Jump to content

Upfitter switches

Truckchauffeur
 Share

Recommended Posts

FirstAscent Enthusiast

FirstAscent

Posted
Posted
My just picked up my 2020 2500HD Duramax. As I bought off the lot, and the truck I selected did not have the upfitter switches optioned, so I need to 100% self install.  I took a look under the hood, and the firewall pass thru doesn't seem to include the "nub" that is cut to allow the power pass thru. My truck was mfg in Feb 2020.  I can't tell from reading the past pages of posts, so I'll ask. Does the upfitter install work with diesel? I'm ready to order the parts, but as has been noted many times, the parts are not specified for the 2500s (although I get it that they fit), just not sure about the Duramax. Maybe the power pass thru is different?  I can select the Upfitter option on the chevy.com website to build a truck, so I think it will work. I'd just like confirmation.
 
Thanks
 
Edit:  I climbed up on a ladder to peer into the cavernous engine bay and the firewall. I looked way farther back and saw the "nub" that is used for the pass thru. I also went under the dash I spotted the connector taped to the harness near the fuse box. Sure sounds like it will work. Debating if I should just cut a hole in my existing (one button start version) knee bolster instead of buying the one with the outfitter switch cut out.  I guess time to order...

Yes you can install in a duramax no problem. I did in mine.

Btw, the factory doesn’t really install much for you, you still have to do 98% by yourself (or pay a shop).
All the factory does is install the knee bolster with the switches in there (not wired) so it only saves a little time.
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 146
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Kevin Monaghan
Kevin Monaghan

They do light up too, the 4 blunt cuts out the bottom are for your connection. #5 is the roof beacon wire that is coiled near the 3rd brake light. (snowplow prep pkg)

Say When
Say When

I’m happy to report that my 2020 Black-on-Black GMC Sierra 2500HD SLE CC LB 4WD "L8T” Gas truck was delivery on 02/14/2020 with Upfitter Switches Factory installed.

Robo9831
Robo9831

Well the first picture is similar to the one in my truck. Just a different color. Well I added a 5 aux switch panel to it today. I didn’t want to cut into my dash just to add some switches. Plus I wan

Posted Images

Gerstein1989 Enthusiast

Gerstein1989

Posted
Posted
On 12/13/2019 at 9:48 PM, Kevin Monaghan said:

https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/1314/UI Bulletin 153_wip.pdf

Mine came loose in the truck, install is customer/ upfitter responsibility. looks like a big job.

 
Hey wondering if you had any issues with the fuses in switched ignition. My upfitter switches work when I have the fuses set on constant. If I have them on switched the relays don’t engage. Wondering if you ran into this and if you have any idea why this might happen. As working fine since I installed them and today it started acting up. Thanks. 
troydej New Member

troydej

Posted
Posted

Im actually looking to add these as overhead aux switches in my Ford... anyway i think i just need the physical buttons and ill wire everything to a relay box, ect, to mate with my wiring.

 

Two questions:

-Id like to know if these are momentary buttons? or "push and lock" then "push to release"?

-And would anyone be able take dimensions of the buttons including bezel?  it looks like maybe 1"x4" but its hard to tell. 

Kevin Monaghan Enthusiast

Kevin Monaghan

Posted
Posted
On 7/15/2020 at 7:23 PM, Gerstein1989 said:
 
Hey wondering if you had any issues with the fuses in switched ignition. My upfitter switches work when I have the fuses set on constant. If I have them on switched the relays don’t engage. Wondering if you ran into this and if you have any idea why this might happen. As working fine since I installed them and today it started acting up. Thanks. 

I installed everything and still have not used them for anything as of yet. All on constant power for now. Worst case, you should be able to bring it back to the dealer  as it is an OEM option/accessory. 

 

Gerstein1989 Enthusiast

Gerstein1989

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Kevin Monaghan said:

I installed everything and still have not used them for anything as of yet. All on constant power for now. Worst case, you should be able to bring it back to the dealer  as it is an OEM option/accessory. 

 

Hey thanks. I actually figured it out. There’s actually an ignition fuse under the hood and it wasn’t making contact with the fuse properly. Pushed the pins closer and now I have no problems 

  • 4 weeks later...
Indycanard New Member

Indycanard

Posted
Posted

I just installed the Upfitter switches in my 2020 HC.Took almost 6 hours. It would have been 4 hours, until I dropped a screw under the center console. I ended up totally removing the console and Bose subwoofer box to get to the screw. It was found. Otherwise the install went fairly well. I'm sure I could probably do it again in under an hour if I had to. I was overly careful to not break/bend/stretch the plastic bits. I picked up the whole kit from someone who got one with their truck but decided to do something else.

 

The kit I had was for a non push button start. Since mine was a push button start, I cut a square hole in my bolster and installed the switch block.  I have the non-push button start black bolster (84487351) with upfitter switch cutout available if anybody wants it. $20+shipping. I'm near Seattle.

