Jump to content

Continental Terrain Contact A/T 285/45/22

D_Spin
 Share

Recommended Posts

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, Imcrazy said:

Will try to remember to shoot you an update. Check out tire rack , they did a full battery of tests on 4 tires, the Continentals the OP has, the Coopers I have, Bridgestone Revo's and one more I can't recall.. It helped me a lot with my decision... 

Discount Tire is my equivalent in the Seattle area.

 

That is where we went for new tires for the Tahoe. 

  • Replies 38
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

D_Spin
D_Spin

Earlier this week I had the Continental Terrain Contact A/T put on the truck. They were replacing the Nexen Roadian HP's the previous owner had installed. (The Continentals are considerably wider than

D_Spin
D_Spin

So just an update, drove 11hrs from Pittsburgh to Myrtle Beach, SC. Had some extremely slick conditions in the mountains of West Virginia. Steady freezing rain on I-79 just north of Beckley WV. Other

D_Spin
D_Spin

Well, long over due update... We had a very mild winter with nearly no snow. Only once I found myself driving through a few inches of fresh snow. First tracks at 4:30am, completely untreated roads. Th

Posted Images

rkj__ Enthusiast

rkj__

Posted
Posted

Nice tires. I’d consider running those. Honestly though, I’ve yet to have a problem with my Continental LX20, so I probably don’t need an AT. I run a set of winter tires in the winter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

D_Spin Enthusiast

D_Spin

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

A few years ago, I had a set of Cooper Discoverer ATP on my 03 Sierra and even new thought they were lacking in snow. Got no where near the milage out of them. That left a sour taste in my mouth for Cooper. After those I went with Kuhmo Road Venture AT51's  and absolutely loved them. They were a bit louder, but so was the entire truck compared to the 2015. This time, considering the prices of the 285/45/22 tire, there really wasn't a budget option as most tires were similarly priced. Nexen has an AT RA8, but even though its listed as an XL tire it has a VERY low weight rating of just 1,180 lbs compared to the 2,601 lbs of the Continental (which is on par with other comparable tires in this size listed as XL). The weight rating of the the tires is important to me as I often find myself hauling or towing something. My truck is always clean, but I'm not afraid to use it as truck. I will wash it as soon as I'm out of a job site. lol.

IMG_20191130_113638.jpg

Edited by D_Spin
  • Like 1
D_Spin Enthusiast

D_Spin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know it's no where close to the weight capacity, but I never what I will be towing/hauling around or how far it will go

20191020_180116.jpg

lonestardiver Enthusiast

lonestardiver

Posted
Posted

I am looking forward to hearing about people experiences with the continental’s. I ran the continental extreme contact on a couple of Subaru’s and they were great tires all year round.

After the OEM Goodyear’s on my ‘18 wear down I will likely be putting continentals on it. Another I would be tempted with from past experiences were the BFG rugged terrain’s. Much more street friendly but got 80k miles out of a set on my ‘94 single cab long bed. They had enough tread for trail use. Seems to me BFG redesigned them or may not make them anymore.

Joe98 Enthusiast

Joe98

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the review and pics D-spin.  I won’t be needing tires for my 2018 Sierra Denali for a long time but it’s nice to be able to read firsthand from members here on the good and bad experiences.  Great looking rig by  the way, she looks very well cared for ?

Bobbigboy Enthusiast

Bobbigboy

Posted
Posted

I have found, that when traveling off road in winter, dedicated snow or winter tires are the way to go. They grip the snow and ice better and provide greater control. The rubber is made for the cold, as well. Having a dedicated winter, is the best way to go. Michelin and  Nokian are good choices.  Work well in timber country or city streets. Worth the extra money. 

D_Spin Enthusiast

D_Spin

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So just an update, drove 11hrs from Pittsburgh to Myrtle Beach, SC. Had some extremely slick conditions in the mountains of West Virginia. Steady freezing rain on I-79 just north of Beckley WV. Other trucks, tractor trailers etc all over the road, over embankments and through guard rails. Without realizing how slick it was, I was cruising along at 78Mph. Only once on a bridge did the truck slip. I backed the cruise down and carried on. My parents were a bit behind me and said they closed the road right after I got through, so the roads were about as bad as it could get. 

 

Continuing south through VA, into NC, and east to the coast, it rained the entire way. Heavy steady rain transitioning to torrential down pours. Lots of ponding on the roads, people pulling over and waiting it out. I carried on at 70+ and never once felt the steering wheel get light nor the ass end get loose or step out. 

 

So far, I am absolutely amazed how well these tires did. They are absolutely glued to the street in heavy rain and standing water. Not once did I feel I couldn't trust the tires and I was trying to find the limit..  that limit ended up being my willingness to pay a ticket up to 80mph. Cruising at 80, was as fast as I was willing to go, and not because of the tires ability to go faster. They did impeccable in the freezing rain through the mountains, to the point I'm shocked they don't have the 3PMSF symbol on them. Weather supposed to be sketchy for my return trip this week as well, so I will update again when I get home.

 

So far, these are the best tire I have ever had for a daily driver. I absolutely love them, and still can't recommend them enough. 

Edited by D_Spin
  • Like 2
rebrecs Enthusiast

rebrecs

Posted
Posted

I run Continental Terrain Contact A/T on GMC 3500 DRW -- on the front. (235/80/17)

I had them all around but didn't like that.

I don't often get off of the concrete, but when I do, it is not usually into mild mannered grass, or quasi-mild-mannered gravel. It's mud or sand.

So I put something else on the back 4 wheels.

I wont put anything else on the front, because these Continentals are (IMHO) the best front tires you could possibly have. Especially in Houston where hydroplaning is a serious issue, and they are quiet as mice running high speed.

