Jump to content

2020 Rear Pad Replacement

Jasoned
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jasoned Enthusiast

Jasoned

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys. Looking for a little bit of information as I have been unable to find anything definitive  through my many searches. I have a 2020 1/2 ton and I am replacing the rear brake pads and wondering if it’s possible to do myself. I’ve always replaced my own pads yet with the electronic parking brake there seems to be an issue, GM says I need a scan tool to release the caliper piston and I’m just wondering if there’s another way around this. Tia

Edited by Jasoned
Jasoned Enthusiast

Jasoned

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Because rear brakes are garbage on these trucks, completely worn out after 19,000 km. If you read up on it it’s a very common issue, both sides are worn evenly left to right. 
I did finally find an article on how to do this the EPB needs to be removed with the battery disconnected and then you are able to manually back the piston stop out and then compress the piston. A few extra steps but it is doable only problem is the brake wear monitor needs to be reset with a scan tool, total money grab for GM. 

kodiakdenali Enthusiast

kodiakdenali

Posted
Posted

Wow. I didn't realize it was such a pain.

The wear indicator can't be reset by the owner? It can be turned off completely, for years I used a portable wear indicator called flashlight 🙂 always worked great!

 

My truck has around 10,000km...rear brake pads are at 96%. are you sure your brakes are in proper working order?

  • Like 1
TxTruckMan Senior Enthusiast

TxTruckMan

Posted
Posted

I've never had a truck need new brakes prior to 100k miles.  I'd bring it to the dealer for warranty if you think the pads are worn that quickly.

 

There was a comment I read in a thread where the brake wear indicator screen was incorrect and had to be updated.  Maybe that's the problem?

Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 9/14/2021 at 8:39 PM, Jasoned said:

Because rear brakes are garbage on these trucks, completely worn out after 19,000 km. If you read up on it it’s a very common issue, both sides are worn evenly left to right. 
I did finally find an article on how to do this the EPB needs to be removed with the battery disconnected and then you are able to manually back the piston stop out and then compress the piston. A few extra steps but it is doable only problem is the brake wear monitor needs to be reset with a scan tool, total money grab for GM. 

 

Make sure that before you start the battery is disconnected to prevent the brake master cylinder from pressurizing the hydraulic system during its automated self diagnostic tests that can possibly occur when a door is opened or the key transmitter is activated. 

 

On the T1's, the brake wear sensor should be replaced with every brake pad change.  The wear percentage can be reset from the driver's interface but it is the parking brake that sometimes needs to be recalibrated and that would need to be done with a scan tool. However, if you dont have a scan tool, a procedure I found online, but have not verified yet, is as follows:

 

 

  1. With the ignition ON, apply and hold the brake pedal.
  2. Push and hold the EPB switch down for 5-6 seconds.
  3. Release the EPB switch.
  4. Momentarily push the EPB switch down.
  5. Remove the EPB MODULE fuse and reinstall.
  6. Apply the EPB.
  7. Release the EPB.

For removal of the brake pads:

  • DO NOT use any air tools to remove or install the guide pin bolts. Use hand tools ONLY.
  • Install an open end wrench to hold the caliper guide pin in line with the brake caliper while removing or installing caliper guide pin bolt. DO NOT allow the open end wrench to come in contact with the brake caliper. Allowing the open end wrench to come in contact with the brake caliper will cause a pulsation when the brakes are applied.

 

Edited by Gangly
  • 2 weeks later...
lebag335 Enthusiast

lebag335

Posted
Posted
On 9/26/2021 at 3:23 AM, Transient said:

Wow!  This may be the first vehicle I own that I won't be replacing the brakes on when it comes time.

 

No way I'm doing that either!  Unbelievably complicated.  Ugh...

Acpantera Enthusiast

Acpantera

Posted
Posted

I don't think it's that big of a deal. With the parking brake off, disconnect the wires to the caliper, remove the EPB motor from the caliper, turn the coupler that the motor meshes with clockwise till it stops, compress the caliper piston and replace the pads. After assembling, pump the brakes up, cycle the EPB a few times and carry on.

  • Like 1
Gangly Senior Enthusiast

Gangly

Posted
Posted
On 9/28/2021 at 3:27 PM, Acpantera said:

I don't think it's that big of a deal. With the parking brake off, disconnect the wires to the caliper, remove the EPB motor from the caliper, turn the coupler that the motor meshes with clockwise till it stops, compress the caliper piston and replace the pads. After assembling, pump the brakes up, cycle the EPB a few times and carry on.

Yup, sounds a lot more in depth than it actually is.  

  • 3 years later...
Steve Chevy New Member

Steve Chevy

Posted
Posted

 GM has published technical service bulletin in March 2023 titled “Rapid Rear Brake Pad Wear” (21-NA-089) and it acknowledges the rear brake problem in 2020 - 2021 Chevrolet Silverados and mentions that they are now installing a shield to prevent road grime build up a calipers. Concludes that it’s not a safety issue so no recall, but essentially recommends that customers wash their brakes and it’s customer maintenance? It a new maintenance recommendation, but not included in the service manual!  Strange as GM does not spend money on an engineering change if there isn’t a problem.  Now you need to replace rotors with every brake job! Could calipers be next!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
    • rdonarski
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By rdonarski · Posted

      This landing is worse than most. Patchy blacktop with washouts, soft gravel/sand at bottom that washes out with every heavy rain. I tell everyone to put it in 4WD. A lot of them think they can pull out their trailer in 2WD. They end up digging a hole and then putting it in 4WD.  The lake is a pristine lake and has a lot of money on it. There are several wake boats and lot of large tritoons. The people with the money don't want it improved because they don't want more traffic.    Boat Landing 1.jfif Boat Landing 2.jfif Boat Landing 3.jfif
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      How wide are your rims?   Toyo specs 8.5-10.0-11.0 inches. My thought would be rim might be pulling the tire inwards creating a center that is more pronounced.    I also noticed that the spec sheet says max 65psi. So you could be right lowering the pressure to ~40 psi. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...