Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 10/12/2020 at 4:17 PM, Nick2019AT4 said:

Ali, good luck with tuning your GMC, I've been waiting forever, bought 2019 GMC AT4 6.2 L 10 Speed last March, put K&N Cold Air Induction, ordered it with GMs Borla Exhaust, had it Dynoed 360HP, 384 TQ, Waiting for tune, they tell me GMC has computers locked up on there trucks. This truck is pretty quick with just this, 1/8 mile 9.23, actually beat a friend of mines 2018 Ford Raptor till he got a tune. 

DSCN0180.JPG

Nice truck! So it seems like you saw pretty good improvement with the kn intake over the gm performance package one? Any check engine lights or issues?

Posted

Casey, The so-called PERFORMANCE COLD AIR INTAKE GM sells is garbage, made about 2 hp 1tq, DYNOED, K&N made 16hp 14tq, big difference, and no, to your question of ck engine light. I've been putting K&N Cold Air Intakes on my trucks for a long time and Dynoing them, they make good power and no issues.

  • Like 1
Posted
29 minutes ago, Nick2019AT4 said:

Casey, The so-called PERFORMANCE COLD AIR INTAKE GM sells is garbage, made about 2 hp 1tq, DYNOED, K&N made 16hp 14tq, big difference, and no, to your question of ck engine light. I've been putting K&N Cold Air Intakes on my trucks for a long time and Dynoing them, they make good power and no issues.

Nice numbers. You should show this to some “non-believers” on this site that state CAI and exhaust don’t improve performance. So little do they know. 
When I added my Corsa exhaust and S&B CAI, I noticed a big difference in acceleration and throttle response. 

Happy Thanksgiving and take care. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Casey. Most of these people talk a lot of crap, and most don't spend the money to DYNO these products before and after, I have, and Have the DYNO SHEETS to prove it, that's the only way to really know if they are adding power. I also had the BORLA Exhaust put on thru the dealer, got a hold of BORLA and they told me they make the exhaust for GM and it puts out about 15 hp, I didn't DYNO that because I ordered the truck with it. But my real #s were 360 hp 384tq at the wheels, would like 400 hp 400 tq, if they ever come out with a tune. The truck is quick for having a 3.23 rear end, beats Dodge, with there 3.90 rear end and Ford with there 4.10 rear end, Toyota Tundra has a 4.30 rear end and can't come close to this truck, the DYNO and DRAGSTRIP proves a lot.

Posted

Trevor, Your 100% right, Exhaust and Cold Air Induction makes a big difference, I gained around 31 hp and about 28 tq by doing that on my truck.

Posted

Those numbers are about avg anyway when most consider that drive train loss is ~15%. Your numbers are 15-17% when compared to crank numbers.

 

If someone gains 40whp from a tune I will eat my shorts. I can't even gain that kinda of power on my L83 5.3 on E85 and I've been tuning with HP Tuners for years. Under the curve gains are where we feel the most, if it picks up 15-20hp from 2000-4000rpm, you should notice it.

  • Like 2
Posted

You guys dynoing with stock tuning in the wrong gear to avoid the limiter are not getting the best data. Then again we are talking about CAI and exhaust here.

I spend most of my day everyday on the dyno tuning cars/trucks so Im pretty well versed in this stuff. The L87 ( I own one) does not dyno or respond to mods any differently then an L86. There are just some slight variances in driveline loss between the A6, A8 and A10 offered over the years.

I have not bothered with tuning mine yet due to the cost. I will be doing so when I install a 2650 in early 21.

Posted

Trucks will far exceed the speed limiter if you tried to dyno in the correct gear. The 6 speeds is like 4th gear and the 10 speeds is like 6th gear. Even if the speed limiter was gone you still have the driveshaft to worry about.

 

Like the post above said when you have to dyno in gears 2 or 3, maybe even 4th the data isn't as accurate.

  • Like 1
Posted
Trucks will far exceed the speed limiter if you tried to dyno in the correct gear. The 6 speeds is like 4th gear and the 10 speeds is like 6th gear. Even if the speed limiter was gone you still have the driveshaft to worry about.
 
Like the post above said when you have to dyno in gears 2 or 3, maybe even 4th the data isn't as accurate.

Yes I am aware of where the 1:1 gears are in A8/10 and do not use those but the guys running these in 3rd gear to avoid exceeding 100 mph are not getting the most accurate numbers. The stock driveshafts generally hold to 120 if the angle are not bad from lifting or lowering the wrong way.

The guys who have trucks with a 112 limiter can get away with 4th on the A10
  • 8 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Has anyone taken the plunge and got a Holley tuning product installed, looking for feedback, on the edge, predator or flaspaq, 35hp 35ftlbs under the curve and peak 16hp and 20ftlbs with a smother idle and tip in sounds decent to me. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I am waiting for someone to bite the bullet and do the L87 with Diablo, SC, Holly as well.  Else I might be the one during Xmas time.

Posted

I’m waiting on the refresh from GM. Still hoping for a supercharged truck. Crossing my fingers. If not might have to go this route and tune it with Diablo. 

Posted

I’m waiting on the refresh from GM. Still hoping for a supercharged truck. Crossing my fingers. If not might have to go this route and tune it with Diablo. 

Posted
4 hours ago, TNTSilverado said:

I’m waiting on the refresh from GM. Still hoping for a supercharged truck. Crossing my fingers. If not might have to go this route and tune it with Diablo. 

No supercharged truck coming from GM.  I'll Venmo you $5 if I'm wrong.  We'll find out next week on the 9th.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 705 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...