Trans Flush Question

[Jimmah]

I havent seen this mentioned as yet, but it concerns doing a flush with the t-stat already flipped. I assume a few people have done so as many of us have done the mod.

Is there anything different done? Meaning, such as in this video of removing the lower drivers side line. Will the transmission still flush the same way with the t-stat flipped? Or should I be taking another route?

 

 

[CamGTP]

It would still be the same.

 

Or you can just suck the fluid out the dipstick tube and replace what you pulled out. I use my Mighty Vac fluid extractor for that.

[Grumpy Bear]

I, personally, am NOT a fan of AMSOIL generic ATF's. I prefer Red Line D6. That is just me. I also believe the first change should also include the filter. I took advantage of that installing a PLM 8 quart pan with a drain plug. This turns a several hundred dollar fluid change into the cost of fluid driveway service. That said, an opinion is just that. Do as you wish. 

[Jimmah]

Yeah, I'm not big on amsoil either. What I was refering to was the dis-connect of the drivers side trans line and if the same procedure works with t-stat flipped for flushing.

Yes to CamGTP, I will be draining the pan initially with a pump before removing, also changing filter.

[2020_3500HD]

Grumpy, why the red line over the amsoil?  I am coming up on my 5000 mi get the breakin fluid out change and if you can let me know why?  I have always used Amsoil before but am open to others if it is better for my application by the way I have the 6l90 transmission.  Thanks in advance

[Grumpy Bear]

12 hours ago, 2020_3500HD said:

Grumpy, why the red line over the amsoil?  I am coming up on my 5000 mi get the breakin fluid out change and if you can let me know why?  I have always used Amsoil before but am open to others if it is better for my application by the way I have the 6l90 transmission.  Thanks in advance

AMSOIL may very well be a fine fluid and perform just as well as any other PAO/POE juice out there. Wait, there are but two. The other is Red Line.

 

Okay that out of the way. Each fluid has a distinct friction modifier profile. Dexron is not the same as Type F or Mercon or even Dexron III. AMSOIL is sold as a universal fluid with out a descriptor. That doesn't mean it isn't a good fluid, it means I'd be buying a pig in a poke. Red Line is a Dexron VI fluid so I am assured the friction modifiers are ON THE MONEY not just "Pretty close". 

 

Look, Lots of guys use AMSOIL and never have an issue with it. I'm just a guy who likes to know what it is not told it's going to be fine. The friction modifiers not only give the box is shift quality and personality but it's life service potential. 

 

You could run a 15W motor oil in an automatic transmission and it would "work". Now for how long.....and how well

 

It's just an opinion of mine that I feel is closer to the truth...that's all.  

[flyingfool]

i only remove the top upper trans line and run a hose into a bucket, i leave the lower line attach to radiator., the low side hardly pulls any fluid. the pressure side is the top line. remove t-stat completly and block by-pass, i feel the flip trick works but might inhibit fluid flow, so i delete it completly.

 

 i flush with 2 gallons of new fluid every year

Edited October 23, 2020 by flyingfool

[KARNUT]

When I was pulling heavy. Hauling my equipment around. After I visited the exhaust shop. I would drain the transmission by removing the line to the radiator start my truck. When it sputtered I would add a little Amsoil see it through. Then hook up the line refill with Amsoil transmission fluid. We did that with all our trucks until they started using synthetic themselves. Than we did it a little later on pulling trucks. Never a failure ever once we did that. We only been doing that for decades, so what do we know?


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[Black02Silverado]

My 2002 had AMSOIL ATF in it from 10k miles on.  Did a UOA with the fluid having 100k on it and it was good.  This is even towing a 4k lbs  10x20 enclosed trailer.  It served me well when I sold it with over 200k miles on it.  Every vehicle I purchase gets switched over as soon as I can.  Like my 2019 Silverado and it's 10sp.  Once I get some extra time, it is going to the dealer to have them swap out the fluid for AMSOIL's ATL. 

 

My 2014 Cruze diesel's transmission runs at 225°F and that is one reason to switch to a good synthetic.  Heat is hard on the transmission and seals.  So having a fluid that will not break down like standard fluid is important.

 

 

[diyer2]

My 93 Silverado 4 speed (4l60E) lasted over 200K miles using Castrol Transmax Dex6. 1 filter change. Fluid removal/ replace via dip stick tube every 15-20k miles. 

Edited October 23, 2020 by diyer2

[Grumpy Bear]

Had the motor replaced in my 06 Honda Civic at 2K miles for a casting flaw. They forgot to refill the transmission and the service guy used it over the weekend. Picked it up on a Monday. checked levels right in the lot. NOTHING on the dip stick. Could see the bottom of the pan but had over 200 more miles on it that when I dropped it off. There was a conversation.    

 

It now has 230K on it and works like a dream.

 

What's my point? 

[Jimmah]

8 hours ago, flyingfool said:

i only remove the top upper trans line and run a hose into a bucket, i leave the lower line attach to radiator., the low side hardly pulls any fluid. the pressure side is the top line. remove t-stat completly and block by-pass, i feel the flip trick works but might inhibit fluid flow, so i delete it completly.

 

 i flush with 2 gallons of new fluid every year

OK, thanks for info. Will doing it this way also empty/pull all the fluid from the rad as well?

[flyingfool]

36 minutes ago, Jimmah said:

OK, thanks for info. Will doing it this way also empty/pull all the fluid from the rad as well?

there cant be more than 500mL in the radiator and cooling lines, not of my concern. i just add fresh stuff once or twice a year.

[flyingfool]

4 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Had the motor replaced in my 06 Honda Civic at 2K miles for a casting flaw. They forgot to refill the transmission and the service guy used it over the weekend. Picked it up on a Monday. checked levels right in the lot. NOTHING on the dip stick. Could see the bottom of the pan but had over 200 more miles on it that when I dropped it off. There was a conversation.    

 

It now has 230K on it and works like a dream.

 

What's my point? 

the point is Honda's are built right!!  they say if you forget to put oil in a honda motorcycle motor, nothing will happend to the crankshafts they can go foreve. those Jap's are amaizing !

[Grumpy Bear]

12 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

the point is Honda's are built right!!  they say if you forget to put oil in a honda motorcycle motor, nothing will happend to the crankshafts they can go foreve. those Jap's are amaizing !

Okay I stepped into that one.

 

 

Look, guys drive a truck 10 years and put 100 K on it and think that is a high miler and say XYZ did ABC. 

Truth is you could have done nothing but top off oil for that distance (before AFM) and got a 100K from it.

Does that mean you shouldn't change your oil?

 

100K isn't much of a test.

Yet there are guys here than have had oil related failures well under that mark and blame it on the mechanicals.

 

Some guys get 250K from an automatic with out ever looking at it.

Some can't get 30K from one.

Ya think it's the oil or the load?