Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
8 minutes ago, Jettech1 said:

I do.  I was just wondering where the bolts originated.  Like is it attached from the inside under the headliner or are the bolts visible from the topside.

They are not visible topside. My guess is the bolt would hold a clip in place and that spoiler clips onto it

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

First time posting here..but let it be known that this issue is still on the 2023s. My truck was built early February of 2023 and took delivery in late February. A few weeks back noticed water on my rear seat, cleaned it off and though it was because i opened the slider after it rained. A few days later same thing, but didnt open my slider. Then this past weekend washed my truck only to discover it was leaking on both sides. I took it to the dealer today and they confirmed the rear glass. They're going to replace it completely. Only this is, the replacement is coming from Canada..and they expect it in 2 weeks. My truck has less than 3,000 miles on it.

Posted
1 hour ago, TS423 said:

First time posting here..but let it be known that this issue is still on the 2023s. My truck was built early February of 2023 and took delivery in late February. A few weeks back noticed water on my rear seat, cleaned it off and though it was because i opened the slider after it rained. A few days later same thing, but didnt open my slider. Then this past weekend washed my truck only to discover it was leaking on both sides. I took it to the dealer today and they confirmed the rear glass. They're going to replace it completely. Only this is, the replacement is coming from Canada..and they expect it in 2 weeks. My truck has less than 3,000 miles on it.

That's not good.  I hope they get it fixed soon for you.

Posted (edited)
On 5/3/2023 at 6:19 PM, TS423 said:

First time posting here..but let it be known that this issue is still on the 2023s. My truck was built early February of 2023 and took delivery in late February. A few weeks back noticed water on my rear seat, cleaned it off and though it was because i opened the slider after it rained. A few days later same thing, but didnt open my slider. Then this past weekend washed my truck only to discover it was leaking on both sides. I took it to the dealer today and they confirmed the rear glass. They're going to replace it completely. Only this is, the replacement is coming from Canada..and they expect it in 2 weeks. My truck has less than 3,000 miles on it.

Surprised they are replacing the glass.  I just had my truck in for a leak above the rear window on both sides this past Monday.  They removed the spoiler, replaced the bolts, caulked it and reinstalled the spoiler.  Have to wait 24 after the repair to get it wet. I washed my truck yesterday and no more leaking, but did notice that they had caulk residue around the window in a few places and a few very light scratches.

Edited by shadow gray 2020 hd
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Update from my previous post: the rear glass was replaced last week. Im decently happy with the results..no scratched paint, no water leaking. Just need to take it back to my to tint guy and get it retinted. 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Same issue here.  Four separate watermarks from streaming water down the back window. Enough water that the front mats were wet, from back to front - living in the NW, so it was raining pretty crazy a week back during a longer vacation trip, but in reading this I might ask the dealership about installing solid rear window.  If they give me any confidence they can do it - hooking up rear defrost again correctly which I'm hoping still works, not damaging anything else and putting it all back together right, I'll report back.  

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 6/2/2023 at 11:20 PM, NWSierra said:

Same issue here.  Four separate watermarks from streaming water down the back window. Enough water that the front mats were wet, from back to front - living in the NW, so it was raining pretty crazy a week back during a longer vacation trip, but in reading this I might ask the dealership about installing solid rear window.  If they give me any confidence they can do it - hooking up rear defrost again correctly which I'm hoping still works, not damaging anything else and putting it all back together right, I'll report back.  

This is certainly not what we like to hear, NWSierra.  Please know, customer satisfaction is extremely important to us. Our team would be more than happy to take a closer look into the concerns with your truck. To do so, please send an email to [email protected] with ATTN: NWSierra/GM Trucks in the subject line.

Please include your contact information, VIN, a brief description of your concern, and the name of your preferred dealership. We look forward to hearing from you. To learn more about GM’s Privacy Policy, please visit https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.html. The information you provide may be monitored and recorded and is subject to the GM Privacy Statement.
 
