Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I moved the shovel to the to the other M.A.P.S. bed panel and mounted a WaterPort to the passenger side panel.  Much to my surprise, when mounted it sits darn near perfectly to the panel and fender.  It pressurized nicely and has held up well so I'm pleased with it thus far.

 

The truck is getting very close to how I imagined it, I just have to finish the winch.

20220126_183118.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...
Posted

Went to Colorado a couple weeks ago and made some big upgrades before leaving. I needed to get my tent up higher so I could close my tonneau cover. I used 1.5x.120" DOM tubing for the new bed rails. They are mounted to the stake pockets, not the bed side so they can be removed with 4 bolts.

 

After a lot of arguing with myself I used the stock running board brackets and 1.75x.120" DOM for a set of rock sliders. This is not a rock crawler but I did bang them on Black Bear Pass and they survived with no body damage.  

20220824_122355.jpg

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 10/10/2022 at 1:10 PM, Robert Peters said:

Not a bad view at 12,000ft. 

2d8c6a5c-6fd4-42b4-936a-3287139a3a71.jpg

 

Now that's a view worth having a truck!!

  • Like 1
Posted
On 8/25/2021 at 7:31 PM, dudleyfj40 said:

I found a "water proof" outlet to for the AC unit.

 

Made a small panel that I can turn on lights from the back or front with my up-fitter switches.

 

Then fabbed up a mount for the AC unit.  

IMG_20210820_124617591_HDR.jpg

IMG_20210815_134750920_HDR.jpg

what AC unit is that???

Posted
On 10/14/2022 at 9:44 PM, pokismoki said:

what AC unit is that???

 

Pretty sure any 5000BTU window AC unit will work.

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...
Posted

Not a cheap option by any means, but I love my FabFours Matrix bumper with prerunner. It affords me 2x 3” cubes on each side (2pair) plus a 30” light bar but is also able to mount a winch. I mounted an open road 13500 winch. Any winch you mount has to relocate the control box if you have a 30” light bar installed but it’s really not that big a deal. I actually prefer having the control box in the engine bay, it’s much higher and I’ve had my whole bumper underwater/mud several times. The control box is the weak point so far as “ipx67 ipx68” is concerned. My box in the engine bay never gets wet, I’d have to screw up big to accomplish that with a 3.5” lift and 35” tires on it.

Posted (edited)

For sale: Snugtop Rebel with windoors, carpeted, auto locks, etc for sale. Standard size bed. Located in mission Viejo, CA. See picture above/below Asking $1900

 

 

IMG_2142.jpeg

IMG_2138.jpeg

Edited by Delson0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.
    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...