Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I have a 3.0L Diesel and there was a recall.  So, I figured why not get the first service done since Im passing 3,000 miles-even though the angel on my shoulder is saying "DONT DO IT" ...

 

I drop off to the service guy I always use (he knows to go over my vehicle cuz if something is wrong, I become "that" customer).

 

So far, so good.  Tell him to go ahead and do the service and change the oil and -by the way- "make sure your guy uses the right oil. It's a diesel"

 

Calls back in the afternoon- she's all ready to go.  I drop in and start reviewing the work order.  Here's where the fun begins.

 

Order reads: 6 Quarts of oil (supposed to be 7).

AC/Delco  Dexos 1 5w-30 (supposed to be DexosD 0w-30)

 

Tell my service writer - dude, your guy put the wrong oil in.  He says,"No, that's what the Colorado diesels use. Same stuff" and goes and grabs a bottle.   I tell him NOPE, I break out the manual, find the part number and he disappears. Me "I told you this was gonna happen. Get me the stuff and I'll do it myself."

 

15 minutes later.  "Ok, we called GM and you're right. We used the wrong oil. But, we dont have that oil in stock" SMFH. "But we have it at another dealer for you to pick up (10 miles away)."  Gee thanks and this is now 5pm, they close at 6.

 

So I drive home and park truck, jump in my car and snag the right oil and end up doing it all over myself.  Can I get an UN F****ing believable here?

 

Do your own oil changes.  Not even the dealer gets it right.  I can only imagine the quick change places. Not to mention, if some other poor bastard didnt read the paperwork and check the numbers, 7500 miles a quart short and wrong oil.

 

 

 

 

Posted

Could you not let them figure it out? I wouldn't want to drive it like that. Maybe you needed your truck back. Can you imagine them denying a warranty claim over this?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Well, I have their paperwork saved for sure.

 

I would have left it. ... but, no oil in stock, closed till Monday and Im making a 250 mile trip tomorrow.

 

I prefer to do it myself. Cant trust the idiots.

Edited by steve841
  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah I’ve got that first service free but question if I really want to use them. GM engineers knew something when they called out that oil.

Now if they come back and say these alternative oils can be used then I’d be OK with that. They have to stand behind the warranty after all.

BTW - perhaps they put in a 120PSI oil pressure gauge knowing bubba was going to put on 15W-40 diesel oil? I’m lucky to get 60PSI at high RPM. With a thick oil I’m guessing your close to 100 PSI!

Posted
1 hour ago, steve841 said:

(supposed to be DexosD 0w-30)

 

The 3.0 calls for  Dexos D 0W - 20    I'm with you on having to watch the service techs on using the correct oil/filter. When I scheduled my first oil change I asked if they had the correct oil and filter, service manager assured me they had plenty of 15W-40? I had to inform him that the 3.0 took a different oil and filter than the 6.6, I had to go to another dealer to get the correct oil and filter. So on my next change they owed me the oil,  I bought my own oil just in case they didn't have the correct stuff, said they did, but when I get truck back all the oil change sticker said was Dexos 0w-20 so I went back questioned if they put the correct oil in as the tech was new and only on his third day. The owner of the dealership personally went back and checked the trash for the empty bottles. They had actually used the right stuff. I'm just about ready to start doing my own changes in the future.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have my first oil change coming up soon....

I have all the supplies and will do it myself.

Most dealers use bulk fill oil and you have no real idea what they are putting in your truck.

 

I could care less if the first one is free.... I don’t need a free headache.

  • Like 1
Posted

yeah I just do it myself....I hate going to service dept for anything, takes forever and I don't want to sit  there for couple hours waiting....its a half day lost going there…..anything I can do to my truck makes my life a lot easier

  • Like 1
Posted

Regular 0w-20 is everywhere but Dexos-D 0W-20 for the Diesel is only at certain dealers. The Diesel version oil produces less byproducts that can damage the emissions or so were told.

Posted

When I just went through financing my new truck, I had the finance manager pull the "You have to use our 24mth free oil and filter warranty for the rest of the warranty to be valid"... "Any DIY will void your manufacturer warranty" [emoji1787]

Righty then, just give me my truck....

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

Posted

I feel your pain. I went in for recall and ended up with a dent in my driver door and a filthy passenger seat. They'll be getting a bill for PDR guy. They wanted to fix it and I said NFW you can't even do a software update without F'n up my truck.

Dealers suck. All they're good at is taking your money. On the other hand, the local Ford dealer I use for my Shelby is great.

Might be time to go to a Raptor.

Posted

Amazing, even with a literally road map these dealership provide techs today, they cant even follow simple guidelines on what parts to use for a basic service. Now imagine letting these same guys rip apart an engine or interior.

Posted

Man that's BS, my dealer has a dedicated diesel shop in the back that are fully stocked with the Dexos D and oil filters.  The first service was nice since they do a tire rotation and add 2.5 gallons of DEF, I'll be continuing to use them in the future (oil change only).

Posted

That sucks ! Quite embarrassing for that dealer. There were at least 3 people that repair order traveled through and the last guy has an oil cap that says what oil the truck calls for ?

 

It is a special oil that has to be special ordered and is kind of hard to get, at least the last time I looked.

 

Hopefully you got it all resolved though.

 

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

After reading this board and others so i was fully I informed, I dropped my 2020 GMC 3.0 at the dealer for its first service/oil change. I made sure to point out to the service writer several times that i wanted the correct oil as this truck had specific requirements. I even gave him the specific type so they would screw it up - Dexos D 0-20W. He said no problem, they do lots of gmc diesel truck oil changes. I even called him back later that day to double check they were putting the right oil in. Once again- no problem, we’ve got this,etc.  

Ok get notice truck is done and my wife goes to pick it up. Last night when i got home she gave me the paperwork they gave her and guess what—— WRONG OIL....  they put in 6 quarts Delvac 15-40W.  Sigh....

This morning i emailed the general manager very nicely about this and he called me back. He checked and they have the Dexos D 0-20W there and now I’m dropping it off again. 

So lesson for everyone if that hasn’t been repeated enough in this thread and others, check, check and recheck what they are putting in your truck or do it yourself to be sure!!!

PS- thanks for all the knowledge I’m gleaning from all of you...Otherwise I’d be a dumb consumer!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 874 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...