Jump to content

AMP power steps

Ghost Sierra
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ghost Sierra Enthusiast

Ghost Sierra

Posted
Posted

I just had a set installed on mine and they make a helluva clunking noise when they lower and close.  Anyone else ever have this problem?

88junior Enthusiast

88junior

Posted
Posted

Same on mine. I checked after they were installed to make sure they weren't hitting anything and they were just barely touching at the rear of the cab on the mount. Shaved maybe 1/16 of an inch off and the noise is still there. I've gotten used to it over the last year though. When I hear it walking away after parking it, I know the steps are up where they belong. Same when I get in to drive away. 

Davidj98 Enthusiast

Davidj98

Posted
Posted

I have had 2 sets, no noise, might check if you have any binding between to arms.  You can do this by loosening Allen bolts under rail, should be four total per side.

OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted

Make sure they are in the right set of holes. If they are too far back they bang the body mount brace on the frame.

Ghost Sierra Enthusiast

Ghost Sierra

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the replies.  I have to take it back in the shop next week and I will have to look at what y'all suggested.

Gduck24 Enthusiast

Gduck24

Posted
Posted

Mine and my buddies both clunk.  I checked clearances and nothing is hitting.  Don't notice it much now. 

Duramax3oh Enthusiast

Duramax3oh

Posted
Posted
On 8/20/2020 at 8:13 PM, OnTheReel said:

Make sure they are in the right set of holes. If they are too far back they bang the body mount brace on the frame.

This is exactly what happened with mine. The rear AMP arms kiss the body mount brace when it retracts back up. I need to shave a little of that brace down like mentioned above.... what's the best way to do that??? And would some sort of sealant over the shaved part be needed to "protect" it from the elements?

 

There likely will be some noise/clicking... but the *clunk* I get is definitely not necessary lol

HighWay New Member

HighWay

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Duramax3oh said:

This is exactly what happened with mine. The rear AMP arms kiss the body mount brace when it retracts back up. I need to shave a little of that brace down like mentioned above.... what's the best way to do that??? And would some sort of sealant over the shaved part be needed to "protect" it from the elements?

 

There likely will be some noise/clicking... but the *clunk* I get is definitely not necessary lol

Just installed my steps this weekend and they did hit the frame brace.  I used a dremel with a metal cutoff wheel, then painted the bare metal black.  Easy and no more clunk.

  • Thanks 1
OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, Duramax3oh said:

This is exactly what happened with mine. The rear AMP arms kiss the body mount brace when it retracts back up. I need to shave a little of that brace down like mentioned above.... what's the best way to do that??? And would some sort of sealant over the shaved part be needed to "protect" it from the elements?

 

There likely will be some noise/clicking... but the *clunk* I get is definitely not necessary lol

If you want to match the factory frame coating it’s Daubert Nox-Rust, available online. Good for touching up yearly everywhere on the frame.

 

The issue with Amp steps on these trucks is that not all cabs have the preferred set of holes to place the rear brackets in. Ideally you’d mount the rear bracket in holes that are about 6-8” forward of the rearmost holes.

 

That allows the hinge to clear that body mount easily. I got lucky on mine and had those holes, but a lot of trucks don’t.

 

B43BC9DF-B6D0-41EE-8D60-5B8CFB3F2C10.thumb.jpeg.7aed70223ac838f7784a1ae7b3f22a2a.jpeg

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 923 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Z45
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Z45 · Posted

      Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...