Jump to content

Performance Spark Plug Wires

SARNCAN

By SARNCAN
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

SARNCAN Enthusiast

SARNCAN

Posted
Posted

Hello

I am trying to figure out which spark plug wires fit my engine, but I couldn’t figure it out.

Mine is 2018 Tahoe Premier 5.3L

I was looking for Accel (part# 9059C) & MSD (part# MSD33829), but for both, some websites claims that it will not fit!

Can someone confirms which may fit so I can buy.

I am welling to use ACDelco sparks plugs

Thanks

 

https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/spark_plug_wires/accel_ceramic_boot_spark_plug_wires/parts/9059C
 

https://www.amazon.com/MSD-33829-Spark-Plug-Wire/dp/B01FV3GR3O

M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted (edited)

 The oe wires are best, same goes for plugs. CSP swapped in msd wires on a C7 build and they lost 40 something horsepower compared to acdelco. The msd's had no damage and were functioning properly. Apparently its not all about resistance.

 

Stay away from Granatelli. Any company that sells a ported maf sensor should be avoided like covid-19! 

Edited by M1ck3y
ftwhite Enthusiast

ftwhite

Posted
Posted

This is the MSD size that fit my old 2014 5.3L engine:

# 33829

 

I am running Taylor wires now on my Silverado which I like a lot. Better than MSD. part number is:

# 79613 

 

I personally don't like the factory wires or plugs. I find both fail way too soon. Replaced every set on over 5 GM trucks before the warrantee ran out usually. Always been happy with the results, and always found the factory sets in bad shape in as little as 40k miles. Would never buy them. I have heard that too low a resistance can lead to misfires, but have not had that issue with the Taylors.   

pokismoki Senior Enthusiast

pokismoki

Posted
Posted (edited)

 need resistance in the wires and in the spark plugs, otherwise the coil doesnt charge up fully, you'll get weaker spark. the resistor is apart of the engineering, by holding back the energy until it blows it's load so to speak.. and its needed for noise suppresion so not to interfere with the ecu , radio, bcm, etc..

 

a points distributer likes low resistance, because its all mechanical and takes time to transfer spark thru the ignition, HEI is different

Edited by pokismoki
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, pokismoki said:

 need resistance in the wires and in the spark plugs, otherwise the coil doesnt charge up fully,

 

Spark happens AFTER the coil is charged. Coil near plug systems so have more than enough time to charge...fully. Not one coil per eight but eight coils per eight. Coils fail to charge fully when the time between sparks is less than the rise time of the coil. If what was being said were true then coil on plug systems would not work at all. Right? 

 

This is basic Ohms' Law once the system 'asks' for the spark. 

 

Spiral wound wires provide more than enough suppression IF the wrap per inch is high enough. 

  • Like 1
pokismoki Senior Enthusiast

pokismoki

Posted
Posted (edited)

why does Honda use a resister plug on their single cylinder thumper dirtbike motors??

 

if the resister suppresses current, does this mean it improves the voltage spark?

 

this was informative for me..

 

Edited by pokismoki
pokismoki Senior Enthusiast

pokismoki

Posted
Posted
On 9/2/2021 at 6:42 PM, M1ck3y said:

 The oe wires are best, same goes for plugs. CSP swapped in msd wires on a C7 build and they lost 40 something horsepower compared to acdelco.

 

40 Hp wow, is it possible they are giving off so much noise it's effecting the ignition timing. those wires might be designed for Magneto ignition and not HEI COP style

M1ck3y Senior Enthusiast

M1ck3y

Posted
Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, pokismoki said:

40 Hp wow, is it possible they are giving off so much noise it's effecting the ignition timing. those wires might be designed for Magneto ignition and not HEI COP style

 

They were the wires MSD specd for the LT1/l86 etc. It was a high horsepower build. I imagine the difference on a stock engine would be minimal.  

 

When I have time I'll try and find the video on YouTube again.

 

*Edit*

 

The focus of the video wasn't about how the msd's lost power so I can't search for it and pull it up. Way too many videos to go through. If someone has an interest in hunting it down, the video was done by complete street performance.

 

Edited by M1ck3y
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
On 9/3/2021 at 11:38 PM, pokismoki said:

why does Honda use a resister plug on their single cylinder thumper dirtbike motors??

 

if the resister suppresses current, does this mean it improves the voltage spark?

 

this was informative for me..

 

 

Current is energy. Voltage is potential. You light a fire with energy. A few millijoules. About 17 millijoules will get it done if everything is perfect. It rarely is. You jump the gap with voltage. Want more voltage increase the gap. Takes about a thousand volts per thousandths of an inch of gap in free air.  What has more resistance than air? Just because a coil can put out 50K volts doesn't mean it will. It will put up what it needs to jump the gap. Not a volt more or less.   

 

Older English bikes used carbon/cotton wires and non resistor plugs and some dismally weak coils. Kettering ignitions are not bothered by noise. Honda's electronic systems are. They could use a suppression wire or plug but both is never required. They became popular in cars when AM radio got to be a big thing. 

 

Honda cars. The 4's anyway are coil on plug. There is no wire thus no resistance that is not provided by the plug. By present argument these motors shouldn't run should they? 😉 

 

Read the Magnacore link M1ck3y6 provided. 

