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Posted

Looks like OP is in Wisconsin. Man that's the one thing I don't miss about Michigan (born and raised there)...the salt and long winters that eat away at vehicles. Like what others have mentioned, I used to put a little anti-seize on the center of the brake disc/drum when I lived in the northern states. I know GM says not to do this, but never once had any wheel issues over the years.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ive been using anti sieze on my studs and the center diameter my whole life.  Its always been my friend.  I think that I can safely say that GM is.......well you know.  I have never had to beat off a drum or rotor.?‍?

  • Like 3
Posted
8 minutes ago, Malibu SS said:

Ive been using anti sieze on my studs and the center diameter my whole life.  Its always been my friend.  I think that I can safely say that GM is.......well you know.  I have never had to beat off a drum or rotor.?‍?

I agree with the guys that use the anti seize. The key is NOT to gob it on. Clean both the hub & wheel hub dia with a wire brush, then apply a LIGHT coat of anti seize. I too have not had to beat the wheels off after using this method. I'm sure GM has a reason for it but not sure what it is. Dissimilar metals will react with each other and add the water & salts and you have an issue. AND after twisting a lug bolt off my X5 from being over tightened or frozen on & spending the best part of a day drilling it off, a VERY LIGHT coat of anti seize on the lugs eliminates this issue. Just don't over torque them.

Posted
Ive been using anti sieze on my studs and the center diameter my whole life.  Its always been my friend.  I think that I can safely say that GM is.......well you know.  I have never had to beat off a drum or rotor.[emoji1860]

You use it on the lugs too!?!??? I get the hub and wheel, but I’d never put it on a lug. You need torque and friction there!


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  • Like 1
Posted

Have always put it on the lug studs. Its not the friction, its the stretch in the stud that you are trying to acomplish with torque.  If you have friction with a rusty stud, you are not getting a correct torque reading. I have never lost a wheel on a car or truck either.  Lug nuts are not an interferance fit,  there is slop between the threads. When you torque that nut, any antisieze is squeesed out to voids in the threads,  hence you still have some metal to metal contact.  Now, the friction comes from the tapered seat of the lug nut against the wheel.  Ive never had one back off yet.   Just my opinion and my way of doing things.  ,, and too old to care about any other way. Choice is yours  about how you do it.

  • Like 2
Posted

Loosen lugs and let car roll about 10’—slam on brakes hard, works every time 

  • 4 years later...
Posted

I heard a clunking sound on my way to work this morning. When I came out of work the front right tire still was inflated but piece of white painted metal rod was sticking out of the tire. Drove to a gas station, lowered the spare, loosened the lugs, jacked it up, removed the lugs but the wheel will not come off. Tried to pry it off with the manufacturer supplied tire iron. The iron broke at the square hole. Had some tools with so I hit the wheel with a ballpeen from the backside and tried to pry it off with a 15" crescent wrench. It wouldn't budge. Did my best Karate kid impression several times. Still stuck. Went inside and bought a patch kit, used it, and filled the tire. Hopefully it's still inflated at 4:30 tomorrow morning.  And by the way, how much is a new Gmc tire iron for a 2018 sierra?

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