Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

After the recent recall for Emission System upgrade to comply with gov standards (done 2 weeks ago) the base idle speed has increased to over 800rpm. Used to be just above 500rpm. Dealer says the higher base idle speed is "with limits". I don't agree. Talked to 2 drivers of similar trucks today and both said there base idle speed is just above 500rpm. These are company trucks so they don't know if recall upgrade was performed on the trucks they are driving. The exact scenario is that when I start the engine, idle is normal at just over 500rpm. It stays normal when shifting into DRIVE. Then start driving and at the very first stop 700m from my house, it base idle is over 800rpm. It stays like that until I shut down the engine and it is back to 500rpm when I start the engine again after work. But only until the first stop when it stays above 800rpm. This has been going on for the past 2 weeks (during which I also did a 1200km highway trip). I cannot find a reference to base idle speed on this engine. Is 800rpm considered normal? If it is my "new normal" I'll be selling the truck as it is driving my crazy with the added noise sounding like a jet engine at startup.

Edited by jaws3
spelling
Posted

Go to a different dealer.
 

Example:

 

We had oil pressure gauge on lml suddenly read 120 psi anytime above idle. 

 

GMC dealer said there was no max spec for oil pressure just minimum. I suggested they change sending unit as everything was fine the first few years. They politely offered me an oil change I’d have to pay for  
 

I complained to GM customer care and setup an appointment with Chevy dealer across town. They replaced sending unit and all was back to normal. 
 

Original dealer must have gotten a call from GM because they called me and offered a free oil change as an apology. 

Posted

Good idea but not easy. Next dealer is 200km away from here...

Posted (edited)

Aftermarket floor mats? 

 

Position sensor for skinny pedal loose or out of adjustment?

 

I'm not buying dealers 800 rpm soy either.

On the diesel sites lots have reported having the recall done -- no one has reported an increase in idle speed. 

 

 

Edited by redwngr
Posted

No aftermarket floormats. Everything as it was prior to the recall except the 800rpm. But thanks for corroborating that it is not normal.

Posted

Good point ho

7 hours ago, hollywoodsle said:

image.thumb.png.0081ca072cbe96c063749b5018ad92c8.png

Good point.  

 

They can run high idle at startup, sorta like automatic choke on an old gasser.

And they can run higher for a reason like electical load, coolant temp and so on. 

They also will run higher shift points when cold.

 

My response was interpreting the op's description as never returning to a low idle once fully warmed to normal.  

 

Posted

It will also run higher idle when Regen is active iirc on mine it is right around 800-900 rpm .  Make sure it completed a Regen.

 

Posted (edited)

Yes, idle never returns to baseline. This is not a "variable" idle rpm. It is over 800rpm all the time. Except at start up when it will idle at nase rpm  ut as soon as I drive off and stop the first time, it is above 800rpm and does not ho down until I shut down the engine

Edited by jaws3
Clarification
Posted
6 hours ago, white94rx said:

Your truck is in the middle of a regen. Drive it longer and when it's done the idle will go back to normal.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

Thank you white94. In my original post I stated this has been going  on for 2 weeks since the software update. It includes daily driving as well as a 1200km weekend trip. Surely that should be far enough? I have also noticed over the past 3 days TV that the gear change occuring just above 50km/h is very rough. As if the truck "jumps" at that changeover. Not sure if it is related but the truck is rapidly becoming very unpleasant to drive. Will make another call to dealer as that seems to be my only ootion. Apart from selling it.

Posted
On 4/25/2020 at 11:31 AM, white94rx said:

That definitely should have been far enough. Mine usually takes about 20-30 minutes.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

Mine does it in exactly 20 miles if kept above 40 mph

Posted
1 hour ago, curver900 said:

A call to gm customer service is probably in order or have another dealer or this dealer reflash it

Have an appointment with the dealer next week to look at this again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...