Jump to content

Push button start Starter cranks endlessly no crank

19RSTZ71
 Share

Recommended Posts

19RSTZ71 New Member

19RSTZ71

Posted
Posted

Towed to dealer says it started. 2019 Silverado RST Crew 5.3 left me stranded at zero degrees.  I pressed the start button and the starter cranked at high rpm without the bendix engaging to crank the engine.  I had to press the button to stop it from spinning.  Tried several times still only starter spinning.  Roadside tow last night to dealer.  Dealer said started fine had a few codes ie fuel pump etc.  said come and get it NPF.  Now that is disappointing from a reliability trustworthy stand point.   Curious if anyone has heard of this symptom.  3024 miles on vehicle. 

RaisedByWolves Enthusiast

RaisedByWolves

Posted
Posted

Yes, cars have done this from the inception of the electric starter.

 

 

The fix is to crawl under there and hit the starter with a hammer.

  • Like 2
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Spinning without engaging has NOTHING to do with it being a push button.

Both the key and push button systems (and also the remote start, for that matter) just send an input to the computer.

 

As raisedbywolves pointed out, the starter drive not engaging (resulting in a free-wheeling starter) has always been an occasional problem.

 

The hammer certainly isn't a 'repair' solution, but sometimes it will get you home.

 

I think I'd be pissed that the shop just gave an NPF diagnosis. 

Chris Callanan Enthusiast

Chris Callanan

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, RaisedByWolves said:

Yes, cars have done this from the inception of the electric starter.

 

 

The fix is to crawl under there and hit the starter with a hammer.

I always carried a hammer in my old Diesel VW Dasher....  got me out of quite a few jams...    even better, always tried to park on a hill whenever I could :)

19RSTZ71 New Member

19RSTZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So I press the brake pedal and press and release the start button and the starter free wheels for ever until it burns out the starter or I press the start button again to stop the starter.  I have never turned a key to start any vehicle and and released the key and it kept free wheeling.  If a new Push button start GM vehicle has no flywheel engagement the starter can spin itself out of control with no fail safe?  Unless grandma Mabel figures out she has to start the vehicle again to get it to stop trying to start?  Odd. At no time is the engine running.

Edited by 19RSTZ71
OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted

I’m sure there’s some kind of cranking time limit built in, but it’s probably higher than most people would be comfortable with letting it run out.

 

Either way, there’s not much difference between having a key or push button besides the different motion. GM vehicles with keyed ignition have only required a “bump” of the key for years. Bump the key to the start position and the engine would continue to crank over until started. You’d still have to intervene or it would just keep cranking without holding the key there.

19RSTZ71 New Member

19RSTZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Boeing and Hitachi were pretty sure about things as well.  I appreciate the reasonable responses so I’ll just note that I threw the penalty flag while standing outside of my 3,000 mile new truck listening to the starter spin until I jumped back in and stopped it.  I will update this post should a software anomaly with the start stop remote start systems be tied to some of the codes present.  Might be more to it.  It starts ok today repeatedly with no service performed.  Thanks all. 

19RSTZ71 New Member

19RSTZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I suppose I could have.  May still need to.  I spent 30 years in my past life working with factory auto engineers from the field sharing and convincing them there was something brewing and contributed to numerous factory TSB’s.   It always blew me away how they would quietly share back that “This is a problem”.  There were many issues where I was the first to ring the bell.   I now know very little but that same alarm goes off. 

  • 1 month later...
Robert Wigand New Member

Robert Wigand

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just had the same problem with 2019 Silverado. Spinning starter with no engagement. Three hours later when tow truck arrived of course it started. I have appointment in a few days with dealerships and I will repost their prognosis. 750 miles on this truck.  Should not have this problem 

Edited by Robert Wigand
  • 8 months later...
Jessica92 New Member

Jessica92

Posted
Posted

I have a 2019 Sierra and it won’t start at all it doesn’t crank the dash lights will come on as well as the radio but then turn back off a mechanic said it could be a short circuit somewhere but idk what to do at this point or how much it’s going to cost 

Rob Mugs Enthusiast

Rob Mugs

Posted
Posted
On 10/7/2020 at 9:31 PM, Jessica92 said:

I have a 2019 Sierra and it won’t start at all it doesn’t crank the dash lights will come on as well as the radio but then turn back off a mechanic said it could be a short circuit somewhere but idk what to do at this point or how much it’s going to cost 

Not at all the same issue.  You should still be under warranty so bring it in

 

On that note, I DID just have the exact problem mentioned above and CEL light

  • 8 months later...
Theynine Enthusiast

Theynine

Posted
Posted

My 2021 5.3 with 7000 miles did this to me today.  Tried four times.  Sounded like an electric machine gun until I buttoned it back off.  Let it sit a few minutes and it fired up like there was nothing wrong.  Hasn’t done it since,  but now my confidence level is out the window.  What if it works a while and then strands me in the middle of nowhere by some fishing lake?  Totally blows.  Any updates?

GJR1212 Enthusiast

GJR1212

Posted
Posted
On 7/9/2021 at 4:53 PM, Theynine said:

My 2021 5.3 with 7000 miles did this to me today.  Tried four times.  Sounded like an electric machine gun until I buttoned it back off.  Let it sit a few minutes and it fired up like there was nothing wrong.  Hasn’t done it since,  but now my confidence level is out the window.  What if it works a while and then strands me in the middle of nowhere by some fishing lake?  Totally blows.  Any updates?

There are other threads on this subject as it relates to 2021 trucks.   The problem in this thread seems to be about the bendix gear not engaging.   Your problem sounds more like the one I have had on my 2021 3.0 diesel.   The starter engages but the engine will not fire so it just cranks until the ecu times out the starter at about 15 seconds.   The problem appears common on both gas and diesel trucks.    GM is aware of the problem but they have not issue a fix and the dealers are clueless.    Search something like "Cranks over but will not start"  or "Starter times out".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...