 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • diyer2
      Oil Consumption

      By diyer2 · Posted

      I have changed oil and filter for years by starting a cold engine to warm oil up, let it run 5-10 minutes depending on temperature. Drain until it starts dripping, refill with quantity from owners manual or get it close.   
    • Chuck FB
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I changed the factory fill oil in the rear diff of my truck for the first time today and the miles is close to 9000 on the truck. There was a lot of fines on the magnet, a very thick layer but working it through my fingers it all felt like mush and as most know it appears like graphite, so no surprise chunks anyway. Certainly was time to do it from my thinking and could have been done sooner but the oil didn't look awful but sure wasn't new looking and never expected it to either. I did use some solvent to help me clean out the bottom area of the axle housing, just get any other stuff settled at the bottom washed and wiped out of the housing for the bit of effort it takes. I used Amsoil Severe Gear 75W90 in the easy packs to try out what they are like and I used up 4 packs and didn't spill much at all in the process but did take all four of the packs and go to the work bench and emptied them into a measuring container and there certainly was some in them that added up to something, then poured that into one of the easy packs and squirted in what I could get out of it. I would say the level is within 1/8th of an inch of being level with the threads at the fill plug so just the perfect amount. Once again, more than what GM says the fill volume is but computes with what others are adding to their rear diffs as well. 
    • Chuck FB
      Oil Consumption

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      So speaking of oil consumption with my L8T as I just changed the oil yesterday and made the switch over to Amsoil SS 0W-40 from the Mobil 1  5W-30 Truck and SUV I just dropped out. 2900 miles on that oil as well as  68 hours on that oil ( so used to equipment with an hour meter and that becomes valuable information to compare with others as well ). Once again the oil use was so very little, I am going to say it dropped under 1/16 of an inch on the dipstick. No towing was done and this interval was from early spring until now.    One interesting item to note is that going by the 5 quart jugs I was using before from Mobil, it was showing that I was putting in 8 US quarts to bring it to full if not slightly over the full mark according to their jug markings. Granted I did allow more drain time this time and in part because the engine oil was only lukewarm as I started it and let it idle and not for long enough to get the oil itself hot ( the engine was up to operating temp ). The oil in that state just seemed to take forever for it to drip out but not only at the drain plug but at the oil filter housing as well, perhaps I had never quite gotten all the oil out before and I could have still waited longer but as it was I waited well over 3 hours. I think next time if I have the time I will do an experiment by dropping the oil and lets say leave the pan under it for 15 minutes, then switch to another pail and let it drip out overnight and measure how much more oil comes out. So this time and yes I ended up getting it just over the full mark as I was experimenting with trying to get the level to the add mark after I had run it and then waited some and then added a bit and waited for a certain amount of time for it to settle to the add mark. I very well may not have waited long enough for that experiment but I got to the add mark, then dumped in a full quart and waited some and checked and then waited some more and it crept up more ... and then finally oops, it was slightly over full some hours later when it really had settled all it would. I find this engine sure takes time for the last bit of oil that gets poured in to finally make its way into the crank case. I can only guess at how much too much I added as per maybe a 1/10th of a quart. I had poured in 8.5 quarts going by the quart containers as per 8 quarts and 16 us ounces. I was shocked at how much this was off compared to the prior oil changes and if those larger jugs and they are not marked accurately enough or they contain slightly more than what they say, or the drain time factor made that much of a difference. But I know on this forum there have been others who have said they have put well over 8 quarts in their L8T and now I have also going by the Amsoil true quart containers. Its a confusing convoluted mess up here in Canada with some oil manufactures packaging is in true US quarts, some is also in true US quarts containers on an even number of quarts but also marked in liters which becomes the odd ball volume of a fractional amount of liters. Then there is the Liters only containers, no US markings as its a true metric container and only measured in Liters to an even number of Liters. But remember we used to have Imperial Gallons and Imperial quarts as well !. 
    • Atlas
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Atlas · Posted

      Holy smokes. Clearly not a deal on that truck. I just mean in general, matte or painted trim is becoming more normative than chrome, but I know the Black Optics packages on various vehicles are being sold as uplevel trims. They look really good, but sheesh. It's just paint and plastic.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I Wouldn't Know Where to Begin    Oh I know where I would begin but I'm just one of over eight billion people on this rock. Eight billion versions of where the goal post is. How large it should be. How far to kick from. What ball is the right ball. Elevation. Age.....are you getting the point? It isn't about disagreeing with one individual. It's about agreeing only with one individual. One's self.   Agreement comes when multiple people hold the same point already. THAT is the goal of an education. Building the Social Contract. That thing that allows us to all read this sentence. We've agreed on the alphabet and how to arrange those letters into words we agree upon whose meanings hold true for everyone entering into that contract. Those words arranged into a sentence form an idea and several sentences strung together in a paragraph convey an argument for or against or inform the reader of a state, condition or perhaps reveal a things nature. Paint a word picture. Make oneself known.    This contract is not limited to words although they are often explained by words. Things like numbers and their usefulness. Physics, Chemistry, Medicine, Music, Art and so on.    The frequency of middle C (C4) is 261.63 Hz is a first principle. We build on that to make music we all can enjoy even if we all can not compose or play. You don't have to master it to make it enjoyable and useful.    So why is the Beginning so difficult? Why is agreement so elusive?   Everyone "Signs" the contract (when receiving that education in obtaining it)  but fewer and fewer in this world have any intention of living by that contract. They find exploiting that contract more advantageous. Disruption. With intent. Without intent. In Ignorance. In your face. With a double dog dare you. With a hold my beer. In resistance to that contract and in spite how it looks on us. It permeates the very air we breath.    In this way the contract is subject to advantage. Abide by it when it serves you, disregard it when it doesn't. Unpredictable and self-serving. Corrosive.....Toxic........   It says a lot about a persons character to disregard the contract, the truth, first principles. None of it good.        ********************************************************   https://medicine.yale.edu/news-article/character-vs-personality-who-we-are-and-who-we-aspire-to-be/   Just an interesting article.   

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...