 

I get yelled at a lot for putting something different on the front and back. But I don't mind. I am very open to hearing the reasons not to do that.

Cupton Enthusiast

Cupton

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 12/15/2019 at 5:02 PM, D_Spin said:

So just an update, drove 11hrs from Pittsburgh to Myrtle Beach, SC. Had some extremely slick conditions in the mountains of West Virginia. Steady freezing rain on I-79 just north of Beckley WV. Other trucks, tractor trailers etc all over the road, over embankments and through guard rails. Without realizing how slick it was, I was cruising along at 78Mph. Only once on a bridge did the truck slip. I backed the cruise down and carried on. My parents were a bit behind me and said they closed the road right after I got through, so the roads were about as bad as it could get. 

 

Continuing south through VA, into NC, and east to the coast, it rained the entire way. Heavy steady rain transitioning to torrential down pours. Lots of ponding on the roads, people pulling over and waiting it out. I carried on at 70+ and never once felt the steering wheel get light nor the ass end get loose or step out. 

 

So far, I am absolutely amazed how well these tires did. They are absolutely glued to the street in heavy rain and standing water. Not once did I feel I couldn't trust the tires and I was trying to find the limit..  that limit ended up being my willingness to pay a ticket up to 80mph. Cruising at 80, was as fast as I was willing to go, and not because of the tires ability to go faster. They did impeccable in the freezing rain through the mountains, to the point I'm shocked they don't have the 3PMSF symbol on them. Weather supposed to be sketchy for my return trip this week as well, so I will update again when I get home.

 

So far, these are the best tire I have ever had for a daily driver. I absolutely love them, and still can't recommend them enough. 

Like another poster, the Terrain Contacts lost out to the Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S for me mainly because of the lack of severe snow rating. Is it necessary for where I live? I don't know, I moved here 5 years ago from the southwest so I tried to play it extra safe. So far, the winters (in my opinion) have been pretty mild. I'm also in the Pittsburgh area so your review will be a good gauge for me. The Terran Contacts have been and still are on my short list. The Coopers have been awesome for everything they have been through. No complaints from me, but I'm still curious to hear your thoughts as we get through winter. ?

Edited by Cupton
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted (edited)
19 hours ago, rebrecs said:

....

 

I get yelled at a lot for putting something different on the front and back. But I don't mind. I am very open to hearing the reasons not to do that.

I have always been told to not mix the tires on the SAME axle. So front tires can easily be one brand and rear tires another. Mixing used to be especially true with radials and bias ply tires, do not mix bias ply and radials on same axle as they have different handling characteristics. The main thing is to make sure that front axle and rear axle tires are the exact same size if you have 4x4 or risk drivetrain damage. The reasoning I'm guessing that you were told not to mix brands is because different brands can be slightly different in their actual specs. If they are way different, again, it could cause drivetrain damage to a 4x4 but a 2 wheel drive would not have the same limitation.

Edited by mikeyk101
rebrecs Enthusiast

rebrecs

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

The reasoning I'm guessing that you were told not to mix brands is because different brands can be slightly different in their actual specs. If they are way different, again, it could cause drivetrain damage to a 4x4 but a 2 wheel drive would not have the same limitation.

Mikey, agree all points. And you made a good point, that I will look in to further, which is "how different can they be without worry." In other words, is the variance between manufacturers significant. My assumptions have been front and back must be same size, and type (e.g. A/T's versus hiway tires, etc). So, on the front I have 235/80/17 A/Ts, and on the rear I have exactly the same. Fronts are same mfg., rears are same mfg.

If Continental makes an AT tire that is 235 tall, and BFGoodrich makes an AT tire that is 235 tall - how different are they likely to be? I dont know.

I imagine there is some difference. I also imagine the difference is within the same range as if the front tires were worn down, and the back tires were new.

 

Are you aware of warnings or advice concerning potential drivetrain damage for the difference that could exist based on tread wear?

  • 3 weeks later...
D_Spin Enthusiast

D_Spin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just to clarify, the 235 would be the width, not the height. The 80 would be the height of the sidewall as a percentage of the width, and the 17 is the wheel diameter.

 

Back to the review, the trip back north was just rain, and very light snow. Nothing really new to say. This winter has been warm and wet so far with nearly no snow at all. I will still keep this updated as time goes on.

  • Like 1
slide187 Enthusiast

slide187

Posted
Posted

Just drove mine thru our most recent storm a week or so ago. Night and day from the OEM crap but that’s obvious. I do like them a lot better than my last set of Hankook Dynapro ATMs on my old truck in the snow so I was happy about that. So far I have no complaints on the Continentals. [emoji1360][emoji1360]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 months later...
D_Spin Enthusiast

D_Spin

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Well, long over due update... We had a very mild winter with nearly no snow. Only once I found myself driving through a few inches of fresh snow. First tracks at 4:30am, completely untreated roads. The tires did fantastic. Up and down steep hills, I tried 2wd and 4wd. Light and heavy throttle just to find the limits, etc. 

 

Over all, I'm very impressed. They do very well, and are a perfect balance for a daily driver in all conditions. They seem to be wearing well (despite the dealer not rotating them on the last service I'm gonna rotate them this week during the virus lockdown). They don't do as well as dedicated snow tire, as expected, but they are the best compromise I could have found, based on my current experience for wear, noise, wet weather, snow and offroad. I did end up finding the mud/slick limit of the tires on another job site while backing a 6800lb pump/trailer up a steep/short incline. I needed a tug from a tractor to get it all up, but not at all surprised nor unexpected. Still loving these tires and definitely highly recommended. I am still of the belief that these may be the best kept secret in the 285/45/22 A/T truck tire market. 

20200224_151721.jpg

Edited by D_Spin
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 579 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...