Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I purchased the trailer camera (#657) for my 2020 Denali 3500. I installed it on my 7 x 16 V nose trailer. The rear trailer camera view really is nice. However, not that it is a big deal, but the transparent trailer setting is not working properly. I have tried a couple setups.  

 

My trailer is 7' inside height and the overall height ground to roof is 100 inches. When I aim the camera down to get the base of the ramp door, I still get a good long distance of rear view as well. The range of the camera is such that I can see the very bottom back of the trailer at the lower portion of the screen and still the top inch of the screen is the sky horizon. However, at that angle, even after I have entered all the trailer dimensions in the setup, the system does not calibrate for the transparent feature. 

When I tilt the camera up, the system tries to calibrate, but I end up with a weird split screen that "kinda" looks like the transparent views advertised by GM, but my trailer is not transparent. Check out the picture in the link;

 

Non-transparent trailer mode.

 

Anyone having any luck with the mode? Tricks, tips?

 

Thanks.

Posted

posted by another memeber (MTU Alum);

 

"There are proper placement and camera angle that need to be followed.  The camera needs to be in center of trailer and 4 inches higher than camera in tailgate when your trailer is attached.

 

The camera angle needs to be about 35 degrees.  So 0 degrees would be straight down, raise the camera 35 degrees from there.  You generally don't want to be seeing the end of trailer or bumper.

 

If you see any shadows in the rear trailer camera view, it will have trouble calibrating.  You may have go in different direction.  

 

I recommend exiting the trailer app when calibrating and open camera app and select transparent view.  There will be a yellow status bar on the bottom to show the calibration progress.  I have never seen them calibrate in 60 feet it usually quite a bit longer."

Posted

In order to calibrate, you need to drive in straight line from 10 to 30 mph.  If you have a v nosed trailer you probably need to adjust your center of ball to front of trailer measurement.  The measurement should be from center of ball to if the trailer had a flat front.  So measurement should be center of ball to where the v starts on the trailer.  

 

The transparent image works by stitching four camera views together: tailgate, outside mirrors, and trailer cam.  

 

#iworkforGM 

Posted

I wonder if anyone with a long 5er or gooseneck tried to manipulate the numbers and style of camera to get this to work, or at least semi-work? I know that any 5th wheel is ineligible to have it, so you'd have to select a type of tag-along trailer and pretty much max out the dimensions. I installed the rear trailer camera and was happy just to see behind the camper, then noticed there is a view that shows the mirror cameras and rear trailer camera on one screen. That's pretty nice, especially when backing.

Posted

Shotgun,

 

I agree, the key with these cameras is the awesome ability to see behind your trailer. It is really a cool option to have that functionality integrated in. The transparent thing is really no big deal for me, but like a kid with a new toy, you just wanna play with the cool factor.

 

In a different thread, MTU Alum, who works for GM, explained to me that in order for the 4 cameras to stitch the transparent view, the trailer camera needs in a position slightly above the tailgate camera. That parameter practically rules out the transparent view on a tall enclosed trailer or certainly on your 5th wheel camper. 

 

On my wishlist for GM is the ability to put the rear trailer cam view ON the rear-view mirror screen. We are trained to look at the rear view mirror to see behind us, if we have a trailer camera, we should have the option to cast that onto the rear view mirror screen. That would free u the main screen for other functions.

  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, MoCOgmc said:

Wait, why can't we put them on 5th wheels? 

You can put them on 5th wheels, you just won't have the transparent trailer view. However, the view with the mirror cameras and rear vision camera is pretty dang good.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, ShotgunZ71 said:

You can put them on 5th wheels, you just won't have the transparent trailer view. However, the view with the mirror cameras and rear vision camera is pretty dang good.

I agree.... super cool to have this. 

Posted

Been using my on my 5th wheel and it's been great...until today. Got home and went to use the camera to get backed up correctly and got nothing but a black screen. The infotainment lets me select it, but it shows no picture. I've changed ports to the in-trailer view and got the same result. One time we did get a picture blip, but nothing consistent. Any ideas or similar issues?

Posted
8 hours ago, ShotgunZ71 said:

Been using my on my 5th wheel and it's been great...until today. Got home and went to use the camera to get backed up correctly and got nothing but a black screen. The infotainment lets me select it, but it shows no picture. I've changed ports to the in-trailer view and got the same result. One time we did get a picture blip, but nothing consistent. Any ideas or similar issues?

That sucks... we paid way too much money for these cameras for them not to work for years and years.

 

Posted
7 hours ago, In2racn said:

That sucks... we paid way too much money for these cameras for them not to work for years and years.

 

I'm going to check the back of the connection on the truck to see if something is loose. It's like it knows there is a camera there, but no picture. The one time we got a picture after we got home, I went a shook the cable, wiggled it, etc to see of that was the issue but it stayed on until we unplugged and plugged back in. Odd, for sure.

Posted

Messed with it some this afternoon. Never got it to work on the rear trailer mode/plug, but did get it to work briefly when plugged into the interior trailer plug. While it was on, I pulled, shook, and flexed the plug and wire. The picture stayed on. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it wouldn’t come on that time. It’s almost as if it’s a power issue with the truck plugs or the ECM isn’t sending power to the camera all the time. Anyone know how the power is supplied to these trailer cameras?

Posted

Do you have the seven way trailer plugged in when checking the trailer cams?  I know you will not get power without 7 way plugged in.  Also, I recommend having the truck completely asleep before plugging trailer cams.  The truck is usually asleep after the green OnStar light goes out.

 

#iworkforGM 

Posted
3 hours ago, MTU Alum said:

Do you have the seven way trailer plugged in when checking the trailer cams?  I know you will not get power without 7 way plugged in.  Also, I recommend having the truck completely asleep before plugging trailer cams.  The truck is usually asleep after the green OnStar light goes out.

 

#iworkforGM 

I will try that! Thanks for the tip. Will let you know how it goes. So, basically have the truck off, then connect the 2 cables, then start the truck? May even try some contact cleaner on the connections to make sure nothing got in them.

Posted

I usually backup to trailer and get aligned to trailer hookup, shut truck off, hook up trailer and chains, then plug in electrical, and finally camera.  These cameras don't like a hot hookup where the truck is running or communications bus is alive.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You could try a used 1, they used that engine in the Astro vans, Plenty of them in the boneyard. Look for a wrecked or rotted 1 so the chance that it was scrapped for that reason and not a mechanical issue will be greater
    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...