Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
For anyone interested...
I asked C2airplay if it would work on my 20 Silverado 2500. They told me if my truck had  “C Port” in the console, then it would not work. 
I confirmed I had C Port, but ALSO had regular hdmi port. They responded that it would still not work. Apparently the mere presence of the C Port makes it incompatible right now. I don’t know why, but that’s what they said. 
 
So anyone who has LTZ or HC, probably has issues with it. Hope this helps. 


Could be my issue but it works intermittently. Not a big deal as I am using it flawlessly in my car.


Ryan B.
Posted
Amazon sells this one through Prime so I guess you could try it out and if it doesn't work send it back.  Beats waiting for China shipping and restocking fee.
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FC3B2QF/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=wireless+carplay&qid=1599262746&sr=8-4
OOS
Not sure about returns because it doesn't look like a Prime sale

Sent from my SM-N975U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
On 9/2/2020 at 11:33 AM, txab said:

The Great One has returned!  :D

 

 

we.png

 

Haha! I bought the CPlay2Air module and can't get it to work in my '19 HC.

 

spacer.png

 

Hope you folks are doing well!

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Received the CarPlay2Air yesterday, and it worked right out of the box. I undated the firmware, after that it would not connect to my 2017 LTZ. I followed the instructions to totally disconnect it and then reconnected it, that did not seem to help. I tried that again (did not seem to work) and then went for a drive. After a few minutes the carplay button came on, but I could not run carplay, hitting the button did nothing. I power-cycled the media player, and hit the carplay button again. Carplay launched via CarPlay2Air and it just worked. Worked for the rest of the day. It does take some time to connect (up to 20 sec) when I leave and return to the truck.   We will see how it works today.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Waking up this thread for anyone who has still has their CPlay2Air and/or Carlinkit (They are the exact same) and still have not gotten it working.

When I went to update the dongle, the highest version it was giving me was 2020.10.28 but I figured out you can manually flash the firmware using a usb flash drive. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY MESS UPS YALL CREATE, Flashing firmware like this could Brick the dongle and make it completely useless!

 

Here are the steps to Flash a higher version of the firmware

 

1.) format a flashdrive of any size (USB A) to FAT32

 

2.) Download the firmware from https://github.com/ludwig-v/wireless-carplay-dongle-reverse-engineering onto the now formatted flashdrive, I Used the Custom 2020.12.10 and it works perfectly for my truck (Make sure to rename the file to U2W_Update)

 

3.)Connect the CPlay2air/Carlinkit to a USB wall adapter, wait for the solid red light

 

4.)put the flashdrive into the usb port  on the dongle (red and blue light should start flashing back and fourth)

 

5.) GIVE IT 5 MIN to finish flashing

 

6.) Solid red light should appear when finished

 

7.) when finished, unplug the dongle from wall adapter then remove flashdrive from dongle and plug into Silverado!! should work great!

 

If red light doesnt appear you may have bricked the device and now it is garbage. (still try it out)

 

here is a thread I read that might answer any more questions you have (page 187):

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/carplay-adapter-to-convert-to-wireless-carplay.2193978/page-187?post=29208724#post-29208724

 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...