Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 7/25/2020 at 9:13 AM, lebag335 said:

I’m in Texas too. How does the state sticker affect the windshield tint. I’m concerned about removing old sticker and damaging the tint? 

We use a clear vinyl static rectangle and stick the registration sticker to that then stick it to the windshield.  That way you can pull it off without damaging the film. We only do 80% clear UV film.

Posted

update, got 30 ceramic on front doors and 50 on windshield with no issues so far.  

Posted

Update. I had my windshield tinted with Air80. Ended up with some bubbling around the rear view mirror so they redid it. No issues with the electronics either time. It definitely makes a big difference with the heat inside the truck. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Be careful tinting your windows!! Some will say nothing below the "AS1" Line, some say 4 inches some say 6 inches etc... What may be legal in your state may not be legal in another. By that I mean if it's legal in your state and you drive into another state "They CAN get you!!! Most states do not allow much other than factory tint on driver and passenger side windows but its OK to tint back and rear side windows completely black. I know of many folks whos tint had to be removed "ON-SITE" before being allowed to continue!!

  • Like 1
Posted
Be careful tinting your windows!! Some will say nothing below the "AS1" Line, some say 4 inches some say 6 inches etc... What may be legal in your state may not be legal in another. By that I mean if it's legal in your state and you drive into another state "They CAN get you!!! Most states do not allow much other than factory tint on driver and passenger side windows but its OK to tint back and rear side windows completely black. I know of many folks whos tint had to be removed "ON-SITE" before being allowed to continue!!

This probably isn’t true.. if this were the case, you could get pulled over and ticketed for not having a front plate in states that require 2 plates.
Posted
16 hours ago, tmo said:


This probably isn’t true.. if this were the case, you could get pulled over and ticketed for not having a front plate in states that require 2 plates.

By the way I am a former officer on a state level. All operators of motor vehicles must comply with vehicle requirements (Private or Commercial) in the state in which they are operating a vehicle. Plates and Window tint are separate issues!

  • Like 1
Posted
17 hours ago, tmo said:


This probably isn’t true.. if this were the case, you could get pulled over and ticketed for not having a front plate in states that require 2 plates.

This is totally true. If the police officer wants to enforce his state law on window tint. He has every right too. Most don’t because they see you have a different license plate. But they can. My sister lived in Nebraska. Drove over to Iowa and got pulled over for her tint because there front window laws are different. 

Posted
5 minutes ago, TNTSilverado said:

This is totally true. If the police officer wants to enforce his state law on window tint. He has every right too. Most don’t because they see you have a different license plate. But they can. My sister lived in Nebraska. Drove over to Iowa and got pulled over for her tint because there front window laws are different. 

You are correct when you say "Most Don't" BUT they can!!

Posted
On 7/21/2020 at 6:08 PM, birdsdawordxxx said:

Has anyone ran into any problems with getting their windshield tinted. 

Cause being able to actually see is way over-rated.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Has anyone actually had any issues?

 

I just picked up a 2023 LTZ and my tint shop who I've used for 8 years just told me this. I have to sign a waiver to get Air 80 put on my front windshield (they use Llumar.) He said they'd shove towels/etc down in there to be safe, but I will need to sign the waiver.

Posted

I have 35% ceramic 3M tint on the whole windshield of my 22 AT4. It has been like this for 6 months and I have had zero issues with visibility or the electronics in the truck. I had the same on my 21 AT4, also with zero issues. I have used the same tint guy for 10+ years and he does great work. 

Posted

Zero issues.  Have the Air 70 on the windshield and 15% on the front, rear and sunroof.  I can see the HUD just fine.

 

As far as the inspection sticker, I ended up buying static cling stickers.  I cut it out a little bigger than the inspection sticker and then stuck it to the windshield.  Before attaching the inspection sticker to the static cling sticker, I put the adhesive side on a t-shirt so that it picks up lint.  After doing this a few times, I pressed it to the static cling sticker that is on the windshield.  Now I can peel it off with no issues and I don't have to use a scraper.  I also attached the toll stickers the same way.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...