 

 

  • Thanks 1
Indycanard New Member

Indycanard

Posted
Posted
On 7/16/2020 at 5:25 PM, troydej said:

Im actually looking to add these as overhead aux switches in my Ford... anyway i think i just need the physical buttons and ill wire everything to a relay box, ect, to mate with my wiring.

 

Two questions:

-Id like to know if these are momentary buttons? or "push and lock" then "push to release"?

-And would anyone be able take dimensions of the buttons including bezel?  it looks like maybe 1"x4" but its hard to tell. 

The rectangular cutout for the switch block is 1.5" x 3.95'. The switches are "push and lock" then "push to release". When turned on, they sit a bit below flush and are back lit. When off, they sit more flush and unlit. They toggle relays in the added fuse box you can hear switching.

 

LSX Z28 Enthusiast

LSX Z28

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Indycanard said:

I just installed the Upfitter switches in my 2020 HC.Took almost 6 hours. It would have been 4 hours, until I dropped a screw under the center console. I ended up totally removing the console and Bose subwoofer box to get to the screw. It was found. Otherwise the install went fairly well. I'm sure I could probably do it again in under an hour if I had to. I was overly careful to not break/bend/stretch the plastic bits. I picked up the whole kit from someone who got one with their truck but decided to do something else.

 

The kit I had was for a non push button start. Since mine was a push button start, I cut a square hole in my bolster and installed the switch block.  I have the non-push button start black bolster (84487351) with upfitter switch cutout available if anybody wants it. $20+shipping. I'm near Seattle.

 

 

I did the same, except I had the bolster with push button start, and I needed one the one without. 

  • 1 month later...
Daniel Dusablon New Member

Daniel Dusablon

Posted
Posted

I have plow prep package, under the seat was the plow upfitter package(8466970)  listed in bulletin 147, as well as the wire harness (84732643) in 161 . I'm not sure if the dealer just didn't get the switches or I need to order it, is there anything else I need? does the switch just plug in somewhere under the dash? seems like the power listed in bulletin 153 is the same as the plow upfitter package? You'd think if your truck has plow prep package, the switch would be part of it automatically

Mikemjr1 New Member

Mikemjr1

Posted
Posted
On 8/13/2020 at 10:06 AM, Indycanard said:

The rectangular cutout for the switch block is 1.5" x 3.95'. The switches are "push and lock" then "push to release". When turned on, they sit a bit below flush and are back lit. When off, they sit more flush and unlit. They toggle relays in the added fuse box you can hear switching.

 

Does anyone know of a "momentary switch" that is available to replace one of the push on  push off switches? I would like to use one of these buttons for an air horn. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Roy V Enthusiast

Roy V

Posted
Posted
On 10/2/2020 at 1:25 PM, Mikemjr1 said:

Does anyone know of a "momentary switch" that is available to replace one of the push on  push off switches? I would like to use one of these buttons for an air horn. 

I plan on using one switch to turn on the air horns and wire tap off the original horns to trigger the relay of the air horns. This way, both horns will work off the horn button. Yes the factory horn will blow at the same time but you'll never hear it.

Roy V Enthusiast

Roy V

Posted
Posted
On 10/2/2020 at 1:25 PM, Mikemjr1 said:

Does anyone know of a "momentary switch" that is available to replace one of the push on  push off switches? I would like to use one of these buttons for an air horn. 

I plan on using one switch to turn on the air horns and wire tap off the original horns to trigger the relay of the air horns. This way, both horns will work off the horn button. Yes the factory horn will blow at the same time but you'll never hear it.

Roy V Enthusiast

Roy V

Posted
Posted

I guess after this is installed, you still have to drill through the firewall to get your power wires outside to your accessories where you need them?

gearheadesw Senior Enthusiast

gearheadesw

Posted
Posted (edited)

Im still amazed this is the way we buy new trucks now, have to install our own ordered parts. What's next, we have to install our own oil to get it off the lot?

Edited by gearheadesw
Roy V Enthusiast

Roy V

Posted
Posted

I finished the rest of the install the factory left out tonight. My knee bolster was already installed by the factory. I wasn't about to take the whole dash apart to mount the fuse/relay box even though I do this kind of work for a living. The factory should have screwed it in place while the bolster was out. I was able to get the two screws in behind the installed knee bolster with my fingers and with a short socket (7 mm) and a swivel head 1/4" drive ratchet, tighten them to the box. Reaching up behind the bolster and clicking in the two plugs wasn't too bad either.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 719 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • lowrider
      Range RA007 DFM Module

      By lowrider · Posted

      I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Tyler Gibbs
      2022 2500HD with a new RSI SmartCap

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • fm2176
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By fm2176 · Posted

      My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...