Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just ordered my pedal monster and I dash gauge for my 2020 5.3 rst. I’ll keep you guys posted on thoughts. The product is new and seems safer then the pedal commander. Anyone with experience with banks as a company or their products?

Posted

Looks Nice, I like the Pod too but it's a bit pricey! 

Posted

I have one and love it. You can control it from the idash or from an app on your phone (uses bluetooth to connect to phone). Nice thing about it is't powered from the OBD port, not the 5v from the pedal. If you pull the power the pedal return to stock.

I had a pedal commander on a previous Chev and it caused codes due to taking power from the 5v to the pedal. I think it was causing the 5v to drop below a certain voltage causing the codes.

 

Jay

Posted

I did some research on this one, looks like its much better than the others out there. If you watch the video on their site, it explains the 5v power issues and the danger it causes. 

 

I will most likely be purchasing this in the future.

 

Would you recommend getting it with the dash gage or is it easy enough to control from your phone?

Posted
2 minutes ago, nobaddays said:

I did some research on this one, looks like its much better than the others out there. If you watch the video on their site, it explains the 5v power issues and the danger it causes. 

 

I will most likely be purchasing this in the future.

 

Would you recommend getting it with the dash gage or is it easy enough to control from your phone?

I got the gauge with it. If nothing else I can use it to check and clear codes if I ever throw any. Only thing I wish banks would add would be a way to control auto stop. I see other products can do it solely through the obd port. 

Posted
10 minutes ago, nobaddays said:

Would you recommend getting it with the dash gage or is it easy enough to control from your phone?

Same question from me.  What are the pros to the gauge that make it worthy of 2x the price of the standalone unit?

Posted

I am going to be getting one very soon, Banks makes GREAT stuff.  You can tell they engineered this thing right, is well thought out.  I will not be getting the gauge or pod...I mean, after the first day or two of playing with it, you won't touch it again!  But, I know a lot of guys like all of the gadgets and sticking stuff all over the truck, so to each their own.  I like keeping the interior clean and uncluttered, will just use the phone app to set it up and forget it.  Was happily surprised that the price was in-line with the competition, and it seems is a higher quality design.  

Posted

I just placed my order for the pedal monster yesterday.  Not a fan of the hesitation when pushing the gas pedal...  Will report back once I receive it and installed.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

The owner of Banks is an OCD mofo, and anything that they make has been thought out and engineered to the hilt.  I would trust anything that they make without question.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone here have updates on how their experience is going with this unit?

Posted

Install was super easy.  I have been very satisfied with the unit and I forget it is there most of the time.  For the first few days, I played with the settings and finally settled on the best feel for me.  No regrets.

  • 9 months later...
Posted

What is the difference between the Banks Pedal Monster and the Pulsar LT for a 6.2 2021 Silverado? I have heard good things on both.

Posted
On 7/31/2021 at 9:51 AM, cva617680 said:

What is the difference between the Banks Pedal Monster and the Pulsar LT for a 6.2 2021 Silverado? I have heard good things on both.

James, Jay from Banks here. Both units are indeed similar. The biggest difference in the units is the PedalMonster's safety features, namely Reverse Safety. This function sets you back to stock throttle position when you're in reverse. This helps you from jack-knifing your trailer when backing up, or submerging your truck when backing in the boat at the launch ramp. Pulsar also does not have Active Safety bypass. If PedalMonster detects an issue, either internal or external, it's normally-closed relays latch shut, returning you to stock throttle sensitivity. Both of these safety features are patented. 

Posted

I wonder how using both the PedalMonster and Pulsar LT would function?  PedalMonster a pedal/throttle sensitivity booster and the Pulsar a tuner type device?

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...