Privacy Statement | General Motors
Your privacy is important to General Motors. This Privacy Statement addresses the personal information GM collects and how GM handles that personal information.
www.gm.com
 

Posted (edited)

Some talk here about whether this is from the window or scoop bolts. Pretty sure scoop bolts are fine for most of us - although the 15 or so bolts on the top of the cab needs to just go away in the next body/build/version, if only for piece of mind.  I don't know who thought a scoop and 15 holes on a cab would be a good idea - but amazingly they seem NOT to be the issue (at least for me). 

 

Videos were too large to attach, but you can see what I found in a couple pics below - all bolts dry, window leaking in streams from the sides, cracks, etc. you take the trim and headline off, more easily seen how the outer portions of the window tag the headliner, somewhat makes it look like the leaks are above the window.  Maybe some do have those scoop bolts leaking but mine came from 4 separate spots. Two are pictured below. 

 

IMG_2249.jpeg

IMG_2250.jpeg

 

Solid back window coming this week, through glass specialty shop.  No dealership from me, too many times I've come back to pick up my truck with ten other things broken and needing repair.  Learned my lesson there.

 

I'll start a separate sting and stop hijacking this. I need to make sure I wire up defrost right (slider has connections for each side window, solid window will just have one set), and I am curious about an overhead console that deletes the button for the rear slider.  It'd be nice to delete that button if I've gone to a solid back window.  

Edited by NWSierra
  • Like 1
Posted

yep, most leaks come from the actual frame cracking, not the bolts. I don't understand why they use a plastic frame. Using a metal frame would eliminate this. I can't see how all these warranty claims are cheaper than switching material🤦🏼

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 6/17/2023 at 11:22 AM, NWSierra said:

Some talk here about whether this is from the window or scoop bolts. Pretty sure scoop bolts are fine for most of us - although the 15 or so bolts on the top of the cab needs to just go away in the next body/build/version, if only for piece of mind.  I don't know who thought a scoop and 15 holes on a cab would be a good idea - but amazingly they seem NOT to be the issue (at least for me). 

 

Videos were too large to attach, but you can see what I found in a couple pics below - all bolts dry, window leaking in streams from the sides, cracks, etc. you take the trim and headline off, more easily seen how the outer portions of the window tag the headliner, somewhat makes it look like the leaks are above the window.  Maybe some do have those scoop bolts leaking but mine came from 4 separate spots. Two are pictured below. 

 

IMG_2249.jpeg

IMG_2250.jpeg

 

Solid back window coming this week, through glass specialty shop.  No dealership from me, too many times I've come back to pick up my truck with ten other things broken and needing repair.  Learned my lesson there.

 

I'll start a separate sting and stop hijacking this. I need to make sure I wire up defrost right (slider has connections for each side window, solid window will just have one set), and I am curious about an overhead console that deletes the button for the rear slider.  It'd be nice to delete that button if I've gone to a solid back window.  

It seems some of these truck’s issues stem from the upper end options. Not to make light of any problems but that is a big reason I went with a WT(and because I’m cheap) it has a solid rear window(at least it’s factory tinted though ha) and no multi flex tailgate among other things that I’ve noticed seem to have issues. 
 

just made me think of it when you said you’re going back to a solid rear window. 
 

hopefully it fixes the issue. 
 

these trucks should not have water issues. I mean I remember when I was a kid with old 70’s and 80’s trucks they all leaked in a car wash but in 2023 in a new truck of this cost? No. 

Edited by Pryme
  • Like 4
  • 6 months later...
Posted
On 6/19/2023 at 4:41 AM, Pryme said:

It seems some of these truck’s issues stem from the upper end options. Not to make light of any problems but that is a big reason I went with a WT(and because I’m cheap) it has a solid rear window(at least it’s factory tinted though ha) and no multi flex tailgate among other things that I’ve noticed seem to have issues. 
 

just made me think of it when you said you’re going back to a solid rear window. 
 

hopefully it fixes the issue. 
 

these trucks should not have water issues. I mean I remember when I was a kid with old 70’s and 80’s trucks they all leaked in a car wash but in 2023 in a new truck of this cost? No. 

