Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

When rotors and pads are the same size, swept area, then any change in braking performance comes from a change is the friction coefficient between those surfaces and it is a trade, grip and pedal for fade and dust. If you want more bite with the same wear, dust and fade you need more swept area. 

 

Brakes stop wheels/tires and tires stop trucks. When you add wheel/tire combinations that have more flywheel mass it takes more energy dissipation even for the same total mass of the vehicle and road speed. 

 

One item to look at is shock valving. You can really stop that pony short if it isn't diving taking bite out of the rear and overwhelming the front. Naturally grippier tires help as well. 

 

If you can get the ABS twitchy hitting the pedal hard you have enough brake, you need more ground grip. If not  you need more rotor grip. If you drive like that allot you will need a bondsman. ? 

 

My 2 cents  

Posted
On 1/23/2021 at 4:30 PM, papageoff said:

I just did all 4 corners with the power stop z36 kit and have been very happy. We also flushed the fluid and the brakes feel better than the day I bought the truck.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

Hi Papageoff- just wondering, did you find any of the bleeders seized with rust when you performed your flush?  I have a 2016, as does my buddy, and he did a brake flush and was surprised that the some of the bleeders were fairly rusted. I'm do for breaks soon and want to do a flush while I'm at it and nothing worse than dealing with rusted bleeders.

Posted

I ended up ordering the pursuit vehicle police pads and rotors from rock auto. I should have them by Wednesday hopefully. I was having a tough time finding a place that sells the k36’s. Every time I tried to order some, they would say the product doesn’t fit my vehicle 

Posted

Just ordered some EBC rotors they are about the only rotors I can smash on in the hills and not warp....priceless! 

  • Like 1
Posted

I used Napa fleet pads and their reactive one slotted rotors. They work great, obviously more dust with a metalic pad. The reactive one rotors have slots in them. Used them on my 04 and they made a world of difference. Not as much of an improvement on my 15, because the brakes are better from the factory. The best part is they're locally available and easy to warranty.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

Posted
Hi Papageoff- just wondering, did you find any of the bleeders seized with rust when you performed your flush?  I have a 2016, as does my buddy, and he did a brake flush and was surprised that the some of the bleeders were fairly rusted. I'm do for breaks soon and want to do a flush while I'm at it and nothing worse than dealing with rusted bleeders.
I'm sorry I thought I replied to this.

No none of my bleeders were seized. I've been there though. Snapping one of those bad boys is the start of a long afternoon.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

Posted
On 2/4/2021 at 9:15 PM, mookdoc6 said:

Just ordered some EBC rotors they are about the only rotors I can smash on in the hills and not warp....priceless! 

yes, i had the green stuff on an old B-body chevy and those pads never faded, but where noisy , only thing more annoyinging is slotted rotors buzzing under hard braking

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I ended up going with the AC Delco police pv pads and rotors. Shipped for $700 Canadian. Dealership wanted $1400. Being metallic, they do as some of you mentioned generate a ton of brake dust compared to the ceramic. I am quite happy with them though. I still have yet to really give them a work out. I’m still breaking them in

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 3/14/2021 at 2:31 PM, meirikm said:

I ended up going with the AC Delco police pv pads and rotors. Shipped for $700 Canadian. Dealership wanted $1400. Being metallic, they do as some of you mentioned generate a ton of brake dust compared to the ceramic. I am quite happy with them though. I still have yet to really give them a work out. I’m still breaking them in

How are you liking the police setup ? I Want to replace my brakes and rotors on my 2017 GMC 1500 ,im trying to get some more input on brakes.

Posted

I like them. Aside from having to clean my wheels every other day🙄. But they stop well. They’ve let me know that they’re better than stock

Posted

thanks for the reply , do you happen to still have the part numbers ?also  did you go with the police version for both of the front and rear rotors and brake pads?

Posted

I’ll have a look for the part numbers. I got them from someone on here. Can’t remember who. I got pads and rotors for both front and rear 

Posted

Can’t remember which is which but these numbers worked for the pv. I’ll have a look for my receipt 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey everyone,   For anyone looking at roof-mounted lighting for the Hummer EV, we wanted to share our M&R Automotive 50" PRO Roof Light Bar for the 2022+ GMC Hummer EV.   The curved 50" bar sits close to the windshield rather than sticking way up above the roofline. The mounting position is designed to keep the setup relatively streamlined while minimizing wind noise and maintaining full use of the factory windshield wipers.   A few details:   50" curved PRO light bar Fits 2022–2026 GMC Hummer EV Spot + driving beam pattern TIR optics White main beam Amber DRL backglow Approximately 15,410 measured lumens through the lens Mounts to factory accessory locations No cutting or drilling required Wiring runs down the A-pillar toward the AUX connections Designed to minimize wind noise Lifetime warranty Off-road use only     The 50" is an interesting middle ground for anyone who wants the visibility and mounting position of a roof bar without stepping all the way up to the larger 60" setup. For the Hummer EV owners here, would you go with the 50" for the lower-profile look or step up to the full 60"?  
    • My son got a hatchback withe the aero package for like 17k new. Great little car with amazing MPH
    • Yeah, I've given up years ago with that! I was able to load a few when I first joined the site sometime around '07. Then after maybe 20 pics, it said I exceeded the limit. Now every pic I try to post says I've "exceeded 1mb".   ONE MB??? That's Windows 95 ******, lol!! 
    • I get the same results with pictures. Then I figure it out. Then I forget. Screw it.
    • I guess I'm the only one on this forum who can't get effing pics to load here! Do you have to resize them to post, or am I just blocked from uploads?   I have the same luck with automotive electronics ... but this is the ONLY site on the net that I have this problem!   I'd post pics of what I'm working on ... but I CAN'T! 🤬       Just fabbed up the kickdown cable (had to extend the cable mount WAAAY out from the throttle shaft to get a full pull), and parts arrived for the fuel lines on the 940 carb conversion project. Should be able to drive this thing by the end of the day. If not for work, I'd have had this thing done SIX weeks ago.   Got the jetting sorted out last week. Had a real bad tip-in bog that I couldn't seem to correct. Friggin float height was over 11mm too HIGH! eBay purchase, so no wonder everything is screwed up right out of the box! I ended up with a larger dual-squirt accelerator pump jet anyway instead of the single. Also moved the 70 primary idle jet (4 sizes too big out of the box) to the secondary idle circuit, and installed a 57 in the primary. Runs great on the fuel bottle!    Still using the computer for ignition. Going to drive it first and see if I want to go through the project of installing an intermediate shaft with a distributor drive gear, so I can install a block-mounted distributor and run points, 100% computer free. I should do that anyway just from a simplicity / reliability / tunability standpoint. The electronics left me stranded last year a couple times! I can't tweak the timing to my liking right now because of the computer. Tried twisting the cam-driven distributor already ... and the damned thing just reverts back to where it was! That's infuriating. But if it runs well enough I might save that for next season.   Just driving it in and out of the shop to work on other projects, it feels 1,000% more responsive with the carburetor. Also fires MUCH faster when cranking. Can't wait to drive it and see if I got more than 114 ponies, lolol.   Hopefully these don't go 404 like the last post ... https://postimg.cc/gallery/MjhrmZS   Seems like that site went back to dial-up internet! Maybe they'll fix that some day ...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...