Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I would look at the math for each motor.  You drive X miles per year averaging X miles per gallon (guestimate) X the price of each type of fuel = yearly cost.  If the difference is say $500/year = $41/month = $11/week, is that gonna kill you?  You could include the motor price surcharge over, say 5 years (6.2 is ~$2500, so $500/year).  Add that to the yearly cost.  Is the additional $$ for each motor material to you?  What are you actually saving by going with the 3.0 or 5.3?

 

Also, consider the "fun factor" of a 6.2 which you can't quantify but is a factor.

 

My .02.

Edited by cltsig
  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, cltsig said:

I would look at the math for each motor.  You drive X miles per year averaging X miles per gallon (guestimate) X the price of each type of fuel = yearly cost.  If the difference is say $500/year = $41/month = $11/week, is that gonna kill you?  You could include the motor price surcharge over, say 5 years (6.2 is ~$2500, so $500/year).  Add that to the yearly cost.  Is the additional $$ for each motor material to you?  What are you actually saving by going with the 3.0 or 5.3?

 

Also, consider the "fun factor" of a 6.2 which you can't quantify but is a factor.

 

My .02.

Don't forget, the 6.2 is a $2500 upcharge option.  Nothings free, lol!

Never mind, I see you added that in

 

Edited by steelcity
Posted
23 hours ago, ccoon21 said:

Adding the heavier tires that I need for being off-road also concerns me for fuel economy. 

 

Do you really need bigger/wider tires for where you drive to the boat launch or deer camp?

If you are really concerned with fuel economy, I suggest you look for some good tires that are closer to OEM size.

 

The 5.3 with more gears should suffice for everything you need it to do. ( I have a 6 speed 3.42)

If you want the 6.2 just for the "fun factor", that is purely up to you and not a financially driven decision.

Posted
41 minutes ago, aseibel said:

 

Do you really need bigger/wider tires for where you drive to the boat launch or deer camp?

 

 

 

Not so much for the boat launch but some of the deer camp’s roads have parts that can get real sloppy or washout with a little rain, I’m better off having them than not. 

Posted
3 hours ago, ccoon21 said:

I appreciate y’all’s responses. Looks like I still need to do some research. (Kind of surprised not as many people mentioned the 3.0 considering I’ve read a lot about it in other threads)
 

I have driven the AT4 (about 95% sure that’s the trim I’ll be going with) that had the 6.2 in it and to say it was fun to drive would be an understatement. I’m just not sure how practical it is for me at this point though. 

As far as the 3.0 diesel goes I am not all that impressed. My neighbor has one that I drove and it was on par with my 5.3 I had. Off the line it was good, but passing and merging into traffic is where it fell behind. Remember 460tq. but only 277hp. Sure it will get better fuel milage but there is a much higher maintenance cost in Def and oil and fuel filter changes. Don't forget about that water pump belt that needs to be changed at 140,000 miles in which you need to pull the transmission to get to it.

Posted (edited)

I just picked up the 5.3/8 speed elevation. All my driving its stop and go traffic. I get about 17mpg. Not bad considering my Rebel used to do about 14mpg on the same trip.

 

2021_GMC_Sierra_1500_qo6oq.thumb.jpeg.b4ab95461c4044ba071af3a9bf9cad46.jpeg

Edited by dv_damian57
Posted (edited)

I say test drive them all and see what you think.

 

I've got a loaded 21' 3.0 and have been extremely pleased with it so far. Tows my 5K lb. boat like a dream.

My overall fuel economy is ~22.6 mpg.

 

Yes, you will eventually have to have the oil pump belt replaced at 150,000 miles. Yes, you have to add DEF from time to time (not a big deal really).

 

I suspect from my past experiences that the resale on a 3.0 will be worth more than its gas counterparts. Something to consider.

 

A 6.2/10 speed combo would be great fun for sure. I just didn't want to feed that beast.

