights on ebay originally, I order the harness from  gen5diy here is the link to order the harness https://www.gen5diy.com/collections/19-20-silverado-plug-play-harnesses/products/19-20-silverado-led-headlight-harness the only problem I found is that when you turn the signals does not turn off the day time running LED's like in the LTZ or the High Country ( but I think is not the relay is probably the configuration of the truck because it was not made for the Led's) But other than that they work great, I'm very happy with this upgrade to my truck.

 

How to do the install: I found a video from the guys at Frontier Truck Gear for how to remove the grill  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcHwBJZDTWI I did the installation in about an hour with the help of my brother

 

 

make sure to attach the relays to the body of the truck.

 

 

 

thumbnail_IMG_5250.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_5236.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_5230.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_5223.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_5222.jpg

Are you able to tell if there are any differences between the led lens vs the halogen lens? Wondering if I damaged a lens, if a lens off the other housing would be able to fit on, and I would save the old for spares.

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)

I saw a video where guy installed bulbs thru wheel well, they just popped off wheel liner and accessed it from back....

Edited by Dunn
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)

I bought the sealight laxmas L2 H11 and was skeptical....actually amazon recommended an upgrade to kit the guy posted a page or so back....$10 more, I installed them (super easy through wheel well)….I did low beams first as I didn't want to be out 2 sets if they had problems....now granted they have only been on few days but am totally happy with product if it lasts....beam is near identical to stock, no blinding other cars and light is more than enough for me, I am sure you can get better but its similar to 2019 RST that had factory LEDs and that's plenty for me.....so far so good....well worth $50, i could stand that dingy yellow light

 

not a light fanantic and wont be changing anything but headlights....taillights and blinkers are plenty for others to see and its not exactly a small inconspicuous vehicle, lol

 

 

Edited by Dunn
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
SkidooSteve12 Enthusiast

SkidooSteve12

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 5/8/2020 at 9:16 PM, Dunn said:

I bought the sealight laxmas L2 H11 and was skeptical....actually amazon recommended an upgrade to kit the guy posted a page or so back....$10 more, I installed them (super easy through wheel well)….I did low beams first as I didn't want to be out 2 sets if they had problems....now granted they have only been on few days but am totally happy with product if it lasts....beam is near identical to stock, no blinding other cars and light is more than enough for me, I am sure you can get better but its similar to 2019 RST that had factory LEDs and that's plenty for me.....so far so good....well worth $50, i could stand that dingy yellow light

 

not a light fanantic and wont be changing anything but headlights....taillights and blinkers are plenty for others to see and its not exactly a small inconspicuous vehicle, lol

 

 

Can you give an update to your review of the Sealight Laxmas L2 LEDs? I bought the newest set of Sealight LEDs and I think they are too bright for how tall the headlights are on the 2020 HD.... and the driver's side seems like it is more focused than the passenger side for some reason. I'm think about returning them and getting the full 4 bulb set of Laxmas L2. Installation was much easier than I expected and I will have to post the pictures I took.

Thanks!

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted

yeah I didn't drive up to a wall and check pattern or really get technical about it....the beam shoots about same as halogens just better brighter light and haven't been flashed by anyone....truck sits tall stock as you know so you will blind small car if you pull up behind them at stop light but nothing you can do about that....they have been working great and have no issues though I am sure if you wanna spend more money for even better LED they are out there.....its pretty much same as my 19 RST that had LED from factory so I am pleased as that's all I was really looking for.....these lights I believe are made for halogen replacements, as long as they last I will be happy camper.....I didn't want to change housings and all that.....I get no flickering, warnings on DIC and DRL work fine so

 

I haven't tested or used bunch of different LEDs in past so cant compare to anything cept my last 2019 silverado

  • Like 1
SkidooSteve12 Enthusiast

SkidooSteve12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just see the pattern that was shining on my garage door while inside. I couldn't really check outside because my driveway slopes down from the door. I just wanted to see if they are still working good and also if any cars have flashed you with that LED model. The Sealight seems to have a good customer service presence on Amazon and they have a 2 year warranty from one comment. I am going to order the Laxmas L2 set of 4 now. Thanks for the update!

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)

yeah no complaints bro....for the money and ease of installing one of best things I could have done

 

I also installed hi beams too but haven't really used them yet....

Edited by Dunn
  • Like 1
SkidooSteve12 Enthusiast

SkidooSteve12

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Pictures from when I changed the low beams the other day. The inner wheel liner is unscrewed with a T15 bit. I took out the front 3 on the edge and the front lower middle screw. This gave me plenty of room to get in there while having the tire turned out of the way. Rubber plug pulls out, turn the bulb to release, unplug it and plug in the replacement bulb. Reverse steps and enjoy!

 

IMG_20200707_1.jpg

 

Top hole is the low beam, stock halogen bulb

 

IMG_20200707_2.jpg

 

New LED light

 

IMG_20200707_3.jpg

 

Stock halogen light

 

IMG_20200707_4.jpg

 

Stock vs LED

 

IMG_20200707_5.jpg

 

I don't like that LED pattern and returning it for a different LED model. But I think the driver's side LED matched the halogen pattern. Going to test them again when I swap in the new LED model.

 

IMG_20200707_6.jpg

 

Rubber dust covers

 

IMG_20200707_7.jpg

 

Plenty of room to work with the wheel liner pulled back and tire turned. Putting the wheel liner back into the plastic fender flare took longer than swapping the light out of the socket.

 

IMG_20200707_8.jpg

 

Driver's side light access

 

IMG_20200707_9.jpg

 

Aftermarket LED light installed

 

IMG_20200707_10.jpg

Edited by SkidooSteve12
  • Like 1
Stand By Enthusiast

Stand By

Posted
Posted

Excellent follow-up. Interested to see what else you end up with. Considering an LED housing swap, but I could use that money for a new shotgun instead. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...