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Head bolt toque specs 5.3 vortex

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davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

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Posted

I would suggest getting a subscription to the full-service manual at a site like alldatadiy.com , it'll have the definitive answer to your question, and as well how to do the rest of the job right (like bolt pattern/specs for the intake and exhaust manifolds, and everything else you need to bolt up)...

KWD2 Enthusiast

KWD2

Posted
Posted

I agree with getting a haynes for your year model they are worth it

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

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Posted (edited)

Haynes is better than nothing, but having compared the full service manual with the haynes for my truck, and with other haynes manuals, I find most of the info in the Haynes to be generic and shared between all their manuals, with very little vehicle-specific info.

 

For comparison, the FSM for my truck is 5 volumes, of over 1000 pages each (so, 5 old school phonebooks), while the Haynes manual is 352 pages, and much of it is generic info that applies to all vehicles...

 

If you plan on generally getting other people to work on your truck, and only fix the odd bit yourself, get the Haynes, but if you want to diagnose and fix your truck going forward, the FSM will serve you much better.

Edited by davester
Ian Mills Enthusiast

Ian Mills

Posted
Posted
13 minutes ago, davester said:

Haynes is better than nothing, but...

Right, the FSM is way better but it's much easier and cheaper to get your hands on a Haynes and I know for sure that they have to torque spec for the head bolts

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted (edited)

The online subscription is pretty easy to get, and $50 for 5 years doesn't exactly break the bank...

Edited by davester
ChevyZ71# New Member

ChevyZ71#

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2 hours ago, redvett said:
  1. Dont forget the head bolts must be replaced each time they are removed they are  torque to yield.

Yea I got new ones just trying to figure out what to torque them to

Mike GMC Enthusiast

Mike GMC

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry, the first pic of the sequence did not come out well, missing info. All numbers are ft-lbs.

1608257704414649059060.jpg

Edited by Mike GMC
tlaw91 Enthusiast

tlaw91

Posted
Posted

Here at the dealer we take our impacts and hit them ugga Duggas on all the bolts in any sequence we feel, wait a couple minutes, then go for another round of ugga duggas. Works every time, no complaints, much easier on my back, etc etc etc
Don’t forget to prey when you turn it on the first time though that step is critical

  • 2 months later...
EXSlider400 Senior Enthusiast

EXSlider400

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just finishing up a set of lifters in an 07 NNBS RC SWB G80.  The 90 then 70 degree was almost impossible for me since I did not have the tool (and did not Mark lines on bolt heads) so after the 22 in sequence I went to torque further but it did not “feel” right... like it was supposed to torque but it would not and instead the boat was doing its thing and stretching. So needless to say I removed all of the head bolts bought new ones and then bought the tool. In all honesty the tool was a waste of money because that cheap dial tool didn’t work worth a crap because it kept slipping and not indicating the boat was turning so some advice make sure you mark the baldhead regardless because after a few bolts I stopped using the tool and just went off the marks.  Good gasket kit, clean surfaces and bolt holes, used copper spray. Should be done Thursday when the exhaust bolts come in. I purchased truck new in 06 and the motor has over 400k and for the $350 spent in parts it is a gamble every day it is driven anyway...only thing other than fluid/filter changes performed as required, I added cruise control and replaced an alternator.  For under 20k new, I “Got” my money out of the truck 
 

also had the driver rear exhaust bolt break off and could not get out so while heads were off I installed the $20 bracket fix. Know what is worth spending your money on. 

Edited by EXSlider400

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