Edited by SVG
spelling
Posted

Something else to consider is the drive train warranty on the diesel is 5yr/100K miles vs 60k miles on the gas.

 

Posted (edited)

Have 2021 Silverado Z71 6.2 10 speed 3:23 gears, Just pulled my trailer 1500lb steel trailer with a 2007 5000lb. 1500 over 200 miles and avg. was 13-14mpg mix highway and back roads.

 

Truck alone I average 20mpg 

Edited by WeGone
Posted

DEF is a non-issue.

If mileage matters I ran a 2015 6.2L 8spd and a 2016 5.3L NHT 8spd to dping the same job as current 3.0L 10 spd.

It has tow mirrors, like an NHT did, but NHT and tow mirrors are now separate options.  And NHT is not available on 3.0L. 

I log fuel purchases.  The '15 and '16 both got between 20 and 21 mpg -- when tracked by the tankful.

 

Purchase truck last fall.

 

I was planning to wait until I got the def empty message, but had to make a trip far enough from home territory that I made the decision to go to a bulk pump and fill the def tank.

 

DEF gauge had the small led and one full size led on. Book for 3.0L says this means 4 gallons can be added.
iDash said it was at 10% remaining. Math says that means 90% x 5.3 = 4.77 gal can be added.

 

Last filled at a bulk pump at 733 miles. This time 8674 miles.
7941mi between fills.

Pumped 20.89 L for C$18.78

 

This is about 5.52 USgal (yes, more than it is rated to hold) and about US$15.00.

 

I suspect, but don't know for sure, that the rated tank size and the size iDash uses does not include the fill tube, which I think was filled before the nozzle on the bulk pump kicks out.

 

7941mi /5.52gal = 1438 mpg def.
$15/7941mi = US$0.0018 per mile.

 

Truck has run 26.5 usmpg over same miles. 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Since the 5.3 is out, 3.0 diesel IMO.  And that's even considering maint. costs.  Fuel savings alone over 5 years is huge.  Plus it ticks your commute and if your trailers are say 8000lbs or less it can tow them non issue.   

 

The 6.2 really truly loves 93.  Can you run it on less?  Sure, but your performance and mileage will hurt.  

 

Here's a nice shot using the AT4 in 3.0, 5.3 and 6.2 form:

fecol.thumb.png.ee5ab7eae3f65effa2a81273b81215da.png

 

$6,250 MORE in fuel over the 3.0 over 5 years.  About $1200 a year more.  Even if you factored in say $70 oil change/rotation every 6,000mi for gas engine, and $100 every 6,000mi for the 3.0 diesel and heck, even DEF, the diesel would still be cheaper.  And the initial purchase price will be less than the 6.2.  

Edited by newdude
Posted
On 7/15/2021 at 5:00 PM, newdude said:

Since the 5.3 is out, 3.0 diesel IMO.  And that's even considering maint. costs.  Fuel savings alone over 5 years is huge.  Plus it ticks your commute and if your trailers are say 8000lbs or less it can tow them non issue.   

 

The 6.2 really truly loves 93.  Can you run it on less?  Sure, but your performance and mileage will hurt.  

 

Here's a nice shot using the AT4 in 3.0, 5.3 and 6.2 form:

fecol.thumb.png.ee5ab7eae3f65effa2a81273b81215da.png

 

$6,250 MORE in fuel over the 3.0 over 5 years.  About $1200 a year more.  Even if you factored in say $70 oil change/rotation every 6,000mi for gas engine, and $100 every 6,000mi for the 3.0 diesel and heck, even DEF, the diesel would still be cheaper.  And the initial purchase price will be less than the 6.2.  

I like that graphic. What website is that on?

Posted
13 minutes ago, ccoon21 said:

I like that graphic. What website is that on?

 

17 minutes ago, ccoon21 said:

I like that graphic. What website is that on?

Thanks. I bought it on ebay. There are 3 different styles and a few color options as well. 

Screenshot_20210722-112712_Chrome.jpg

20210428_150656.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...