Wanting to change all fluids - this a good idea?

[Waffle34]

2018 silverado 5.3L 6 speed auto z71 4x4. Coming up on 18K miles. 

 

Im of the mentality that fluid changes are cheap compared to rebuilds and i know gears and such have to wear into one another so the first few thousand miles cause alot of metal sludge doing this. This truck is the first new vehicle i have owned and want to keep it for at least 15+ years. So is it a good idea at lets say 20K miles change the front and rear differentials, transfer case, transmission, and brake fluid flush? Are the factory fluids what people recommend? Id imagine front and rear diffs already have full synthetic fluid.

 

speaking of trans theres the standard drop pan and change filter, or theres the full trans flush - which would you guys recommend for its first? 

 

ive been sticking to mobil 1 and napa gold oil filters for engine oil.

[TheGreatOne]

Change them all.....Amsoil is what I use.....but whatever suits you.....you could probably wait till 50,000 miles for tyranny, but everyone is different 

[Black02Silverado]

Sounds like a good plan.  Never hurts to change out the factory fluid for a higher quality fluid.

 

I do all my vehicles around 10k miles from new.  I'm a little behind on my 2019 because of the 10sp transmission and not being able to get it to the dealer due to being busy.

 

For the transmission a pan drop would be fine if going back with off the shelf fluid.  If switching out to a quality fluid like Redline or AMSOIL then I would do a complete fluid exchange.  That way you get the full benefit of the fluid and not a diluted mix.

 

If you are interested in AMSOIL send me your address in a PM and what you are looking to get and I can send a quote.  All GM-Truck members get a discount.

[Z45]

If you are keeping it like you said, might  just as well put in the best money can buy and IMO, that's AMSOIL.  OEM lubes are from the low bid supplier. That does not mean they are not any good but they also are not the best available, only that they are good enough for GM.  After the warranty is done, its your problem.  They make money selling parts, service and new vehicles, they don't want it to last forever, they want to sell you a new one. 

[scrapen]

If you like to change your fluid early and often, I would vote redline.

 

Why, because FCP Euro sells it and they have lifetime warranty on parts and fluids, including engine oil. (Only other brands they really offer are liqui-moly, motul, pentosin). This can be useful especially if you plan on owning long term. If you’re going to sell truck in a few years disregard and use whatever your heart desires.

 

I’m thinking of this route as my truck is about to turn 4 yrs old and I’m in the same boat where I may change all fluids even though I’m only at 14k miles right now.

 

 

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[Waffle34]

yea for right now i dont want to risk any warranty problems straying (even tho theres for sure better fluids) from the factory fluids. but after that yea i will want high end stuff. Clean factory fluid is always better than potentially dirty factory fluid.

 

i have used redline in my rangers manual trans and seems alright. Id put it in the rearend but really need to change the pinion seal and deal with that mess of a fluid change job haha.

 

What would be a fair price for at the dealer: front and rear diff fluid changes, transfer-case drain and refill, trans pan drop and new filter, and brake fluid flush?

[CamGTP]

I bet you they'd zing you for $500-600 because each job has a book time.

 

The front and rear diff and the transfer case can be done on the garage floor in no time. Transfer case takes 5 minutes, front diff maybe 10 because the plastic skid plate should be removed. They are both just drain and fills.

[Z45]

16 hours ago, Waffle34 said:

yea for right now i dont want to risk any warranty problems straying (even tho theres for sure better fluids) from the factory fluids. but after that yea i will want high end stuff. Clean factory fluid is always better than potentially dirty factory fluid.

 

i have used redline in my rangers manual trans and seems alright. Id put it in the rearend but really need to change the pinion seal and deal with that mess of a fluid change job haha.

 

What would be a fair price for at the dealer: front and rear diff fluid changes, transfer-case drain and refill, trans pan drop and new filter, and brake fluid flush?

You won't risk any warranty problems.  That's a scare tactic. 

Generally, the public is unaware that it is illegal for a vehicle manufacturer to tie the warranty of its product to the use of the manufacturers own brand of lubricant or filters. Federal law seeks to ensure competition within the marketplace and that specifically includes guaranteeing continued warranty coverage outside of the OEM-branded lubricants and filters. In short, you have the right to use the oil of your choice. If the lubricant did not cause the problem, the OEM warranty cannot be voided, period.

[jaimeastin]

I have a 2018 LT Z71 Double Cab with 5.3 and 6 speed transmission that I purchased in 2019 brand new.  I have hat for 18 months and I now have 40k on it.  I reluctantly and stupidly sold my 2013 FJ cruiser with 40K miles on it and got this truck.  After having a back surgery due to a car accident with someone rear ended me and my miata, I needed a truck bed as putting stuff on the roof for my FJ was a problem.  Hunting trips and two cross country from CA to Arkansas, one trip was extended to go up north to nebraska put the miles on it.  It is my daily now.

 

I changed my oil every 5-6k miles.  I used Rotella Gas Truck and I regularly send oil samples to Blackstone Labs for analysis.  I use GM blue filters from the dealer or wix filters.  Everything has been great so far.  After returning back to CA in October, I changed all fluids and added a few additions.

 

I changed the rear and front differentials with Amoils Severe gear.  I paid $18/qt. I changed the transmission and transfer case with the same GM transmission oil from the dealer... Paid $4.5 a qt at the dealer.  I got the transmission filter for $33 at the auto parts store.  I think I purchased 7 quarts of transmission fluids for the total job.  I also put on an air intake and a jlt catch can..

 

Very easy and quick job for all but the transmission... That you need a 2x4, rachet straps, pan and other mess preparation... And make sure you are prepared to tourque it all back together correctly.   My stupid torque wrench was out of calibration and I ended up breaking the head of a bolt... Thankfully the screw was sticking out on the other side of the transmission. So I was able to slowly unscrew it with some tiny vise grips on the upper end. No tapping or anything required.  

 

I am very pleased with my truck as American vehicles scare the crap out of me. I've always owned Japanese vehicles.  After this long road trip, towing a boat, and all these miles put on very quickly, I have not had any issues with my truck.  The transmission is fine.  Around 30k I started using the AFM delete module.  I am going to install some 5100.  My truck is the redline edition with 20" wheels... I am thinking about going to smaller wheels.  I don't need a show truck.  I need performance in the woods and not just looks on the street.

 

I'm telling you all this because I like you, want to have this truck for many years. I'm hoping to at least take this truck to 250,000 miles... So my interest in regular and early maintenance is very high. Especially because this is a GM truck.

 

Edited December 19, 2020 by jaimeastin