Jump to content

P0157?

DareDog
 Share

Recommended Posts

DareDog Enthusiast

DareDog

Posted
Posted

2005 1500 5.3L 160k. Gotten this code. The O2 sensors are new in last 2 years. New Acdelco parts put on. Could i have a defective part? How to tell if sensor is actually bad? Or something else? Coolant temp sensor? Truck runs normally and no decrease in fuel economy.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

It won't change fuel mileage or running performance because it's the sensor after the cat converter.

 

The code says that it's possible there is a wiring issue with the sensor. Be it within the o2 sensor harness itself or with the wiring going down to the sensor.

 

If you want a free test that only takes your time you should flip flop the rear o2 sensors side to side. If the code changes to the Bank 1 sensor 2 fault, then you know that sensor is the cause. If the fault stays as a Bank 2 sensor 2 fault then you have issues with that side still.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
DareDog Enthusiast

DareDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It won't change fuel mileage or running performance because it's the sensor after the cat converter.

 

The code says that it's possible there is a wiring issue with the sensor. Be it within the o2 sensor harness itself or with the wiring going down to the sensor.

 

If you want a free test that only takes your time you should flip flop the rear o2 sensors side to side. If the code changes to the Bank 1 sensor 2 fault, then you know that sensor is the cause. If the fault stays as a Bank 2 sensor 2 fault then you have issues with that side still.

Looked at it today. Took sensor out that is throwing the code. Last year put New sensor and put extender on it with also.. Well extender rotted out. Took it out with o2 sensor. Nothing is in there now. Drove it and CEL went off.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 5 weeks later...
DareDog Enthusiast

DareDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So now got P0158 code. Swapped o2 sensors. It did not change the code. So its not the sensor then. Researching online it could be ECM, fuel pressure regulator, coolant temperature sensor. Thinking now changing coolant temp sensor. with scan tool its reading 192F. Shouldnt it be 210F? Have not done anything and CEL went back off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

The thermostat in that truck should be a 192 or 195 so that temp is normal. The cluster and real coolant temp are never the same, the gauge will always report higher than actual on those years.

 

I'd be looking at the harness now because both those codes are circuit codes.

  • Like 1
Ian Mills Enthusiast

Ian Mills

Posted
Posted
58 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

the gauge will always report higher than actual

How much higher? As in the gauge will show ~210 when it's actually ~195?

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

Yeah, pretty much.

 

The NBS and NNBS trucks are pretty well known for that. The gauge will be about 10-15 degrees over the actual temp in the engine. The later 2014-2018 trucks are a little more accurate but still off some. The newest trucks are much more spot on from everything I've seen.

 

Even the warm up temps are more off. Once it creeps past 160 degrees it's more like 120-130 degrees.

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
DareDog Enthusiast

DareDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The CEL now goes off on its own. Then will only come back on when truck is idling for over 4 minutes. Is it electrical? Some where in wiring?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
DareDog Enthusiast

DareDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

now its constant with cel code now.   now getting p0158.  High voltage in 02 sensor bank 2 sesnor 2.   could it still be the wiring?  going to check wire at some point.  

  • 2 weeks later...
DareDog Enthusiast

DareDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

How do i test the sensor? What setting on multi meter. I tested it and getting 0.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

O2 sensors run from 0-1000mv, a good multimeter will have a Millivolt setting.

 

A properly working rear o2 sensor will switch back and forth as the engine warms up and settle around 600-700ish mv if the cat converter is working correctly. A bad sensor will read near zero or really high off the charts all the time.

DareDog Enthusiast

DareDog

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have blue driver scan tool. Hows it look? 53365c77bf85bbc296b214ec7652ac63.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

P0158 reflects what you see in the scanner. It's a high voltage code and the sensor is stuck around .900mv.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In their own words:    https://blog.amsoil.com/how-engine-sludge-forms-and-how-to-prevent-it-2/   [Quote] Synthetic Oil Helps Prevent Sludge Fortunately, sludge and varnish deposits are something that can be controlled. Using thermally stable synthetic base oils reduces the rate of degradation (oxidation).   Antioxidant additives further help reduce the rate of degradation. One of the most widely used is zinc dithiophosphate. Not only is it an excellent oxidation inhibitor, but it is also an outstanding anti-wear additive.   High-Quality Additives Fight Sludge Fortunately, it is possible to address many of the issues that occur after the initial oxidation stage. Additives, such as detergents and dispersants, help promote the suspension of contaminants within the oil and keep them from agglomerating.   Detergents, which are also alkaline in nature, assist in neutralizing acids generated in the sludge-building process. Antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives are consumed during use.   To achieve maximum life expectancy, use a motor oil with high concentrations of antioxidant, dispersant and detergent additives.  [End Quote]   So quality base oil and then the last sentence above. TBN and ZDP levels matter. The one thing not covered was sufficient viscosity. Sad.     And yet we now have since API SN lower amount of them all with the only real change being a slight up tick in base oil selection. Along with lower concentrations of everything that makes oil work and lower and lower viscosity there is still an insistence on longer OCI's.    How low does the peanut butter and jelly level have to get before we say it's just white bread folded?    The new smoke and mirror treatment is the 'additives are INVISIBLE' to UOA testing with a health dose of TRUST ME.    I'm not picking on AMSOIL. This is coming from all of them. Every last one of them that abandon the low wear model in favor of the high mpg/EPA compliance model. 
    • KARNUT
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By KARNUT · Posted

      First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Z45
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Z45 · Posted

      Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...