Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently bought a 2000 Silverado and have been making some updates to this 21 year old truck. I replaced every single bulb with an LED, makes for an amazing difference! I bought new headlight lenses to replace my old dirty cracked ones from Amazon. Even though they were $100, the light pattern was appalling and after just 2 weeks there is already water in my lenses.

 

I'm going to be sending these lenses back, but now I'm confused what to buy. I don't necessarily want OEM - I like the white/crystal look with colored LEDs for signals.

 

My biggest issue is that I know the OEM light adjustment brackets make it difficult to install certain LED bulbs because of the way they stick out farther than a normal bulb. The only nice thing about my replacement lenses is the bracket is different and allows for more space behind the bulb to install larger LEDs. This is what I need to be able to use the LEDs I already purchased.

 

So, with that in mind, can anybody recommend some good simple OEM like or totally clear lenses? When I look on Amazon for these there are just SO MANY choices, it's hard to tell what is garbage and what isn't. Maybe a particular brand that is really good?

Posted

I've bought many different headlights from the TYC brand from rockauto without issue.

 

Not sure that is what you want but for aftermarket stock replacements they have always worked for me.

Posted

I second the Rock Auto/TYC recommendation. I have three teenage drivers. I have replaced lights. I've had good results from TYC and fair pricing from Rock Auto. 

Posted

I agree on the getting the TYC from rockauto.com.  The only thing I'll add is that I purchased the CAPA certified TYC headlight assemblies.

Posted

Another easy thing to do is to run a bead of clear silicone around the edge where the lens is sealed to the housing before you install them for the first time. Take your time and do it cleanly and it works awesome. I've even made cheap Ebay lights work with that trick

Posted

Dorman's lamps for this application are pretty sketchy; better get this and this for the headlamps. Dorman's fine for the signal lights.  Use appropriate bulbs in low beams and these in highs (modified like this.) It is very important to aim the headlamps correctly.

 

"LED bulbs" -- any and all of them -- are unsafe, illegal, and not legitimate. There's a good, recent, detailed explainer here, and more general principles here.

Headlight bulbs are not like household light bulbs. In the house (office, garage, etc) it's pretty much a matter of putting in whatever bulbs put out the amount and type of light you consider adequate and agreeable. Headlamps are life-safety equipment, so they have to work right (just lighting up is nowhere near good enough), and they are precision optical instruments so they can only work right when equipped with the intended type of light source. For your car that means you really need to stick with halogen bulbs. There are better halogen bulbs than the originals, so you can improve the lamps' performance without making safety problems, and if that doesn't improve them as much as you want you can swap in the HID headlamp assemblies that were offered as an option on that car, but "LED bulbs" (and "HID kits") are a big, solid NO. 

  • 5 years later...
Posted
On 1/7/2021 at 12:01 PM, Ian Mills said:

Another easy thing to do is to run a bead of clear silicone around the edge where the lens is sealed to the housing before you install them for the first time. Take your time and do it cleanly and it works awesome. I've even made cheap Ebay lights work with that trick

bead is for what please explain?

Posted (edited)

Instead of cleaning the headlights I would like to get a set of LED headlights. Rock Auto has Halogen only or did i read that incorrectly?

 

Edited by lryfer
Posted
2 hours ago, slj2008 said:

check out Lastfit.com

 

thank you. need to get full assemblies not just the LED bulbs.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • 1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...