Jump to content

Transmission Cooler Upgrade

elgavilan123
 Share

Recommended Posts

rlme36 Enthusiast

rlme36

Posted
Posted

So the duramax diesel version of the oil cooler has the line attachments in the same  location as the 6.0L with the only difference being the connection size, thats a great bit of information, thank you for posting.  Do you have the part # handy or is it just 2017-2019 diesel transcooler and it will pop up?

flyingfool Senior Enthusiast

flyingfool

Posted
Posted
On 7/15/2020 at 3:31 PM, elgavilan123 said:

It pulls the toy hauler fairly well, but my 6.0 has shortie headers, 3.5 to 4" magnaflow exhaust, cold air intake and a performance tune by Blackbear performance. On some of the really large hills it will drop into second gear and maintain 52 - 53 mph. The hills going into Payson and from Payson to the top of the rim are the worst. I have a Magnuson supercharger on the way that will add around 120 hp and torque. Mileage runs around 7 or 8 on flat ground running 65 - 67 mph.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

https://paceperformance.com/i-15340456-24242552-2000-2400-rpm-stall-6l90e-zl1-cts-v-converter.html

i'm not sure what the stock  stall is, or how much torque the zl1 converter can take, but I can see  you got serious chain of upgrades after the Magnusun gets tuned in.

 

  • 5 months later...
rlme36 Enthusiast

rlme36

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 7/15/2020 at 11:22 AM, elgavilan123 said:

The diesel cooler is available online and on ebay for around $150 to $160. The diesel cooler fittings are 20mm setrab fittings and I could not find any thing that stepped it down to the smaller size other than going to - AN fittings. I found a 20mm male with a - 6 AN female and then a transmission line kit with the proper fittings for that. The online hose kit goes for about $160-$175 and includes the transmission fitting.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 

Thanks for the thread it started me looking for a proper adapter.  I also used the logic that if the 2016 diesel version fits in the gas version, by extension a PPE Part 124064000 should also fit, since they state its a drop in fitment for the 2015-2016 trucks.  i have noticed the 2017 has a diff part # compared to the 2016 re factory coolers and believe the diff is how the connection is clocked.  the 2016 seems to face directly out and one that's parallel with cooler.  The 2017 based on rockauto shows one facing at a 45 to the front and one parallel.

 

Either way i think i've come across some potential adaptors, one in theory shouldn't need any more space to fit the other I'm not sure how big it is.

 

  • I've come across an adapter for a Chrysler part # 52119547AA  or dorman part # 800-723 that appears to have the correct quick connect and the correct male threads.  According to the diesel version of the quick connector on dorman its a 7/8-14 thread male which is what started me down this path.  The gas version is a 3/4-16 male thread on the quick connector for the cooler lines.

 

  • another adaptor that came up was a Lawson Products 7/18-14 x 3/4-16 hydraulic reducer adaptor which should allow to reuse the gas quick connector and this part to connect into a diesel factory or upgraded aftermarket unit.  

 

I  haven't yet ordered the above parts to validate, but was going to start with the Diesel vs the chyrsler part number.  to ensure the threads are the same.  Hope this helps.  for the ~$200 for the factory part i'd rather spend the added ~150 on the PPE version.

 

rob

Edited by rlme36
rocnrol Enthusiast

rocnrol

Posted
Posted

This.... This is why I like to be on fourms. This is perfect information and a great upgrade!!

Thanks for sharing [emoji109]

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
Bigaustino Enthusiast

Bigaustino

Posted
Posted

I am looking at doing this as well as adding and external spin on filter, just a few questions. 1 what size thread is the fittings on the diesel transmission cooler 2 what size thread are the fittings on the gas transmission cooler 3 what size thread is the fitting on the radiator that the pipe to the cooler is? I plan on doing AN lines and would like to have all the fittings I need before I tear it apart. Thanks in advance for the response. 

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 years later...
davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

I don't think your gas truck w have an Allison.  I would suggest first figuring out exactly what transmission your truck does have, perhaps by talking to your dealer for a build sheet, googling for it, and/or figuring out where your rpo code list is on your truck, and then decoding them (as within the list is the code for what transmission you have).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...