 

Went to solid rear window. really happy with it. Always liked the look even if it was less one upgrade option. The old window was a mess, cracked at the top/bottom of each "slider" section. Kind of shocking to see how bad of shape it was in - there was no amount of sealant/caulking that would have fixed that.  defrost plugged right in.  no leaks.  awesome.  

  • Like 2
Posted
On 12/25/2023 at 11:16 AM, NWSierra said:

 

Went to solid rear window. really happy with it. Always liked the look even if it was less one upgrade option. The old window was a mess, cracked at the top/bottom of each "slider" section. Kind of shocking to see how bad of shape it was in - there was no amount of sealant/caulking that would have fixed that.  defrost plugged right in.  no leaks.  awesome.  

I like the look too of the solid rear window. Looks clean. 

  • Like 2
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Welllllll update from my last post in the thread....less than a year after having the rear glass replaced for a leak on both sides, i noticed a water trail on the inside again today after a rain storm. A closer look revealed a crack in the plastic frame. Curious to see what the remedy will be after already being replaced. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, TS423 said:

Welllllll update from my last post in the thread....less than a year after having the rear glass replaced for a leak on both sides, i noticed a water trail on the inside again today after a rain storm. A closer look revealed a crack in the plastic frame. Curious to see what the remedy will be after already being replaced. 

We are sorry to hear you are still facing troubles with your 2023 Silverado and would like to investigate further for you. Please send us an email to [email protected]. Be sure to include your Username and Forum name in the subject line with additional details. We look forward to your email. 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 12/25/2023 at 9:16 AM, NWSierra said:

 

Went to solid rear window. really happy with it. Always liked the look even if it was less one upgrade option. The old window was a mess, cracked at the top/bottom of each "slider" section. Kind of shocking to see how bad of shape it was in - there was no amount of sealant/caulking that would have fixed that.  defrost plugged right in.  no leaks.  awesome.  

What did you do with the open/close harness now that you changed it to a solid window? Im having the same issue, water inside.  Dealer added the silicone already 4yrs ago. Thinking of going with a solid window also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         
    • Around 2008 if memory serves they took sulfur out. That was when diesel went up. 
    • Question for you Grumpy, why is diesel so much more than gasoline? Seems to me that it may be slightly a little less refined than gas and it doesn't have 10% alcohol which presumably lowers the price of gas
    • Thanks, so being a different beast altogether, anyone know what the "optimal" temp is for the 10L80/90 for proper shifting?
    • How many years have I pointed out every point in that link to the folks here and been avalanched with criticisms and outright hostilities at times? I ran counter to even the great CUSTOMBOSS and Lake Speed Jr and the half dozen experts on YouTube and in the final.....GM, Physics (Stribeck) backs that Grumpy old Bear.    Honestly, I never said a thing engineering hadn't studied silly and laid in concrete during WWII. But I'm old, the information is old and yet, the Laws of Physics are eternal.    Okay there is one exception. I vehemently disagree with their use of the word 'tolerances' when what it meant is "clearance".   The clearance is the distance between two objects. The tolerance is the degree of acceptable variation permitted in that clearance. I.E., piston to bore clearance is 0.004" with a tolerance of +/- .0002" so the clearance is in specification if it lies between 0.0038" and 0.0042". Cutting that 'tolerance in half has ZERO impact on lubrication requirements. Makes for more difficulty in manufacturing.  But a tighter clearance 'MAY'. Depends on finish. Anyway....   It's one of those statements made by people to make themselves look smarter than they are to convince people who are as un-enlighten as they seem to manipulate their behaviors. But hey, the blind leading the blind puts them both in the pit. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...