Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi,

 

How can I figure out if the car does have HD towing? I checked several VIN Decoder but they seem to tell always the same tow capacity, no matter what Yukon VIN I do enter.

My 2017 5.3L SLT 4WD does have a Trailer Tow Brake on the left hand side, close to the steering wheel. Is this the ultimate proof of the package? The car doesn't have a VIN sticker (at least I didn't find it...was expecting it in one of the doors) and so I'm completely confused about the towing capacity.
Does anyone know how to figure out with 100% confidence?

Thanks

Edited by xycrazy
Posted
Hi,  

How can I figure out if the car does have HD towing? I checked several VIN Decoder but they seem to tell always the same tow capacity, no matter what Yukon VIN I do enter.

 

My 2017 SLT 4WD does have a Trailer Tow Brake on the left hand side, close to the steering wheel. Is this the ultimate proof of the package? The car doesn't have a VIN sticker (at least I didn't find it...was expecting it in one of the doors) and so I'm completely confused about the towing capacity.

Does anyone know how to figure out with 100% confidence?

 

Thanks

 

 

Check the glove compartment, you will find a sticker with GM RPO codes

Each code represents what feature the car has so you can look it up

 

http://www.dstgateway.com/ACDelcoDocuments/rpoCodes.pdf

  • Like 1
Posted
54 minutes ago, xycrazy said:

Hi,

 

How can I figure out if the car does have HD towing? I checked several VIN Decoder but they seem to tell always the same tow capacity, no matter what Yukon VIN I do enter.

My 2017 5.3L SLT 4WD does have a Trailer Tow Brake on the left hand side, close to the steering wheel. Is this the ultimate proof of the package? The car doesn't have a VIN sticker (at least I didn't find it...was expecting it in one of the doors) and so I'm completely confused about the towing capacity.
Does anyone know how to figure out with 100% confidence?

Thanks

 

 

The factory brake controller is only part of the max trailer package on Tahoe/Yukon.  To verify 100%, open the glovebox and look at the silver SPID label that has all of the build codes for the truck.  Look for codes NHT and GU6.  If you have those for sure, you have the "max trailer" package on your Yukon.  8200bs on 4x4 with 5.3 and 8100lbs with 6.2.    

Posted

Thanks brother! I have both, NHR and GU6. Glad I got it, so towing a 7000+ lbs trailer shouldn’t be a big deal. Thanks guys for your help 

Posted

7,000+ lbs is more than what the truck weighs, you're going to notice that when towing.

 

Getting up to speed, slowing down etc etc is going to take a lot longer. Get a weight distribution hitch if you plan to tow that heavy a lot and always factor in your tongue weight. Don't want to be squating in the back so much that your headlights are pointing to the sky.

Posted
25 minutes ago, xycrazy said:

What do you mean 

Welcome to the site.

 

VIN should be visible through the windshield, bottom left corner, drivers side.

 

What will be in the trailer, need to add that to total weight behind you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...