Jump to content

Adding Power fold Mirrors to your T1 truck without the memory package

Aaaaaaaayush
 Share

Recommended Posts

DasGoob Enthusiast

DasGoob

Posted
Posted

Well I liked your posts more than a teenage girl likes Taylor Swift, but the beers will need to wait until I am in TX next.  :)

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
  • 8 months later...
  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Aaaaaaaayush
Aaaaaaaayush

I found a cheap pair of T1 Power folding mirrors on 1AAUTO (NON OEM) that are meant just as a replacement to the OEM Memory Package mirrors, obviously I don't have the memory package but I really want

Aaaaaaaayush
Aaaaaaaayush

The pins from the BCM are going straight to the drivers door actuator(solenoid), these are the actual High Low signals for the actuator, no relay needed.   I did this so that I can unlock an

Aaaaaaaayush
Aaaaaaaayush

Seriously! Or at least some likes on my posts 😂

Posted Images

Timothy Lee Enthusiast

Timothy Lee

Posted
Posted

This is exactly what I have been looking for. Can you provide a wiring diagram for this modification. I plan to install this mod and some of your description is hard to follow. I would appreciate any help you can provide.

Aaaaaaaayush Enthusiast

Aaaaaaaayush

Posted
  • Author
Posted
20 minutes ago, Timothy Lee said:

I DEVELOPED THE ATTACHED WIRING DIAGRAM BASED ON YOR DESCRIPTION .  CAN YOU VERIFY THIS IS CORRECT?

361A0CC5-EC14-432C-BE9A-EEAED1FCAEA0.jpeg

This is correct, here are the connector end views so you know where the pins are.

image.thumb.png.4365b1f69c129fe1c74f4744d2cd376c.pngimage.thumb.png.8e989c9b4f1936d989e63670203730b6.png

 

 

image.thumb.png.5974afe60fd9547cf8436e7ef154ff64.pngimage.thumb.png.d6498755a7f4094df634c3fca04571ac.png

Timothy Lee Enthusiast

Timothy Lee

Posted
Posted

Thanks. Do you have driver door switch connector view?Also where did you find the connector info. A couple of other items are the door switch you identify is not the same one I purchased.  Yours had only two window switches where mine has 4. I would also like to know how you were able to get the puddle/bubble light working.  The mirrors i purchased also have the turn signal light do you have any info on how to make them work. Thanks again for your assistance.  I know there are quite a few people that would love to have this information. We need to find a way to get it out to the masses.

  • 2 weeks later...
Timothy Lee Enthusiast

Timothy Lee

Posted
Posted

Aaaaaaaaayush,

 

I really need help. I am in the middle of the installation with everything apart and have every thing wired up but it does not work.  Even the lock/unlock from my key fob does not work. The only thing in this setup that may be incorrect is the switch. But i would think the remote lock unlock should work even if the switch is not correct or not wired. I did not purchase the same door switch as you because the one you specified was for 2 windows only and I have 4. I purchased one that had 4 window switches but it does not work with the mirrors.  Looking at the pin arrangement I can see it is different from the original. Can you provide a switch with 4 window switches and the mirror switch that has the pin setup in the attached picture. Obviously it would need to have the 12 and 22 pins this witch does not.

169C096C-3F38-4A6A-96F1-60894D5BD3EC.jpeg

Aaaaaaaayush Enthusiast

Aaaaaaaayush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The door switches communicate using a canbus or GM LAN connection. When i changed my switch it did not work, not a single function. I tried many different things including soldering wires to the pad for the mirror fold button, but was not able to make a relay circuit that stayed on long enough to fold or unfold the mirrors. I did give up on the door switch and put my old one back. 

 

Aaaaaaaayush Enthusiast

Aaaaaaaayush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Check the basics first, make sure you have 12v power. Put a 12v light or a multi meter on the door lock supply you are using from the BCM and make sure you're getting power when pressing lock and unlock, also check the mirrors, using a 12v supply power the motors directly make sure they are actuating.

Timothy Lee Enthusiast

Timothy Lee

Posted
Posted

I just tried to call. I did check continuity for all the wires will check mirror. Not sure how to verify 12 volts from BCM.

  • 3 weeks later...
dristau77 New Member

dristau77

Posted
Posted

Oh man Aaaaaaaayush!! This is the post I've been looking for to give me hope that I can add power folding to my 2020 Trail Boss LT. If you have a minute, I have a couple questions about your install:

1) Mirrors fold in and out only from key fob activation, you're not using the panel button?

2) Does the heating and all other controls still work without issue?

3) Were you able to get the perimeter lighting working or did you already have the safety package that enabled it? If you didn't have the package previously, did you do anything special to get that lighting to work?

4) Does the blind spot indicator need anything additional to work, or is that all built into the mirror?

 

I never even thought about using a separate power fold controller. I wonder if the aux button panel I've seen some people install would be able to activate the fold/unfold function instead of the door panel one. Thank you for your post, as I won't have to figure out how to do the memory seats now (hopefully).

 

Dave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • mysery1
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By mysery1 · Posted

      I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • FiLo
      5.3 / 6.2 valve covers / oil burning

      By FiLo · Posted

      Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • Deadwood
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Deadwood · Posted

      I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • Deadwood
      10L1000 anyone with High Mileage ? I hate Damocles....

      By Deadwood · Posted

      New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • swathdiver
      6 Speed vs 8 Speed

      By swathdiver · Posted

      At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...