Need advice: Replace or repair differential

[langston1726]

Looking for some advice with what to do with my 2015 Silverado. At 73000 miles, my pinion and carrier bearings are shot. I believe it has to do with a previous pinion seal replacement under warranty but I’m not sure how to pursue that can of worms. The way I see, I have 3 viable options. Keep in mind, I’d like to keep the truck for a while. 

 

My options are 

1. replace entire diff for $1500 from a low mileage salvage and install it myself with some time in the garage. Sell the old diff to recoup some of the cost.

 

2. Have the dealer replace just the bearings for $1800 ($500 more if it needs a ring and pinion) not mention risk having the truck gone for months .

 

3. have a reputable driveline shop do the repair for $1400 to do the bearings or worst case a ring and pinion for $1750

 

Please let me know your thoughts. I’ve talked myself into and out of all 3. 

[Black02Silverado]

Are you sure the bearings are shot?  Was it run low on fluid?

 

If it was me I would do #3.

[PPK]

bad bearings make a lot of whine... the pinion and ring gear are misaligned.. however.. i would pull the cover before i decided. if the ring gear has a lot of wear - hardening shelling.. then at least you can make an informed decision. if the ring gear is ok... i would just clean everything up.. replace the bearings and seals.. So #4 should be getting the cost of the bearings and seals... 

 

your truck.. while still having a lot of life left in it.. getting to that phase where you try to fix economically.. you don't have to get 300k miles out of the repair..

 

if you are pulling something though.. i would get on ebay and scrap yards and start pricing. and don't drive it in the meantime...

[stevejones]

Get it to Precision Transmissions in Amarillo...I want to see the vid on utube!

[langston1726]

2 hours ago, Black02Silverado said:

Are you sure the bearings are shot?  Was it run low on fluid?

 

If it was me I would do #3.

 

Pretty sure. Constant hum, howl, whine at driveshaft speed. I already took it to the GM dealer just to confirm what I figured it was. The tech agreed it was bearings but didn’t know the extent without opening it up. I told them I wanted it back in one piece until I decided what to do. 

Edited May 4, 2021 by langston1726

[langston1726]

25 minutes ago, PPK said:

bad bearings make a lot of whine... the pinion and ring gear are misaligned.. however.. i would pull the cover before i decided. if the ring gear has a lot of wear - hardening shelling.. then at least you can make an informed decision. if the ring gear is ok... i would just clean everything up.. replace the bearings and seals.. So #4 should be getting the cost of the bearings and seals... 

 

your truck.. while still having a lot of life left in it.. getting to that phase where you try to fix economically.. you don't have to get 300k miles out of the repair..

 

if you are pulling something though.. i would get on ebay and scrap yards and start pricing. and don't drive it in the meantime...

 
I know I could probably do the job in my garage but it’s a little bit more of a mess then I want to get into. I don’t really pull anything with it but would like to keep it around as a forever truck. Whatever route I go, I’d like to not have to deal with it again. 

[Lsgun1]

All of those prices sound steep. I'd do a a whole used rear end, it's easy enough to swap.

[rlcole321]

18 hours ago, Black02Silverado said:

Are you sure the bearings are shot?  Was it run low on fluid?

 

If it was me I would do #3.

Didn't see the answer, if it was run low on gear oil, then there's probably more damaged than you think, if not, then the ring and pinion are probably ok, I'd just do bearing replacement.  with some simple tools, you can do that in your garage (which I've done many times) if you can handle the "Set Up" of backlash and pinion to ring gear "Meshing" (watch YouTube, you may need a shim kit also).

You most likely have a Locker carrier also. (Posi Style)

[Grumpy Bear]

19 hours ago, langston1726 said:

 

1. replace entire diff for $1500 from a low mileage salvage and install it myself with some time in the garage. Sell the old diff to recoup some of the cost.

 

2. Have the dealer replace just the bearings for $1800 ($500 more if it needs a ring and pinion) not mention risk having the truck gone for months .

 

3. have a reputable driveline shop do the repair for $1400 to do the bearings or worst case a ring and pinion for $1750

 

Please let me know your thoughts. I’ve talked myself into and out of all 3. 

 

1.) Is a crap shoot that can go sideways a dozen different ways without recourse. 

 

2.) Dealer price is out of touch and OEM ring and pinions are expensive and he will say..no matter what...it needs replacing. A lot more than a Yukon  or Richmond gear set. 

 

3.) Full on rebuild including ring and pinion but....that price for bearings only? That's nuts. I've been getting full rebuild, parts and labor for less than this guys bearings only including Yukon ring and pinion. 

[langston1726]

Sorry I misspoke. The driveline shop wants $1100 for just bearings, and $1450 for a new AAM ring and pinion plus fresh bearings. Think that’s the route I’m going to go. Cheaper and less hassle then swapping the diffs and as Grumpy said I don’t know exactly what I’m getting with the salvage diff. Thanks for your input guys. I do appreciate it. 

Edited May 4, 2021 by langston1726

[Grumpy Bear]

There is nothing wrong with the Yukon Gear sets and several hundred dollars cheaper. Just pointing it out. 

[langston1726]

Just a quick follow up. I had the driveline shop take care of this. Ended up only needing bearings. They replaced all bearings, seals, and the yoke for $1080. Good as new. Hopefully won’t have to deal with that again for a little while. He did say they put 85w140 gear oil in it which I’m not crazy about since GM calls for 75W85. I’m running almost a 35” tire so it may be better off. 

Edited May 20, 2021 by langston1726

[Black02Silverado]

7 hours ago, langston1726 said:

Just a quick follow up. I had the driveline shop take care of this. Ended up only needing bearings. They replaced all bearings, seals, and the yoke for $1080. Good as new. Hopefully won’t have to deal with that again for a little while. He did say they put 85w140 gear oil in it which I’m not crazy about since GM calls for 75W85. I’m running almost a 35” tire so it may be better off. 

Good to hear.  That thick of weight you don't need.  Won't hurt anything but to me I would switch it out down the road to 75w-90.